Ignition(?) Problem HI-6M and TB-IV Distributor

[bck]

If you get the instruction manual it outlines exactly what the LED is supposed to do and when. There are test procedures that will tell you by means of the LED (off, on, flashing etc.) which component if any has failed.

[Nordicflame]

Originally Posted by bck

If you get the instruction manual it outlines exactly what the LED is supposed to do and when. There are test procedures that will tell you by means of the LED (off, on, flashing etc.) which component if any has failed.

Yes, in a perfect world that would be nice

The instructions infers that the light stays on when the key is on. Now we have Thunderstrucks two with a quick flash, DesertRage with a quick flash and now my two with a quick flash and all functioning well…

Seemes to me that it’s about 50/50 on this deal and I’m beginnig to wonder if it’s the position of the reluctor wheel when keyed.

Anyway, the manual does not hold the answer here

[Nordicflame]

Conclusion to the saga (pre-water test)

Well I reinstalled the unit thought to be bad. This is also the one with the uncrimped fuse link. I reinstalled it because when I mocked in into the boat I received a solid red key on light when and only when the coil wires were attached. (If you remember I tried it on the truck battery and got no light at all. Crane says it doesn’t need the coil and distributor wires hooked up to get the red light to function)
I felt good enough about this to crimp the wires and try it out. Well, after crimping the wires I got no light at all
Completely dead. Strong 12v going in and strong 12v on the switch wire going in when keyed.
She’s Dead

OK, time to install the new/used unit. I cut all the new connections and re-wired the new to me box in with new weather proof connectors. Turn the key on and get a red flash. Turn the other key on and get a red flash. Were on to something here

Pulled the boat out of the shed and hooked up the hose and she fired up with perfection
Fired the other one up and perfect as well.
It was nice to hear them both happy. I am fully confident that the case is now solved.

My conclusion is this… The crimp was absolutely faulty from the factory; Not one hint of doubt here Once this contact was compromised (shorted) the resistance fluctuations between the batteries and the box caused internal failure to the main power circuit in the box. So my confidence in these boxes (these were the 5th and 6th I’ve installed) remains very high. They just can’t be subjected to poor power delivery abuse.

Is the light suppose to stay on when keyed as Crane tech and instructions say? No; Proven 5 times on this thread not to be so. Must be the position of the reluctor or something because apparently there are some that do indeed stay on. A mystery

I’ll let you know how the water test goes

Thanks for all the input on this!

Dave

[Thunderstruck]

Great job. Sure was painful though!

Restricting the current to a DC device can make the current go high to keep drawing the same amount of power which causes heat with increased temps. Essentially, the bad crimp was just like putting a resistor in the power wire. Maybe the bad crimp raised the current which overheated the components in the box and toasted it.

[Nordicflame]

Water test complete. All is well and back to normal
Thanks Again!

[Gordo]

Thanks for the link Dave.
I'll try mine out and let you'all know what I find.

Gordo