Running really bad
10-04-2009, 10:17 PM
#11
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Fixx
Drain the tank and start from scratch,starbrite startron make a product that soppose to work good..Chack out this utube video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeCyF...layer_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeCyF...layer_embedded
10-05-2009, 04:13 AM
#12
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Right now my plan is to run the fuel pump into cans until empty. I think I should still put in a dry gas to soak-up any condensation left over. From there should I use both the star tron and stabil? For winter I still need the tank near full?
10-05-2009, 09:48 AM
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mrfixxall
I had my boat for 25 yrs and every year i drain my gas tank and plug the over flow tube in the hull and NEVER had any issues..if theirs no fuel with alcohol in the tank how will condensation build up when theirs no air getting to it.
10-05-2009, 07:12 PM
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mrfixxall - The video kind of scared me because the fuel is so pathetic. Are you in a E10 state? I did some reading and one article said put in just what you need during the season, but then fill 5 gal short of full for winter. I would rather leave it empty because I am broke and don't want to spend money on gas that can turn bad. Other stuff I read made me realize mistakes that were made. When we bought the boat in Jersey a few years ago it probably had MTBE which was then mixed with our E10.
Tonight I took out about 24 gallons. What a waste. I want to put in some sort of dry gas before putting in more fuel. Any suggestions? I am also going to change the plugs and the fuel filter. Right now I am considering doing the winterization with a just a couple gallons of strait leaded race fuel, I mix it with the 93 octane E10 in my GTO and never have real issues. The car usually bogs the first two times I nail it in the spring, the third time I punch it it is ready to go. The research I did now makes me realiize that if I bought the 100 octance MTBE race fuel and mixed with the E10 I would have messed-up my car.
Tonight I took out about 24 gallons. What a waste. I want to put in some sort of dry gas before putting in more fuel. Any suggestions? I am also going to change the plugs and the fuel filter. Right now I am considering doing the winterization with a just a couple gallons of strait leaded race fuel, I mix it with the 93 octane E10 in my GTO and never have real issues. The car usually bogs the first two times I nail it in the spring, the third time I punch it it is ready to go. The research I did now makes me realiize that if I bought the 100 octance MTBE race fuel and mixed with the E10 I would have messed-up my car.
10-05-2009, 07:44 PM
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mrfixxall
mrfixxall - The video kind of scared me because the fuel is so pathetic. Are you in a E10 state? I did some reading and one article said put in just what you need during the season, but then fill 5 gal short of full for winter. I would rather leave it empty because I am broke and don't want to spend money on gas that can turn bad. Other stuff I read made me realize mistakes that were made. When we bought the boat in Jersey a few years ago it probably had MTBE which was then mixed with our E10.
Tonight I took out about 24 gallons. What a waste. I want to put in some sort of dry gas before putting in more fuel. Any suggestions? I am also going to change the plugs and the fuel filter. Right now I am considering doing the winterization with a just a couple gallons of strait leaded race fuel, I mix it with the 93 octane E10 in my GTO and never have real issues. The car usually bogs the first two times I nail it in the spring, the third time I punch it it is ready to go. The research I did now makes me realiize that if I bought the 100 octance MTBE race fuel and mixed with the E10 I would have messed-up my car.
Tonight I took out about 24 gallons. What a waste. I want to put in some sort of dry gas before putting in more fuel. Any suggestions? I am also going to change the plugs and the fuel filter. Right now I am considering doing the winterization with a just a couple gallons of strait leaded race fuel, I mix it with the 93 octane E10 in my GTO and never have real issues. The car usually bogs the first two times I nail it in the spring, the third time I punch it it is ready to go. The research I did now makes me realiize that if I bought the 100 octance MTBE race fuel and mixed with the E10 I would have messed-up my car.
10-06-2009, 09:29 AM
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I always run the tank almost empty at the end of the season and start with 100 gallons of new 93 octane. Never a problem with condensation. I always fill up on land (the boat is kept on a trailer) and I have had a few issues with e-10 premium. Alot of that is sold in Mich.
10-08-2009, 04:20 AM
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I got both the blue star tron and blue stabil. At West Marine they said I can use both together. I think I still want to put in a dry gas because the pick-up probably does not reach the very botton and there could be a little water still in there. I also changed the plugs and fuel filter. Hoping to get to take in out this weekend.
10-08-2009, 03:44 PM
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I have dealt with this issue 2 years in a row now. The port tank last year and the starboard this year. In both cases I had used stabilizer, but couldn't prevent the ethanol separation. When I took off the fuel/water separators, the stuff that came out looked like sunny delight if you shook it up, then would separate with clear liquid on top and something orange on the bottom. In addition to draining as much as I could out of the tank, I also used something called E-Zorb. It is suppose to bond with the crud and enable it to burn through the system. Anyway, bottom line is that it seemed to help out a lot. You can get it here and probably a lot of other places. Boaters world used to sell it.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=6412#
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=6412#
10-10-2009, 08:40 AM
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Right now I have 5 gal. of fresh 93 w/ the startron and stabil plus a cont. of dry gas (methanol). It is not running as good as it did when it ran off the fuel can. There is possibly crud in the carb., but I think all the backfires my have taken out the power valve. Here is what it is doing-
-rpm always dips below idle speed (sometimes stalls) after reving it up.
-sometimes there is a poping from the left bank when reved-up (comes and goes)
-when hitting the throttle it sometimes hesitates (sign of a power valve problem)
Today I will take off the carb. and work on it. I also found that my fuel cap was not threading all the way down, some water probably got in that way.
-rpm always dips below idle speed (sometimes stalls) after reving it up.
-sometimes there is a poping from the left bank when reved-up (comes and goes)
-when hitting the throttle it sometimes hesitates (sign of a power valve problem)
Today I will take off the carb. and work on it. I also found that my fuel cap was not threading all the way down, some water probably got in that way.
