TWO YOOTS

Purchaced a low hour pro built 502 last year which I believe to have been fine at the time.After installation I have had nothing but problems,mainly with water in the oil.The only change in configuration was that i used my Gil manifilds instead of purchacing the sellers K.Eickert manifolds.Ihave done everything I could think of to find the source including pressure testing the block and smoke testing it.I now have it out on a stand and with the pan off cannot find the leak.Intake and head gaskets replaced,heads sent out to be checked_no help.I did just recently notice a couple water droplets on my o2 sensor which I had recently installed(problem existed prior) I was told the problem was probably water reversion seeping past the rings and contaminating the oil.Too late to look down the exhaust.How common is it to have reversion cause this without getting hydro lock?It also has a crane ignition box and even with the rev limiter turned off it will break up at 4500 rpms even in nuetral.A/F ratio 11.2-12.2 doesnt really lean out with jet changes, power valves look good.Does this all add up to reversion,is it time to have RM Builder make me another cam or is my lack of wisdom causing me to overlook the obvious.

Sledge Hammer

What are the specs on your cam? RM Builder certainly is the right guy to tell you if your current cam is causing reversion.

Griff

Current cam specs????

It should not "break up" at any rpm until it floats the valveswhich should be around 6000-6500rpms

Mr Gadgets

what do the end of your tail pipes look like? if there are holes at the end of the inner pipe that water flows from , it will get sucked up the pipe, past the valves, rings and into the pan. Been there done that !
you need to extend the inner pipe past the outer pipe.

hoozeyurdaddy

how much water are we talking about? while the intake is off, check the valley of any cracks, just below where the heads sit. and also just above where the oil pan mounts. these are the common places for freeze damage. it takes a lot of time for the water to leak past the rings and into the oil without any hydrolocking.
with this block being new to you. I would check it close for any cracks. Pressure testing may not show you any leaking until the engine is warm.

Mr Gadgets

I ended up having milky oil running it on the test stand for 5mins. The Gil manifolds were built to enhance the chance of reversion. I could look up the pipe while the motor was running at an idle and see a water stream being pulled up the ID of the pipe. I was amazed. Fresh oil, 5min of run time and the oil was milk city. I then modifed the pipes so the inner pipe extened past the outer... and never had another problem with it. The cam was a wimpy one by today's standards, I dont remember what it was.
Now this may not be your problem. But it happened to me, so check the Gils out.. Could be the answer.
Dick

TWO YOOTS

One of the problems is i am trying to retain my sound advantage cutouts because of local noise restrictions.If I have to give them up and buy $600-$800 mufflers i will.My risers are very short, the inner pipe does pass the outer but only by 1/2".Did you also have Gils with the short risers 6-8" and extend the inner pipe or did you start out with a taller or longer riser.Would love to see a pic of your setup if you have one.

Griff

I'm 99% the short risers and cut outs are the problem and causing the reversion.

Mr Gadgets

My Gils were from a center motor in a tripple motor setup. I cut them down and extended the inner pipe by an inch maybe two. Then to the transom pipe with rubber hose. Later I went to dry exhaust and added muffs on the outside of the boat to quiet it down.
I agree with Griff.. the short elbows and silent choice is probably the problem.