Stereo options
Call me BIG daddy on the cell
05-08-2008, 10:09 PM
#12
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05-08-2008, 10:49 PM
#13
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No!
Dealer is WRONG. In a car, typically heat is less of an issue. When you are sitting in the sun all day, in 100 degree heat, a single amplifier will generate way too much heat. A five channel amp will get very hot running 2 separate types of speakers due to voltage differential. To maximize efficiency and heat reduction, ideally each amp should only be running one type of speaker, at close to the same level.
As an audio shop owner, I always recommend at the least dual amp setups in boats. They run much cooler, and this is the key to longevity, and no shut downs at the cove.
Move air!! You can buy slightly larger versions of the fans used in compters at most radio supply houses. I will typically install a couple of these (one in, one out) if the rig is going under the seat, or inside an enclosed hatch or something down in the cuddy. AIR FLOW is the key to keeping the units alive. Of couse, liquid cooling is better if you can afford it! Most majors make marine versions of their products, which feature corrosion resistant mosfets, blah blah.
For 2000 bucks, here's the system I would install myself...(not counting labor)! Without seeing your boat, I can't say for sure. But quality is more important than quantity...you are not going to be able to hear shizz at WOT anyway!!
Amps:
1. JL Audio M(marine)6450 running 6 speakers at 45w each
2. JL Audio M 1400 running one 4 ohm, 12 inch sub, in a sealed box (if it will fit)
Speakers:
3 pair total Kicker KF620 in the gunwales, cuddy, and rear seat box. They sound incredible, and the grilles are killer too. You can get components if you want, but in the boat, there is tons of wind, wave noise, etc that pretty much make everything sound like crap. Again, the marine verisions typically feature plastic cones which will not get wet and de-laminate...very important! I actually prefer 6x9's for under the rear seat, and to really do this boat right, I would spend a few extra dollaz and get another 6450 if you can...and a good pair of 6x9's! Now THAT rig would blast.
Head:
Clarion CMD4...about 170 refurbed, and a bad azz little unit
Sub:
Kicker comp cvx12..put it in a little sealed box, and BAM
Theres a million and ten ways to do a rig, but for only $2000, i feel this system will sound great for you, and last for years. I would stay away from the cheap shizz, like sony and etc...
As an audio shop owner, I always recommend at the least dual amp setups in boats. They run much cooler, and this is the key to longevity, and no shut downs at the cove.
Move air!! You can buy slightly larger versions of the fans used in compters at most radio supply houses. I will typically install a couple of these (one in, one out) if the rig is going under the seat, or inside an enclosed hatch or something down in the cuddy. AIR FLOW is the key to keeping the units alive. Of couse, liquid cooling is better if you can afford it! Most majors make marine versions of their products, which feature corrosion resistant mosfets, blah blah.
For 2000 bucks, here's the system I would install myself...(not counting labor)! Without seeing your boat, I can't say for sure. But quality is more important than quantity...you are not going to be able to hear shizz at WOT anyway!!
Amps:
1. JL Audio M(marine)6450 running 6 speakers at 45w each
2. JL Audio M 1400 running one 4 ohm, 12 inch sub, in a sealed box (if it will fit)
Speakers:
3 pair total Kicker KF620 in the gunwales, cuddy, and rear seat box. They sound incredible, and the grilles are killer too. You can get components if you want, but in the boat, there is tons of wind, wave noise, etc that pretty much make everything sound like crap. Again, the marine verisions typically feature plastic cones which will not get wet and de-laminate...very important! I actually prefer 6x9's for under the rear seat, and to really do this boat right, I would spend a few extra dollaz and get another 6450 if you can...and a good pair of 6x9's! Now THAT rig would blast.
Head:
Clarion CMD4...about 170 refurbed, and a bad azz little unit
Sub:
Kicker comp cvx12..put it in a little sealed box, and BAM
Theres a million and ten ways to do a rig, but for only $2000, i feel this system will sound great for you, and last for years. I would stay away from the cheap shizz, like sony and etc...
05-08-2008, 11:10 PM
#15
Charter Member # 55
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Get an Alpine PDX 5 amp. The use less power, make less heat, and are very compact
4x75watts and either 2x150 or 1X300 for the sub is the standard rating. The actual test watts will come in higher.
Also, clarion M475 head unit. Does more than a CDM4 and si $150 or less new.
4x75watts and either 2x150 or 1X300 for the sub is the standard rating. The actual test watts will come in higher.
Also, clarion M475 head unit. Does more than a CDM4 and si $150 or less new.
05-08-2008, 11:12 PM
#16
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Just installed a whole new system in mine. Went with 4 JL Audio M-650's, 1 JL Audio 10"sub, Clarion M475 head unit all powered by a Memphis Belle 16-MAD600 five channel amp. 55 watts x 4/ 100 x 1 RMS at 4 ohlms.
True, the sub setup will not match my SVS 12" cylinder sub in the home theatre but from what I've heard so far, I'm pretty impressed for open air. Nice rich sound. Solid bass. Total cost with install (all legit dealers with factory warranties) $1550.00
True, the sub setup will not match my SVS 12" cylinder sub in the home theatre but from what I've heard so far, I'm pretty impressed for open air. Nice rich sound. Solid bass. Total cost with install (all legit dealers with factory warranties) $1550.00
Last edited by Ryan8886; 05-08-2008 at 11:14 PM.
05-09-2008, 07:18 AM
#19
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Dealer is WRONG. In a car, typically heat is less of an issue. When you are sitting in the sun all day, in 100 degree heat, a single amplifier will generate way too much heat. A five channel amp will get very hot running 2 separate types of speakers due to voltage differential. To maximize efficiency and heat reduction, ideally each amp should only be running one type of speaker, at close to the same level.
As an audio shop owner, I always recommend at the least dual amp setups in boats. They run much cooler, and this is the key to longevity, and no shut downs at the cove.
Move air!! You can buy slightly larger versions of the fans used in compters at most radio supply houses. I will typically install a couple of these (one in, one out) if the rig is going under the seat, or inside an enclosed hatch or something down in the cuddy. AIR FLOW is the key to keeping the units alive. Of couse, liquid cooling is better if you can afford it! Most majors make marine versions of their products, which feature corrosion resistant mosfets, blah blah.
For 2000 bucks, here's the system I would install myself...(not counting labor)! Without seeing your boat, I can't say for sure. But quality is more important than quantity...you are not going to be able to hear shizz at WOT anyway!!
Amps:
1. JL Audio M(marine)6450 running 6 speakers at 45w each
2. JL Audio M 1400 running one 4 ohm, 12 inch sub, in a sealed box (if it will fit)
Speakers:
3 pair total Kicker KF620 in the gunwales, cuddy, and rear seat box. They sound incredible, and the grilles are killer too. You can get components if you want, but in the boat, there is tons of wind, wave noise, etc that pretty much make everything sound like crap. Again, the marine verisions typically feature plastic cones which will not get wet and de-laminate...very important! I actually prefer 6x9's for under the rear seat, and to really do this boat right, I would spend a few extra dollaz and get another 6450 if you can...and a good pair of 6x9's! Now THAT rig would blast.
Head:
Clarion CMD4...about 170 refurbed, and a bad azz little unit
Sub:
Kicker comp cvx12..put it in a little sealed box, and BAM
Theres a million and ten ways to do a rig, but for only $2000, i feel this system will sound great for you, and last for years. I would stay away from the cheap shizz, like sony and etc...
As an audio shop owner, I always recommend at the least dual amp setups in boats. They run much cooler, and this is the key to longevity, and no shut downs at the cove.
Move air!! You can buy slightly larger versions of the fans used in compters at most radio supply houses. I will typically install a couple of these (one in, one out) if the rig is going under the seat, or inside an enclosed hatch or something down in the cuddy. AIR FLOW is the key to keeping the units alive. Of couse, liquid cooling is better if you can afford it! Most majors make marine versions of their products, which feature corrosion resistant mosfets, blah blah.
For 2000 bucks, here's the system I would install myself...(not counting labor)! Without seeing your boat, I can't say for sure. But quality is more important than quantity...you are not going to be able to hear shizz at WOT anyway!!
Amps:
1. JL Audio M(marine)6450 running 6 speakers at 45w each
2. JL Audio M 1400 running one 4 ohm, 12 inch sub, in a sealed box (if it will fit)
Speakers:
3 pair total Kicker KF620 in the gunwales, cuddy, and rear seat box. They sound incredible, and the grilles are killer too. You can get components if you want, but in the boat, there is tons of wind, wave noise, etc that pretty much make everything sound like crap. Again, the marine verisions typically feature plastic cones which will not get wet and de-laminate...very important! I actually prefer 6x9's for under the rear seat, and to really do this boat right, I would spend a few extra dollaz and get another 6450 if you can...and a good pair of 6x9's! Now THAT rig would blast.
Head:
Clarion CMD4...about 170 refurbed, and a bad azz little unit
Sub:
Kicker comp cvx12..put it in a little sealed box, and BAM
Theres a million and ten ways to do a rig, but for only $2000, i feel this system will sound great for you, and last for years. I would stay away from the cheap shizz, like sony and etc...
05-09-2008, 08:00 AM
#20
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Speaker placement is key if you do a lot of boat hopping like we do in the midwest. My new system this year sounds great if you are either in the boat or on the swim step/swim pad, however when jumping from boat to boat i lose a lot of volume thus having to turn volume way up to get the sound out of the boat. It does sound very clear when running up and down the lake though. I have a RF power series amps pushing 1 pair rev components front cockpit, 1 pair rev coax rear cockpit, 1 pair rev coax bow, and 2 10" free air kickers under rear seat. You can see in the pictures how the speaker placement couldn't get any lower, great for sound quality and imaging but terrible for boat hopping. I spent a little over a thousand installing myself.
