Hardin marine Thermostatically Controlled cooler
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Eddie
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I installed the "700hp" Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and have been dissapointed with its cooling capacity with my ~600hp modified naturally aspirated closed cooling 496HO. The engine coolant stays nice and cool at 140F max with a 120F thermostat at extended WOT runs but during extended WOT running the oil temp keeps climbing until I shut it down at 270F (after about 15 min) because I do not want the oil that hot. I have tremendous sea water flow through the oil cooler with 43psi+ sea water pressure at WOT and good oil flow with -10 lines and fittings for 75-80 psi oil cold/warm at WOT...until things get real hot then the oil pressure goes south. I am running a HV oil pump. I checked the oil temperature thermostat and it closes at the 190F set temperature as it should then forceing all oil flow through the cooling HE.
It just seems that the 3"x 18" cooler is over rated as far as the "700hp" cooling capacity. I wish I would have gone with the 1000hp unit for my ~600hp.
It just seems that the 3"x 18" cooler is over rated as far as the "700hp" cooling capacity. I wish I would have gone with the 1000hp unit for my ~600hp.
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I installed the "700hp" Hardin Marine thermostatically controlled oil cooler and have been dissapointed with its cooling capacity with my ~600hp modified naturally aspirated closed cooling 496HO. The engine coolant stays nice and cool at 140F max with a 120F thermostat at extended WOT runs but during extended WOT running the oil temp keeps climbing until I shut it down at 270F (after about 15 min) because I do not want the oil that hot. I have tremendous sea water flow through the oil cooler with 43psi+ sea water pressure at WOT and good oil flow with -10 lines and fittings for 75-80 psi oil cold/warm at WOT...until things get real hot then the oil pressure goes south. I am running a HV oil pump. I checked the oil temperature thermostat and it closes at the 190F set temperature as it should then forceing all oil flow through the cooling HE.
It just seems that the 3"x 18" cooler is over rated as far as the "700hp" cooling capacity. I wish I would have gone with the 1000hp unit for my ~600hp.
It just seems that the 3"x 18" cooler is over rated as far as the "700hp" cooling capacity. I wish I would have gone with the 1000hp unit for my ~600hp.
just a suggestion. after reading your post are you ABSOLUTLY certain that your plumbing is correct. I have seen an application much like yours that exhibited symptoms you described that was rigged by a very a reputable person only to find it was plumbed "in to in" and "out to out" and the flow in the cooler running parallel with the cooling water instead of against it. once this was corrected everything was much more predictable. that cooler should be large enough. good luck.
#14
Rage:
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
One other thing: the thermostat throw could be short (possibly incorrect T stat -- throw should be .300") which could keep it from shutting off against the fitting causing excessive bypass.
Check those and lmk.
Russ
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
One other thing: the thermostat throw could be short (possibly incorrect T stat -- throw should be .300") which could keep it from shutting off against the fitting causing excessive bypass.
Check those and lmk.
Russ
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Mr Cool for all of your heat exchangers and oil coolers , transmission coolers and more!
Locations in: Florida, Michigan & Washington!
Mr Cool for all of your heat exchangers and oil coolers , transmission coolers and more!
Locations in: Florida, Michigan & Washington!
Last edited by Mr. Cool; 04-05-2010 at 11:38 AM.
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RAGE,
just a suggestion. after reading your post are you ABSOLUTLY certain that your plumbing is correct. I have seen an application much like yours that exhibited symptoms you described that was rigged by a very a reputable person only to find it was plumbed "in to in" and "out to out" and the flow in the cooler running parallel with the cooling water instead of against it. once this was corrected everything was much more predictable. that cooler should be large enough. good luck.
just a suggestion. after reading your post are you ABSOLUTLY certain that your plumbing is correct. I have seen an application much like yours that exhibited symptoms you described that was rigged by a very a reputable person only to find it was plumbed "in to in" and "out to out" and the flow in the cooler running parallel with the cooling water instead of against it. once this was corrected everything was much more predictable. that cooler should be large enough. good luck.
I will post the results when I have them.
Thanks for the input.
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Rage:
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
One other thing: the thermostat throw could be short (possibly incorrect T stat -- throw should be .300") which could keep it from shutting off against the fitting causing excessive bypass.
Check those and lmk.
Russ
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
One other thing: the thermostat throw could be short (possibly incorrect T stat -- throw should be .300") which could keep it from shutting off against the fitting causing excessive bypass.
Check those and lmk.
Russ
I thermocoupled the bypass line and its temperature stabilizes at ~190F thermostat setting while the engine oil keeps climbing way above that during hard runs.
How can the throw of the thermostat be measured?
Thanks.
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TWIN-SPINS, Thanks for the thought but most of the extended WOT runs where the oil gets too hot are AFR runs one cylinder at a time for ECU fuel table calibration. I am always in the 12.5 AFR sweet spot at WOT or I adjust fuel pressure to get there.
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Rage:
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
Russ
Is there any possibility that the thermostat is corroded? It sounds like if the temperature is climbing as you're at WOT, you could be bypassing more than you think because the T stat isn't expanding. The cooler design is sized properly up to 700hp. If you're running 600hp, something is likely wrong in the hookup or you've got some blockage.
Russ
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Just throwing some other suggestions out there.
Good luck