BUP

iTrader: (9)

Hardin kit with the pulley already installed for the fix - next year there will be other options to buy and improved at that. I would still do a volume water output test after the install and after some time on the Hardin application. I would also compare the 2 down the road to see if anything has changed. I would like to see how well the Hardins hold up 7 to 12 years from now and the water volume results and water pressure results thru out the RPMs..

The AM kit is only good if you have front and back wear / scaring only. If you have any roughness or wear or scoring on the internal sides of your impeller housing you are asking for trouble. Also keep in mind the shorter and or smaller the impeller is the less volume of water it can flow. With that said, you already start out flowing less volume of water, then add any side scaring or side wear of the impeller housing - now you have a chance of running your engine not even in spec for water volume & the engineered cooling requirements that was designed originally into the mix. Again water volume output and water pressure testing are important especially changing things away from the original engineered design. We call it collecting water pressure and water flow volume data. Anyways just an fyi for whomever.

JS232

Thank you BUP. Good info. The scoring in the pump(where the AM washer shaped plate would fit) is'nt that bad. I do not see side wear and the impeller fits nice and tight in there but the scoring on the back side where a full plate would fit is really bad. I think Hardin M makes a great product. But in my situation if I understand correctly the only immediate benefit would come from the ss back plate and gasket provided (same fix as any AM kit using oem impeller). Other than that the only remaining option would be to have the rear housing machined with Brass back to a nice flat finish. I wonder how $ they would charge for it. Do I miss something?

Tractionless

I think this issue was the problem with my SB motor (different than thread) having lower water pressure than the port with a known new impeller. I pulled SB last night and the impeller looked fine but I know the boat sat 1.5 yrs. before I bought it, so I'm quite sure the tension was diminished. The OE plastic housing looked good; nonetheless, I replaced both with Hardin SS units.

BUP

iTrader: (9)

Gen VII water pump / housings are totally different and can have more problems that just scaring & wear. Its an all metal set up. Currently Merc has a back section that is different with a wear plate.

For the prior set up ---- I always change the plastic black housing, wear plate and the 2 O rings plus the bolt kit with a new impeller install - retail this whole kit is 98 bucks - and 98 bucks is dirt cheap if you own a boat by current standards. The O ring gaskets are important for a complete seal and help not to induce air into the water flow and or potential water leaks / drips. Just saying. Also improper winterizations crack the bridges internally of the black plastic housing - oh seen that many of times. Upon start up in the spring - it can rip the impeller blades off the impeller.

Naughty Kitty

I've been using the AM marine rebuild kits for a few years, the origianl impellers had a material composition issue, which appears to have been resolved. The sets I have installed now have (2) complete seasons on them and still work great. Most likely I will run one more season (three total) before pulling the pumps to inspect and replace. Their customer service is solid, and they stood behind the early problems...so I shot the attached video in appreciation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqnV-FJhRvg

onesickpantera

iTrader: (1)

We got two jc marine kits last year and they worked great. They had a spacer gasket that was the same thickness as the wear plate. So you could use stock impellers. Looks like their website is down now.

onesickpantera

iTrader: (1)

[email protected] is the email address I had for them.