Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > Technical > General Q & A
Bleeding Latham Hydraulic steering >

Bleeding Latham Hydraulic steering

Notices

Bleeding Latham Hydraulic steering

Old 05-14-2009, 09:51 PM
  #1  
Charter Member #34
Charter Member
Thread Starter
 
Dock Holiday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Beautiful North Carolina
Posts: 7,151
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Bleeding Latham Hydraulic steering

What is the correct proceedure?

I pretty sure it has air in the system and I went ahead and replaced the filter tonight.

Need to bleed it tomorrow night so I can water test Saturday.

Thanks in advance
Dock Holiday is offline  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:09 PM
  #2  
Charter Member #34
Charter Member
Thread Starter
 
Dock Holiday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Beautiful North Carolina
Posts: 7,151
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by daredevil
Dock,,,on my boat i never had to do anything exept run it on the hose and turn from stop to stop ( easy ) and just keep filling oil in the reservoir !!??

It should bleed the air out by it self !!!
That's what I was hoping to hear.

Was that on a Latham brand system. I have heard that it works on IMCO but was told that you have to crack the fitting on the cylinders on the Latham?

Thanks
Dock Holiday is offline  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:13 PM
  #3  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Dock Holiday
What is the correct proceedure?

I pretty sure it has air in the system and I went ahead and replaced the filter tonight.

Need to bleed it tomorrow night so I can water test Saturday.

Thanks in advance
'Full Power Hydraulic System' Bleeding: Ensure that all hydraulic lines and fittings are securely tightened before starting the bleeding process. During the entire bleeding process, check the oil level in the steering reservoir regularly and top up when necessary. DO NOT LET RUN DRY ! This will fill system with air. Turn on the engine or engines that are fitted with a power steering pump and let run for a few minutes without touching the steering wheel. With the power steering pump(s) running, turn the steering wheel hard-over in one direction and release the wheel. With a bucket placed under one of the steering cylinders, crack the hose fitting that is closest to the piston. This is the port that is closest to the piston rod when the rod is extended and the port that is farthest from the piston rod when the rod is retracted. Allow the oil to leak out of the fitting until there is a solid stream of oil, then tighten the fitting. With the steering wheel in the same position, repeat this step for any other cylinders. Check oil level in reservoir and top if necessary.

After tightening the cylinder hose fitting(s), turn the steering wheel 'hard-over' to the other side then release the wheel. Repeat the bleeding process at the cylinders as described above. Check oil level in steering reservoir and top if necessary.

This sounds really easy but I've found it to be very frustrating.

You know all air is gone if after shutting it down, you can NOT move the drive(s) more than about 1/16th of an inch in either direction with your arms tugging hard.
SDFever is offline  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:26 PM
  #4  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
c_deezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ontario, OH
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SDFever
'Full Power Hydraulic System' Bleeding: Ensure that all hydraulic lines and fittings are securely tightened before starting the bleeding process. During the entire bleeding process, check the oil level in the steering reservoir regularly and top up when necessary. DO NOT LET RUN DRY ! This will fill system with air. Turn on the engine or engines that are fitted with a power steering pump and let run for a few minutes without touching the steering wheel. With the power steering pump(s) running, turn the steering wheel hard-over in one direction and release the wheel. With a bucket placed under one of the steering cylinders, crack the hose fitting that is closest to the piston. This is the port that is closest to the piston rod when the rod is extended and the port that is farthest from the piston rod when the rod is retracted. Allow the oil to leak out of the fitting until there is a solid stream of oil, then tighten the fitting. With the steering wheel in the same position, repeat this step for any other cylinders. Check oil level in reservoir and top if necessary.

After tightening the cylinder hose fitting(s), turn the steering wheel 'hard-over' to the other side then release the wheel. Repeat the bleeding process at the cylinders as described above. Check oil level in steering reservoir and top if necessary.

This sounds really easy but I've found it to be very frustrating.

You know all air is gone if after shutting it down, you can NOT move the drive(s) more than about 1/16th of an inch in either direction with your arms tugging hard.
+1. Although I didn't use a bucket...
c_deezy is offline  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:31 PM
  #5  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by c_deezy
+1. Although I didn't use a bucket...
Yeah it's real messy and I forgot to mention that it's SOOOOO much easier with two people. To do it right really is a two man job I think.
SDFever is offline  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:56 AM
  #6  
rv
Registered
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Loto, MO
Posts: 1,224
Received 2 Likes on 1 Post
Default

Do you need to have the engine running? I was told you use the same procedure described but have someone put pressure on the wheel when at the stop. When you open the fitting they continue turning the wheel and this will push the oil through the system and the air out the fitting.

Rick
rv is offline  
Old 05-15-2009, 08:32 AM
  #7  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
c_deezy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ontario, OH
Posts: 2,465
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rv
Do you need to have the engine running? I was told you use the same procedure described but have someone put pressure on the wheel when at the stop. When you open the fitting they continue turning the wheel and this will push the oil through the system and the air out the fitting.

Rick
Once we had the system somewhat full of fluid, that's what we did to start off. With the motor off, had one guy turning the wheel hard until it locked, then crack a fitting, let the air out, go the other way, do the same and then repeat several times. Then we did it with the motor/pump running. After that, it was so tight you couldn't budge those drives. It's amazing what full hydro will do to stiffen things up.

That was on a complete fresh install tho, alot of air in the system.

Dock - in your case I would think you should be able to just run the motor and run the drives back and forth a few times and it should work itself out, like what DD said.
c_deezy is offline  
Old 05-15-2009, 08:36 AM
  #8  
Charter Member #34
Charter Member
Thread Starter
 
Dock Holiday's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Beautiful North Carolina
Posts: 7,151
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thanks SD Fever that helps a lot. I was told that but actually seeing the process in writing really helps. Looks like I might get a little dirty tomorrow!

I plan to try what daredevil suggested first and hope for success but I was told it will not work on the Latham system for what ever reason.

Many thanks all I'll report back on the results.
Dock Holiday is offline  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:31 AM
  #9  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The reason you run the engines is to get said air all the way into the rams and fully against the pistons. This will not happen completely without the pump running.

Otherwise, it will fool you. I learned through error and getting bathed in tranny fluid and water. After hanging on the phone with Latham Tech this is what we came up with. It's straight from them.

You can do it however you want but if you have a "full power" system, this is the quickest, most sure way to get it done and to get all of the air out. I'm not the "end all". I'm just sharing the correct, detailed way of diong it so you don't have to start from scratch the way I did.
SDFever is offline  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:33 AM
  #10  
Registered
 
birdog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Batavia Oh.
Posts: 4,035
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Doc...My Bullet had Latham and i just ran it and turned the wheel back and forth...Easy
birdog is offline  

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.