Need a special bravo shift cable
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Need a special bravo shift cable
I'm running a stern jack on my boat and the barrel nut on the end keeps breaking off. I'ts very hard to repair if you can at all. Does any one know if mercruiser make a cable that is 12" longer than stock length? Land a Sea quit production and don't have any left.
The current cable is 985mm(78 3/16")long with a 1/4 barrel/plug on the end. The last 17" of the cable is steel rod not cable. Any ideas or sources would be appreciated.
The current cable is 985mm(78 3/16")long with a 1/4 barrel/plug on the end. The last 17" of the cable is steel rod not cable. Any ideas or sources would be appreciated.
#3
Registered
#4
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
I don't see how a standard lower cable won't be long enough. I have 12" stelling boxes and my engines are jackshafted forward another foot. Just had a lower shift cable replaced and it was long enough.
#5
Registered
iTrader: (1)
A Stern Jack mounts between the gimble housing and the drive..
The shift cable connects in the stock location but the nut that holds the cable on the gimble housing end is replaced with an 8" extension tube so only the inner cable needs to be extended, not the whole thing, so moving where the shift contol is mounted won't help......
(I just installed my Stern Jack last weekend )
Doug
The shift cable connects in the stock location but the nut that holds the cable on the gimble housing end is replaced with an 8" extension tube so only the inner cable needs to be extended, not the whole thing, so moving where the shift contol is mounted won't help......
(I just installed my Stern Jack last weekend )
Doug
#7
Registered
I have one but I need it when I put my stern-jack back on, which leads me to a question about universals. I had a 98 Bravo III and I blew it. 6PSI on a built 7.4. I bought a new 2006 Bravo III with a different universal set up. I called Sea&Land and the guy was no help at all, in fact he was an at-all. What I need is a mixed universal, two bearings at the older spacing, (clips inboard) with two the newer bearings (clips outboard) different spacing. My drive-line guy got close with the two different bearings and spacing different but not quite right. Any ideas? What happened to your old cable? I can provide photos and or dimensions. The other choice I have is to get a new spline coupler between the drive and the jack. Land & Sea no help with that idea
#8
Charter Member #601
Charter Member
Kennyo,
We talked the other day.. You might be able to make on from a Morse 33 cable. Not sure about the end, but you could make the casing any length you wanted.. ???
Bob, the newer drive shafts have metric ujoints. No replacements that I know of. You could pull the whole input shaft out and switch it back to the old style. Is it and XR style Bravo III?? Just a thought..
Dick
We talked the other day.. You might be able to make on from a Morse 33 cable. Not sure about the end, but you could make the casing any length you wanted.. ???
Bob, the newer drive shafts have metric ujoints. No replacements that I know of. You could pull the whole input shaft out and switch it back to the old style. Is it and XR style Bravo III?? Just a thought..
Dick
#9
Registered
Thread Starter
I'll figure something out. I repaired the one I have but it won't last long. L&S got $180 apiece for them when they had them. I'll probably have some made and make them available to whoever needs one. New trim cylinders to convert back would cost as much as having the cables built. Plus I would lose a little speed. I need to start a thread and see how many people have these things. On my boat they work better than the stand off boxes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DrFeelgood
Drives and Lower Units
5
11-05-2007 09:42 AM