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Removing water from exhaust flow? Should I do this?

Old 03-10-2002, 04:49 PM
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Default Removing water from exhaust flow? Should I do this?

I've had several engine builders tell me it would be adventageous to lessen the amount of water that goes out my exhaust. Can I simply run the water that normally goes into the risors (from the thermostat housing) out the back of the boat? Is there still enough water running thru the manifolds to keep the rubber exhaust hoses from melting?? I am running EMI Thunder Exhaust with the aluminum risors.

I'm not concerned with noise. I know it will be louder. I have friends in high places on the water!! And I'm running Drew Shotguns to take the "bark" out of it anyway.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 03-10-2002, 09:25 PM
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water,
Good question I'm welding extentions on to the back of the EMI's And cutting down the waterflow. The extentions are for reversion and the water is for HP. I'll let you know. Greg
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Old 03-11-2002, 12:42 AM
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How do you like the Shotguns. I will have them this year as well. I was wondering if you could put a cotter pin in to hold the mostly closed if you were taking a night cruise or neded it queiter. As long as all the water can get out.
 
Old 03-11-2002, 04:47 AM
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WF- I have the same EMI aluminum exhaust and have the water plumbed into the manifolds in the front fittings only. I have no water going into the risers from a separate hose. No problems for 3 years.
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Old 03-11-2002, 07:58 AM
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Foul. There was a string on this a while back. I looked for it but no dice. I know that with the newer motors there is only one hose that goes to the bottom of the manifold. They no longer have one going to the riser. SO maybe you can just get the newer style T-stat and plug up the hole in the riser. Another possibility would be to use your manifolds as preheaters for the engine water and then go out the risers. This striked me as very sensible. I think that Cord started that thread a while back. I am not sure what the difference is btwn the water preasure with and with out the dual hose going to the risers. One last way to regulate the water flow that I can think of is to change your pully diameter but I would be real carefull of doing that.

Jon
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Old 03-12-2002, 12:57 PM
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'Foul,

I switched to a set of late model Merc manifolds when I installed my big block. These only have the hose connection in the lower front of each manifold - no hoses to risers. I fabricated a set of "T" fittings for the hoses coming out of the T-stat. Works fine so far - saved the cost of a new T-stat housing.

Not sure if I gained anything by doing this, as I was upgrading from a 350 mag, so nothing to compare it to.
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Old 03-12-2002, 06:59 PM
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The whole reason for running the top hose overboard is to lessen the amount of water going out of the exhaust to lessen backpreasure. The problem with doing that is untill the thermostat opens there will be almost no water going out the exhaust and you will burn up the exhaust hoses. Some people drill holes in the thermostat but at idle the engine runs way too cold. What I did was figure out the path of the water going through the thermostat housing and drilled 2 -- 1/4 inch holes bypassing water directly from the inlet side of the housing directly to the area above the thermostat ( this flows water to the bottom hoses thus sending water to the exhaust without going through the motor)

WATERFOWL if you want to do this I will drill your housing for you.

(WARNING THIS WILL MAKE YOUR EXHAUST VERY LOUD)

tHE OTHER THING I DO IS SPRAY THE DUMPED WATER DIRECTLY ONTO THE OUTDRIVES SINCE IT IS ALMOST LAKE TEMPERATURE.
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Old 03-13-2002, 11:01 AM
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I am trying to do the same thing. I just looked at mine and figured out the flow.. My housing has 2 big outlets (raw water in and water to circulating pump) and 4 small outlets ( 2 to the risers and 2 to the manifolds.. When my stat is closed the circulating pump and risers get water. When the stat opens water gets to the manifolds.

SO could I switch the hoses so all time riser water goes to the bottom of the manifolds and take the manifold water (only when stat is open) to the dumps. Really I would switching the risers outlets with the manifold outlets.


Ok. 1 more question. On the riser outlets there is this assembly of a long rod, springs and two balls (one in each outlet).. Can I take this out and throw it away?..... or is needed for something?



Travis

Last edited by traviss; 03-13-2002 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 03-13-2002, 12:49 PM
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Tinker,
I understand what you are talking about, assuming(which I hate to do) your thermostat housing has only 2 outlets. I am not sure what housing Waterfoul has, however, I have the 4-outlet(really 2-inlet, 2-oulet) thermostat housing which has a bypass kind of like the one you created. It is from Rex marine. This bypass feeds water to the risers at all times even when the stat is closed. The bypass hoses to both risers is 5/8"dia. My thought on decreasing waterflow for this set up is to install a tee at the riser, decreasing the inlet size to the riser(thus reducing water flow)and provide a dump line from the last oultet of the tee to the transom sized smaller than the 5/8" inlet but larger than the riser feed.

Waterfoul, am I on track for what you are trying to accomplish? What stat housing do you have?


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Old 03-13-2002, 01:19 PM
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His picture of the engine on his website shows the older style housing with two large and four small fittings. I have the same type, but with the two smaller hoses going into a "tee" and then into the manifold.

I'm also curious to see what gains could be had by limiting water flow. However, I would be hesitant to try it on mine because I am running silent choice.
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