How high can you safely mount a remote oil filter?
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How high can you safely mount a remote oil filter?
Hi everyone, sorry, I only have a lowly MasterCraft ski boat, and it's always on inland lakes. BUT, I do have a vehicle with a ZZ502, and 502's seem to be pretty popular. I have a remote oil filter mounting question, and found some invaluable on your forum with a google search. It was my lucky day, as I learned about switching the stock 11psi bypass valve for a 30psi so all the oil didn't bypass the filter because of the extra remote mount flow resistance. Whew! Thank you!!!
Anyway, as shown on the picture below, my headers and kick out oil pan completely cage my oil filter, so I have to put a remote mount in. The filter will still be level, but it will be 6-8" above the height of the block's filter mounting pad, about 4' of -10AN hose away. It seems like the oil will slowly glug-glug out of the inclined lines and empty back into the block, leaving a big bubble to purger on start up. What do you guys do about that? Are there any start up lubrication issues from having the remote filter mounted higher? I can't imagine you would remote mount a filter, and have it at the same height down in the bilge(?)
Again, sorry to invade your forum, but thanks for any help. You guys gotta know more about this than any car guys. Maybe it will be something for your members to think about on their boats.
Anyway, as shown on the picture below, my headers and kick out oil pan completely cage my oil filter, so I have to put a remote mount in. The filter will still be level, but it will be 6-8" above the height of the block's filter mounting pad, about 4' of -10AN hose away. It seems like the oil will slowly glug-glug out of the inclined lines and empty back into the block, leaving a big bubble to purger on start up. What do you guys do about that? Are there any start up lubrication issues from having the remote filter mounted higher? I can't imagine you would remote mount a filter, and have it at the same height down in the bilge(?)
Again, sorry to invade your forum, but thanks for any help. You guys gotta know more about this than any car guys. Maybe it will be something for your members to think about on their boats.
Last edited by chevelle-guy; 05-15-2010 at 07:05 PM.
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Welcome to the forum, any boater is welcome here. Excepet maybe blowboats. I have mine mounted a little lower than the stock location. Merc set them up from the factory on a bracket on the front of the engine by the exhaust manifold. I relocated mine away from the heat. If you found the oil thread you know to use better fittings and hoses.
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The thread I saw was a couple of years old, it wasn't fiter specific. Do I need to search out the thread? Yeah, I have read the lines rules... sweep elbows, short-as-possible line length, big as possible line ID.
Where do most boats like yours put their filters? I can't imagine changing the filter on a dual motor boat, if they were in the stock location. My ski boat is a traditional mid engine, so the filter is easy to grab at floor level.
How many guys use pre-lubers? Space under the hood is already at a premium, that's why mine is going to end up above stock level.
Where do most boats like yours put their filters? I can't imagine changing the filter on a dual motor boat, if they were in the stock location. My ski boat is a traditional mid engine, so the filter is easy to grab at floor level.
How many guys use pre-lubers? Space under the hood is already at a premium, that's why mine is going to end up above stock level.
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Mine are located above the valve covers, like the majority of boats on this forum. On the right side where exhaust where the triangle and 3 bolt holes are on the first pic. Never mind the arrow in the 2nd pic, that is just showing where my oil temp gage sender goes.
Last edited by Rookie; 05-16-2010 at 01:48 AM.
#8
Mine are like the above, front and above the V/C's.
Previous boat was at the rear of the valve covers.
Previous boat was at the rear of the valve covers.
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Last edited by US1 Fountain; 12-02-2011 at 10:59 AM.
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Amazing! And none of these have a check valve in the lines or anything like that? Or pre-lubers (other than the one mentioned)? How long does it take to build pressure once you start up?
I know filters have anti drain back features. Mine will be mounted hanging vertical downward like on a motor, so it couldn't drain out anyway. It's the lines trickling out of the lines that I am concerned about. This is how it's gunna look, unless someone has a logical reason not to. And no, I am not taping my -AN lines together I did that so I didn't muff the different fittings trying to find the right geometry combo.
I know filters have anti drain back features. Mine will be mounted hanging vertical downward like on a motor, so it couldn't drain out anyway. It's the lines trickling out of the lines that I am concerned about. This is how it's gunna look, unless someone has a logical reason not to. And no, I am not taping my -AN lines together I did that so I didn't muff the different fittings trying to find the right geometry combo.
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A real pre-lube system. Will build 20+psi in less than 3 seconds. Just hook up the electric motor to a switch on your dash and bingo, you have a full oiled/pressurized system. System includes a quick disconnect for changing your oil. No more drain pans under the oil pan.
http://www.keitheickert.com/detail.aspx?ID=6842
http://www.keitheickert.com/detail.aspx?ID=6842