whats next? looking for future up grades on 454
#12
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you can, but the little oval port heads were the worse thing chevy ever made.
you can buy 496, 4340 rotating asm. for around 2k. you heads and intake are the key to all your power though. Vortec heads even hold back a 454.
NEVER buy a block that needs repair unless you know what your doing.
you can buy 496, 4340 rotating asm. for around 2k. you heads and intake are the key to all your power though. Vortec heads even hold back a 454.
NEVER buy a block that needs repair unless you know what your doing.
#13
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I thought you just got this thing back together. I usually wait till I blow somthing up till I do somthing with it. Actually last year I took a perfectly good running engine apart to put a roller cam in. I gained 5 MPH so it was well worth it. If I were you I would bore and stroke it to a 489 or 496, definatly get forged pistons, crank and rods (h-beam). With the cam and heads you have that should put you near the 500HP mark. You have small chambers (about 100cc) with the vortec heads so flat top pistons would work fine. Make sure you upgrade your oiling system. When the economy pics up I may consider getting a 502 block and switching all my stroker parts (All I would need are new pistons) over to the new bock to get a 540CI+ engine. It never ends......
This is unrelated, did you raise your x dim when you rebuilt you transom?
This is unrelated, did you raise your x dim when you rebuilt you transom?
#14
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yea i just got the motor put together and have not even ran it yet, i have cabin fever and i could be working on a engine in my shop so i have been more or less just been putting togther a plan so i can start collecting parts for the next short block. as far as the oiling system goes, what else should i be looking for? i have the 18" cooler, i have a block adapter with built in thermostat and no remote filter (before i mentioned the wrong thermostat) and i am running -10 fittings/hose for the lines. if i can truely get to the 500 mark and run a true 70 mph that is all i want/need (for now, lol) i am not ready to spend the money to do k planes and external stering just yet and maybe not until the next boat.
jeff you asked about the transom, i am not sure what the x dimm means but i replaced it pretty much exactly how the factory had done it except sealed up allot better, after my transom and helping with a buddies 98 25 outlaw i am not impressed with bajas fiberglassing as far as sealing up potential rot locations. there were however reasons for both rotting out though.
thanks for the replies to everyone!
jeff you asked about the transom, i am not sure what the x dimm means but i replaced it pretty much exactly how the factory had done it except sealed up allot better, after my transom and helping with a buddies 98 25 outlaw i am not impressed with bajas fiberglassing as far as sealing up potential rot locations. there were however reasons for both rotting out though.
thanks for the replies to everyone!
Last edited by regalman4925; 01-12-2010 at 08:47 PM.
#15
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hopewell, NJ
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You can run a cast crank at 500hp no problem. Ive run full cast motors at 500hp before with no ill effects. Just make sure you run a rev limiter. Not only HP stresses a motor, it is the combination of RPM's and HP that will take it's toll on your crank, rods, and pistons. So as long as you are smooth with the throttle and are careful with your water re-entry you will be fine. The question to ask is, what else will you want to upgrade in the future? If you ever see a blower or anything else in your future that will dramatically raise HP you might want to bite the bullet and go forged now so you dont have to later.
#16
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I would spend money differently than some suggest. I'm mostly in agreement with outlawman. I run scat cast cranks, forged pistons in one engine, KB hypers in the other. 650-700hp per engine spinning about 5400rpm with 6psi and 9.5:1 compression. Last run of the yr WOT for many miles. Melted 5 forged pistons, hypers are fine. Cranks are fine after 5yrs of wicked abuse. I'd focus $$ on inconnel exh valves, good exhaust system, cometic head gaskets and maybe forged rods with the 7/16 rod bolt. Make sure you get the assembly balanced and run a large, thermostatically controlled oil cooler. Set the quench up at no more than .040" to avert detonation and destruction.
Last edited by blue thunder; 01-17-2010 at 12:34 PM.
#17
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yea i just got the motor put together and have not even ran it yet, i have cabin fever and i could be working on a engine in my shop so i have been more or less just been putting togther a plan so i can start collecting parts for the next short block. as far as the oiling system goes, what else should i be looking for? i have the 18" cooler, i have a block adapter with built in thermostat and no remote filter (before i mentioned the wrong thermostat) and i am running -10 fittings/hose for the lines. if i can truely get to the 500 mark and run a true 70 mph that is all i want/need (for now, lol) i am not ready to spend the money to do k planes and external stering just yet and maybe not until the next boat.
jeff you asked about the transom, i am not sure what the x dimm means but i replaced it pretty much exactly how the factory had done it except sealed up allot better, after my transom and helping with a buddies 98 25 outlaw i am not impressed with bajas fiberglassing as far as sealing up potential rot locations. there were however reasons for both rotting out though.
thanks for the replies to everyone!
jeff you asked about the transom, i am not sure what the x dimm means but i replaced it pretty much exactly how the factory had done it except sealed up allot better, after my transom and helping with a buddies 98 25 outlaw i am not impressed with bajas fiberglassing as far as sealing up potential rot locations. there were however reasons for both rotting out though.
thanks for the replies to everyone!
I am doing my transom project right now, it takes a little extra work on the ouside to raise the engine and drive. I should gain about 6MPH by raising it up 3".
#18
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Thread Starter
just curious on what kind of wood you are using on the transom?
on the oiling system i was able to save some cash by not relocating the oil filter, now i only need 4 fittings and hose. also less spots for failure.
now i just need some warmer weather!
on the oiling system i was able to save some cash by not relocating the oil filter, now i only need 4 fittings and hose. also less spots for failure.
now i just need some warmer weather!
#19
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Marine Ply with 9 plys void free. Very heavy but very strong.