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Fuel Vapor Lock again...........

Old 08-10-2009, 07:35 PM
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Cloud,
Before you re-rig, I think your idea of just doing a quick test with a temporary rubber fuel line in place of the steel line might work.
Ben
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BenPerfected
Cloud,
Before you re-rig, I think your idea of just doing a quick test with a temporary rubber fuel line in place of the steel line might work.
Ben
Plan on it, West Marine has rubber fuel line USCG and NMMA approved. Gonna loose the metal line and reroute it.

I'm probably gonna do the fuel return switch as well.

Also going to add a couple of vents just to get some more air into the engine compartment, i don't think there is enough.

None of this would matter if i don't sit in slow no wake channels. But i do, so something has to be done.

Last edited by cloudmaster_321; 08-10-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 08-10-2009, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DownandDirty
My mistake cloudmaster, I missed the mpi and was under the impression it was carburated based on the post about the return system. I'm not certain but I believe the mpi already has a return style system due to the level of fuel pressure required to run. I have extremely limited knowledge on fuel injected systems won't be of much help. Sorry for the confusion, just trying to help.
The MPI's just return the fuel to the water sep filter and not tot he tank.

He said he has the VST system. The only thing I have read about them is that the screen in the VST tanks clogs up all the time.
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Old 08-11-2009, 07:41 AM
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If i want to check this screen out, what seal or oring would i need to put it back together. Only thing i saw was some $80+ kit with the orings..........
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:35 AM
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you have to remember that the cause is engine heat and heat soak in the engine bay. try turning on your bilge blower to exhaust extra air and heat. the fix is to keep the bilge cool.
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jb-fse
you have to remember that the cause is engine heat and heat soak in the engine bay. try turning on your bilge blower to exhaust extra air and heat. the fix is to keep the bilge cool.
No doubt, i agree. Eliminator doesn't have much at all in the way of venting. I am going to try and add some venting through the lower back seat area.

I usually run with my blower fan on all the time. It's not enough though. Maybe there are better blowers now that move more air? Not sure. I'm sure mine is '96 technology.

I have not religiously lifted the hatch cover 8 inches or so when in the channels but will be doing that as well. I still think the rubber lines will help out with the fuel temps as well.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cloudmaster_321
If i want to check this screen out, what seal or oring would i need to put it back together. Only thing i saw was some $80+ kit with the orings..........
I don't have/never had a VST system, so I don't know the specifics. I have read a lot about an internal sceen that gets clogged and needs to be cleaned out periodically.
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Old 08-11-2009, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Griff
I don't have/never had a VST system, so I don't know the specifics. I have read a lot about an internal sceen that gets clogged and needs to be cleaned out periodically.
It's something worth checking into for sure. Just saw it looked like i had to spend 80 bucks for an oring to put the cover back on......... seems kinda crazy
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:52 AM
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If you are careful you can reuse the o ring seal in the vst cover. My experience is that it stays in the groove machined in the cover. I keep one just in case but have not had to use it.

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