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Electric Engine Hatch Lift/Motor

Old 04-14-2002, 12:15 PM
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I doubt if the motor has double windings. I suspect the yellow to ground and the red to hot is one direction and the yellow hot and the red ground is the other. When it didn't run for you were you assuming a chassis ground?
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Old 04-14-2002, 06:45 PM
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Hi Formula233, don't know what you mean by assuming a chassis ground. In the boat, it's mounted to the wall, just the harness which has 2 wires.

Here at the house I simply connected it up to a battery, pos to pos and neg-neg. I'm a computer geek, not an electrician so I'm assuming I have to ground one of the wires, to say something like a ground on my truck or something? The motor didn't turn at all the way I had it hooked up to the battery.

When it was taken out of the boat last summer, it was hardly lifting, no noises or anything like that, just no strength.
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:33 PM
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The actuator you have is made by warner and theyare expensive because no discounters handle them. Formula233 was correct that it is a reverse polarity motor. It's like a trim motor and any starter alternator repair shop can rebuild the motor. Chassis ground is an automotive term and doesn't really apply to boats, so don't let that confuse you. The acuator itself is not hydraulic, just take it apart and clean and grease it. If you can't get it working let me know, I might have a used one.
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:46 PM
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Bowtie-I'm looking for a used actuator, send me a e-mail so we can talk.
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Old 04-14-2002, 11:09 PM
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since were on the subject, does some noise from the screwgear
for a few seconds between 12" and 6" from close
I only hear it on close . does it have anything seriously
wrong with it? how do u grease them?
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Old 04-15-2002, 09:31 PM
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The manufacturer is Wagner not Warner. They're made in Germany. They're still in business and on the net.
I've had mine apart several times to un-jam it, but never tore the motor apart.
Make sure the drive screw is greased really good before you put it together. Mine was starting to rust from lack of maintenence. Also check the gear box at the bottom for lubrication. Mine was almost dry. I used Valvoline high temp wheel bearing grease for all this.

The others are right, the motor requires a reversed polarity to change direction. There is no chassis ground.
If yours is like mine the wires on the drive motor are 14 gage and the harness wires are 8 gage. I couldn't find any crimp connectors or splices that would work. I soldered mine together. Tried to find a waterproof, two prong connector to install to make repaires easier, since mine has a habit of jamming, but no luck. All the connectors I've found don't have the right gage wire (14 ga).

Good luck.
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Old 04-16-2002, 12:49 AM
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Mine jams all the time too. I was thinking of trying to put a rubber spacer in there so it doesnt bottom out so hard.
 
Old 04-16-2002, 06:35 AM
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I'm not sure a rubber bumper will fix it. When I was working mine by hand, I ran it all the way down till it bottomed out and the clutch slipped, it jammed again. If it jammed like that without a load on it I'm going to have to figure some thing else out to stop it.
I've been working on a cut-off switch to stop it at a preset point as it comes down. Some form of micro switch mounted on the lift body and contacting either the hatch or a tab on the lift frame. I wish I had more time to work on this idea. I know it'll work.
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Old 04-16-2002, 04:19 PM
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I had to repair mine a couple of times since 92'. The area behind the rubber "O" ring coroded pushing it outward causing more pressure on the shaft. The clutch would then slip making a clicking noise. I cleaned the area with a small wire brush and regreased, it worked fine.
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Old 04-16-2002, 04:41 PM
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I put it on the boat today after I sanded down the contacts and it's still doing the same thing. Very slow and not enough juice to push the pad up. It's dry, no water in the pad.

Found a local place that would rebuild the motor. The gears and shaft mechanism look fine. After 12 years, a new set of brushes are probably in order anyhow. If it still goes up very slow/straining, should I rewire, or replace the relay switch in the dash?? Neal mentioned replacing the switch because it may not be allowing enough voltage through. So my next question would be where to find the same switch?

Lots of good advice on this message forum, you just gotta love it. Thanks for all the input.
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