conquest30'

ok so i am almost done re-building my gen V 502 sidemount whipple for the 2nd time after i spun a main bearing. Probably pushing 700 to 750hp at 9psi. and im looking for a oil pan. I have been researching a few brands and was wondering if i could get some feedback. Anybody have experience with Canton, Hardin Marine, or dooley? There are so many aspects to oil pans and im trying to get a grasp on them. Do i want a kick out pan? how many trap doors? im guessing i need a pan that that has a oil recovery pouch for constant oil around the oil pump. Any help on this subject and personel experience would be great. Thanks

ezstriper

I would say get the one with the most oil capacity that you have room for, kick outs are for keeping oil away from crank and helping H/P, have to be carefull with some as they required special starters to clear the pan, trap doors I don't think do much on boats like we run on here..they work better for drag racing where you want to stop oil running away from pick up on hard deaccel.....we can't stop that quick...or if we do oil running away not going to be important...make sure your carb is right as flooding and fuel getting into the oil will kill a engine way quicker than you would think...also install a oil temp gauge so you know whats going on there..as far as pans are concerned most brands will have one that fits your needs..Rob

conquest30'

well my engine is EFI so i dont have to work about the fuel in the oil situation.... i think that with the supercharger and the stock oil pan my oil is aerating. So i want to make sure i get a pan that keeps that to a minimum and keeps oil near the oil pump

Young Performance

Trap doors are actually pretty important even in boats. With all the bouncing around and throttling, the pickup can be uncovered pretty easily. The larger pans also need the doors to help control all of that oil moving around. My pans have 4 one way trap doors, so the pickup can never be uncovered. For your application, I would use a 14 qt. pan. It has a 2" kickout on one side to catch oil as it slings off of the crank. The windage tray is one of the most important parts of any pan, especially in a boat. You need an effective tray to stop the crank from digging a hole in the oil. It will also help control the oil from sloushing up into the crank and robbing hp and making heat. Give me a shout if I can help. Thanks
Eddie

blownjet 468

make sure the pan you buy has a screen type windage tray that is mounted in the pan, not the old school main stud type!
also make sure that the pan has the baffle at the rear, to keep the oil from creeping up into the crank( and away from the pickup) STEF's/ B&B/ Hamburgers/ OLSEN, etc, are all
good pans, just remember, you get what you pay for!

blue thunder

I run armando oil pans. Very nice, fit right and all the bells and whistles. 5 years hard running and still rock solid. Back then they were $375, far less than the rest.

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/1624/

Scarab28

Conquest - what symptoms (if any) are you experiencing that you think your oil is aerating?

conquest30'

well heres the deal ....... when the engine was cold at idle i would see 40psi oil pressure. After a 20 min run when i bring the motor down to idle there is almost no oil pressure, i have to bring the rpm up to 1100 and it will register 10psi and slowly climb after approx. 10 min to 40psi then i can bring it back down to idle. The other thing is i have not upgraded the stock oil cooling system, which i plan on doing this time. Also i have not plugged the oil bypass in the block. So maybe you can help me out

Young Performance

I don't think the oil pan is your problem. It sounds like a combo of the oil being to hot and the bypass valve is passing to much oil. As the oil gets hot, it gets thin. The thinner it gets, the lower the pressure. The stock oil pan isn't helping with it's small capacity, but I think a better cooler will help a bunch. The bypass will also send a bunch of hot oil through the engine, so it would be great if you could remove it.
I don't know what you have for oil pressure at higher rpms, but keep in mind that you need 10 psi for every 1000 rpm as a minimum. For example, you need at least 50 psi of oil press. at 5000 rpm. Again, those figures are the mins.
Eddie

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

750 hp with stock oil cooler ,i am not suprised about the bearing issue.update your oil cooler BEFORE you go boating again,teague has some nice coolers,GET ONE.also,you should monitor your oil temp.240 max.i run mine at 215 to 220.