Griff

Read this, but I highly doubt your valves need adjusted.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

Fenderjack

iTrader: (2)

Why don't you save yourself some confusion.Just adjust one bank at a time starting at #1 3 5 7 do the exhaust and intake on each cylinder and work your way to the back# 7 cylinder then go to the other bank and do#2 4 6 8 intake and exaust front to back. My 2 cents JOHN

hoozeyurdaddy

here's a little helpful info if you've got the timing cover off, when the timing dots are lined up with each other, that is #6 TDC firing stroke, rotate crank 360 deg for #1

rws

iTrader: (3)

This is a proven method that will work on any four stroke engine.You can use a breaker bar or by jogging a remote starter switch to roll the engine over .I learned this method from Roger Mahan while working on Blown Alky Grand Prix boats, we would often have half an hour to change engines.I can remember setting the valves while being towed to the cranes at Valleyfield.

pslonaker

iTrader: (1)

Havent looked at any of the answers here, but if you want something simple that works...follow these directions. I can do this in 15 minutes and be done.

OK guys...thought I would share another of my top priority secrets...how to adjust your hydraulic lifters in 2 easy steps. This system works and I have been using it for years...but...take note...I said HYDRAULIC lifters...not solids.

Lets suppose that you have just installed a new cam and lifters (hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic rollers) and you want to know how to set them. First off...do not set the intake manifold or your MPI intake on the motor until you have all those puppies adjusted so that you can see the cam to VERIFY that the lifter is indeed on the heel (back side of the cam from the lobe) of the cam and the lobe is on the other side. Leave the timing cover off too.

If you are using the same pushrods and rockers...the pushrod **MUST** go back in the **EXACT** spot it was in when you removed it, with the correct end **UP**. Also, the **EXACT** same rocker arm **MUST** go back on the **EXACT** same stud with the **EXACT** same **BALL** that was in that rocker arm. I can not stress enough...how important this is...because if you get just 1 wrong...that means 2 are wrong and you WILL HAVE DISASTROUS FAILURE with the 2 that are wrong. If you are installing NEW pushrods and rockers...no worries...just drop em in place and adjust.

OK...set the motor on TDC so that the 2 dots on the timing crank gear and the cam sprocket are lined up vertically. We are discussing a SB or a BB...doesnt matter, the firing order is the same (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). We want to look at the position of the cam lobe in relation to #1 cylinder...which is the first cylinder to your right as you stand in front of the motor...that side has 1, 3, 5 & 7, cylinders...the other side has 2, 4, 6 & 8 cylinders. Look at the cam at where the lifters are touching it. If it is NOT on the lobe or close to it, then you are correct for your starting point. If you can see the lifter beginning to start up the lobe on the cam, then you need to rotate the motor 1 full (360 degrees on the crank gear) turn and line up the 2 vertical dots again (crank gear dot will be on top and cam gear dot will be on top). With this done, we are ready to start adjusting...just make sure that you look into the intake ports to know that you are either on an intake valve or an exhaust valve. If you are using new lifters, there will be no resistance so you need to pay close attention and watch. Hold the pushrod with your thumb and finger...you can jiggle it up and down some...tighten the nut on the rocker until the pushrod has no jiggle or up & down movement. It should be just starting to push down on the plunger in the lifter. Mark that spot and then take your socket and make "ONE FULL (360 degree) TURN and stop at your mark spot...do NOT go more than one full turn. You might be able to push the rocker down alittle...if you have new lifters that are not pumped up...this is normal...no worries. Do this to adjust every lifter in this sequence which will be 8 lifters. The ones to adjust are...

If the harmonic balancer is on...line the mark up so that it on TDC and ready for number 1 to fire...then you can adjust...

INTAKE...3, 4, 6 & 8 valves
EXHAUST...2, 5, 6 & 7 valves

Now rotate the engine over by HAND 1 full turn (360 degrees) and line the marks up again and you can adjust the following after you verify that the lifter on #3 intake is on the heal of the cam...

INTAKE...1, 2, 5 & 7 valves
EXHAUST...1, 3, 4 & 8 valves

Now rotate the motor over by hand again 1 full turn. The lifters are all adjusted and now you can go back and button it up....install the timing cover and your intake. Set your distributor in place noting where the rotor is pointing as this will be where the #1 spark plug wire goes, then install the rest of the wires in a CLOCKWISE rotation. Some people rotate their motors to the 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock positions to do this, but I am lazy and prefer to do it in 2 steps instead of 4.

As I said, I have been using this methoid of hydraulic lifter adjustment for over 45 years and I have never had a problem. Adjusting solid lifters is a different game. I hope this will help anyone who might be doing engine mods as this is really pretty simple. Also I would not use the cork or rubber gaskets that go on the front and rear of the motor. I would instead use a 1/4 inch bead of silicone on the front and rear rail to ensure no oil leaks. It never fails with me to have the rubber strips squirt out when I am tightening up the intake manifold bolts...25 to 30 pounds feet of torque...so I toss those things and use the silicone...use high temp silicone.

Griff

Its described the same way on the Crane link I posted and thats how I've always adjusted them as well.

Strip Poker 388

iTrader: (6)

me 2 .That way ya dont miss one

jayhawk261

Best way, can't go wrong. One cylinder at a time, down one bank and then down the other. A hand held switch that clips to the solenoid is the best way of turning the engine over. I'd also agree with Griff. If you have a hydraulic cam in a running engine, there probably isn't a reason to need to adjust the valves. Mechanical cams need lash adjustment with some regularity. Obviously any work that required removing the rocker arms would require adjustment to put it back together.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

good choice. i do question the full turn after zero lash however that' just my opinion. what kind of lifters are you using? i know there have been several threads regarding this and there where several different opinions. i'm not saying any of them were wrong however i would just go by the manufactures recommendations.