bcarpman

I am having some werid oil pressure problems. Brand new 502. Tyler Crokett built.

It builds great oil pressure at Idle (40-50), and for the first few minutes on plain (50 @ 3500 rpm), but then starts to fall. It will keep falling until I back off. When it first starts to fall, I can back off to 2900rpm and the oil pressure will come back up to 40psi, but slowey I have to pull back to 2600rpm to keep it from falling. If I back off plain, pressure imediately comes back up to 40psi or more.

Called Tyler and he wants me to bring it back for them to pull it and check the relief valve but before I do that I thought I see what others have to say.

I've noticed the oil never comes up to temp. 180deg is the max I ever get. Could condensation in the oil be causing something like this? I really hate the thought of being out for most of the season AGAIN this year!

Chris Sunkin

Unless you have the crankcase milkshake thing going on, probably not. You should have an oil t-stat on the boat though.

I wouldn't screw around- if you smoke the motor, Tyler probably won't help you.

Here's a great way to educate youself on oiling systems. If you read this, you'll be able to have an informed conversation with Tyler. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...3&page=1&pp=20

bcarpman

Yes there is an oil t-stat

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

my god man ...take it back ....however ...is this electric gauge? .....but I would let Tyler handle it ....

Carder

Tyler did ours as well. He also installed after-market oil coolers that kick on at 180*. The oil hits that temp, the gates open, and the oil drops below 180. Never seen it higher than that. We also had some strange oil pressure issues with one of the engines he built. After the engines warmed up, the warning light in the gauge would start to flicker and the needle would also flicker in synch with the warning light. I added a manuel oil pressure gauge in the bilge, so when I had issues with the electric gauge, I could crack open the hatch and check the real oil pressure.
Carder

Chris Sunkin

180 degrees is where you'd want an automotive engine to run at. You need to break 212 on a boat to cook the moisture out of the oil.

bcarpman

Yep, that's what I thought.

I went ahead and took it back to Tyler. This engine has been a nightmare. It's been down three times since I had it built last year. I'm 20K and 13 months into this project and I still don't have a boat that will reliably get me anywhere. I just hope this is the last time I have to be down. I didn't ask for a flaky race engine. I wanted something resonably conservative and reliable.

bcarpman

Was he able to put a higher temp thermostat in for you?

KAAMA

iTrader: (1)

Did Tyler dyno test the engine after he built it???? If so, were you present during the dyno session and what was the oil pressure reading from the dyno test? From what I have heard about Tyler he is a pretty smart guy---I am sure he will figure out the problem and stand behind his work. Be sure to keep us posted.

Turbojack

Is the oil going thru the oil cooler or bypassing the cooler? Are you reading the oil temp in the pan or somewhere else? Sounds like classic need oil cooler.

Other option is not enough oil in the pan? Or too small of a pan?