Bottom Blueprinting
#22
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#23
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Mine has a healthy hook and I am contemplating getting it removed this winter or doing it myself. Right now not much of the boat is in the water at WOT and I believe more will be in the water after hook removal. The quote I got last winter was 2k to fix the bottom. Last year I did the raising of the x dimension like Ben perfected said and gained 10mph along with new camshafts.
Last edited by blue thunder; 01-06-2010 at 11:38 AM.
#24
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Here she is north of 90mph. She can get quite a bit of chine walk going if the water is too flat. As you can see, not much panther in the water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCfHt242pY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCfHt242pY
#25
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Here she is north of 90mph. She can get quite a bit of chine walk going if the water is too flat. As you can see, not much panther in the water.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCfHt242pY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbCfHt242pY
#26
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Runs well. I like your other utube pass that you made. It looked like the conditions were perfect for a high speed pass. I would like to hit 94 with my 32 however for now I have to be content with 80 and that's a guess since it never hit the water last year with my new 496 builds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_0deyyZoZ4
#27
what I would do is find the center of gravity ,move as much weight to the back you need bow lift ,it looks to flat .after you find your CG you would want to shorten the lower two lifting strakes Think of it like a lever with the CG being the pivit point the ferther back the CG the less wetted surface,the boats being pushed always to the surface .I hope this helps ,easy way to prove this is put 2 80lb sandbags beside the engines what kind of power do you have and what else are doing,WE had my 33ol with ac porcelin head, microwave 20 inch flat screen sink and fridge 75 mph to78 with stock 496 ho,s spinning 30 labbed turning in and its 1.5 mph faster with people in the back seat
#28
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what I would do is find the center of gravity ,move as much weight to the back you need bow lift ,it looks to flat .after you find your CG you would want to shorten the lower two lifting strakes Think of it like a lever with the CG being the pivit point the ferther back the CG the less wetted surface,the boats being pushed always to the surface .I hope this helps ,easy way to prove this is put 2 80lb sandbags beside the engines what kind of power do you have and what else are doing,WE had my 33ol with ac porcelin head, microwave 20 inch flat screen sink and fridge 75 mph to78 with stock 496 ho,s spinning 30 labbed turning in and its 1.5 mph faster with people in the back seat
I'm putting 500efi's in it and Imco boxes and shorties. Drive height is 7.25" right now. I know nothing about the bottom and won't claim to, so it's definately not something I'm willing to take on.
#29
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Blue,
In your video, it looks like you are running out of bottom (strake support). Can you stop your video (side view) and pick a reference point where the spray leaves the bottom? If you are porpoising, the spray will appear to be moving forward and aft. With our boat. the inner stake was way short (designed for 60-70 MPH) and at 85-90+ MPH you are losing stability and scrubbing speed. You can test by lengthening the strakes by screwing and glueing (gel coat paste) short pieces of oak to the existing inner strakes until you get control. We started by picking a strake length that was 1/2 way between the forward and aft spray points. You can see the spray points best by starting and stopping your video and splitting the difference. After the final testing, we had the strakes permanently lengthened almost 5' from the length out of Wellcraft mold. Another method is to just put your oak test strakes at about 12" behind the CG...you will be close.
If you want to pursue this, we have two 12" pieces of oak that we have on the shelf that match the factory strake you could borrow to get some wood cut locally.
Ben
In your video, it looks like you are running out of bottom (strake support). Can you stop your video (side view) and pick a reference point where the spray leaves the bottom? If you are porpoising, the spray will appear to be moving forward and aft. With our boat. the inner stake was way short (designed for 60-70 MPH) and at 85-90+ MPH you are losing stability and scrubbing speed. You can test by lengthening the strakes by screwing and glueing (gel coat paste) short pieces of oak to the existing inner strakes until you get control. We started by picking a strake length that was 1/2 way between the forward and aft spray points. You can see the spray points best by starting and stopping your video and splitting the difference. After the final testing, we had the strakes permanently lengthened almost 5' from the length out of Wellcraft mold. Another method is to just put your oak test strakes at about 12" behind the CG...you will be close.
If you want to pursue this, we have two 12" pieces of oak that we have on the shelf that match the factory strake you could borrow to get some wood cut locally.
Ben
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Thats a good thought Ben. If you look at this vid it looks like the spray is exiting maybe 6-12" from the transom. The boat is almost completely out of the water. The blue strip is the end of the side of the boat. I'll study this some more. I guess you are suggesting I need to lengthen the strake to fix the walk as opposed to eliminate the hook?
PS Allicat38 - sorry for the HJ. If its a problem I will take my discussion off line or to a new thread. Just say the word.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHkTn7YeZuU
PS Allicat38 - sorry for the HJ. If its a problem I will take my discussion off line or to a new thread. Just say the word.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHkTn7YeZuU