gen VI timing cover removal

ezstriper · 10-12-2009, 02:42 PM

this has probably been discusssed, but has anybody had success in removing and re-installing the timing cover on a Gen VI chevy with out dropping the oil pan, ? thanks for any help, Rob

Smitty · 10-12-2009, 03:16 PM

I am 99% sure the pan will need to be dropped. Good thing is that the pan gasket is the re-usable kind, so drop it down a little and put it back up when done.

The Gen 6 cover is cast aluminum, so don't pry on it or it will crack.

obnoxus · 10-12-2009, 03:32 PM

got to drop at least he nose of the pan.

Back in the day you used to be able to pull it out and nip the corners to reinstall, but not with the new style covers

Ghostrider · 10-12-2009, 04:06 PM

I got away with popping all the pan bolts down but not out all the way and lowering the pan in place without taking it off the engine. Just be carefull to try and lift the cover straight up as you remove it so as no to crack the lip or edges of the inside of the cover, the cast alloy doesn't like to bend!

You'll need to take the starter off and move the raw water pump out of the way but that's about it.
Good Luck!

Throttle Fever · 10-12-2009, 04:26 PM

Like Ghost said. I pull the front pan bolts and down the side to the starter. Then loosen the rest as far as you can b-4 they fall out. Be super careful and look to see where the gasket wants to stay (on the rail or to the pan) slowly pull the gasket down and out of the way of the timing cover lip (sometimes two sets of hands are good to have on that part). Tips: The pan will want to stay in place, I use some small wood shims to hold it down and out of the way when pulling the cover. Do not jam anything in to pry on the pan or gasket, if you rip or tear it you are pulling an engine. Slow and easy........

ezstriper · 10-12-2009, 06:00 PM

the issue I'm going to have is on my gibson had V-drives, ft of engine close to transom, but the outboard side oil pan bolts not accessable for the most part..engine sits right next to fuel tank...they left the relucter wheel out at the factory, now the balancer slides in past the end of the crank, not fun on a new engine w/100 hrs....GM does not warranty their marine engines and dealer that I purchased from is out of business...so I have to replace the balancer and put the part in...thanks for the replys...Rob

Throttle Fever · 10-12-2009, 06:32 PM

For the hassle, it sounds like it would be easier to pull the motor. You could spend a hour plus just pulling pan bolts. Not including front and side accessory's. Pull it then you have no issue with clearance and resealing the cover and pan.

plumb crazy · 10-12-2009, 09:57 PM

Comp has a new cover you can put on that you don't have to drop the pan 350.00 might be worth it in long run.

ROTAX454 · 10-12-2009, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ezstriper

the issue I'm going to have is on my gibson had V-drives, ft of engine close to transom, but the outboard side oil pan bolts not accessable for the most part..engine sits right next to fuel tank...they left the relucter wheel out at the factory, now the balancer slides in past the end of the crank, not fun on a new engine w/100 hrs....GM does not warranty their marine engines and dealer that I purchased from is out of business...so I have to replace the balancer and put the part in...thanks for the replys...Rob

Was this on one of the GMPP crate motors? ouch.

ezstriper · 10-13-2009, 07:25 AM

no, you cannot buy a "marine" engine from any GM dealer, they are sold only thru marine warehouses, and they are responsible for whatever warranty they put on them...sounds like B/S to me !!!! if you look in the GMPP cat they spec not for marine use !!! next time I will by them anyway and they will warranty them for 3 years as long as you can come up with a truck vin #.....Rob