Stereo install
08-06-2010, 10:57 AM
#41
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Air saws work great in boats, they are easy to get in to tight spots and as long as you have a few different tooth count blades for various materials you can make quick work out of allmost anything.
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08-06-2010, 05:08 PM
#43
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08-06-2010, 10:09 PM
#44
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I suggested adding caps to my system when talking to the Kinetik Tech support. They advised that I did not need caps for my application.
As far as distortion, I have none. I play full volume all the time, if you are in the boat while it is sitting still, it is ear piercing.
I ran 4 separate sets (+ and -) of 4ga., 20' long to the 4 PDX amps. I have had no problems.
As far as distortion, I have none. I play full volume all the time, if you are in the boat while it is sitting still, it is ear piercing.
I ran 4 separate sets (+ and -) of 4ga., 20' long to the 4 PDX amps. I have had no problems.
08-08-2010, 09:23 AM
#45
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A capacitor is a waste of time in a boat, even in cars, most people that are building big systems are playing heavy bass i.e. rock, rap, pop, etc. The cap never gets a chance to build up enough power to be helpful. Caps may help light dimming issues and other CAR related power issues but in a boat most playing gets done with the engines off and tied up or on the sand. And not having a cap is not going to destroy any equipment. Stick to making the fundamentals rock solid, same size ground as power, upgraded charging wire, good batteries, and not playing after a battery cuts out the system. I find that grouping batteries together lessens the play time and drops the summed voltage. I use 200amp or bigger relays instead of "switchers" to isolate each battery. When one goes low, I flip a switch on the dash and turn to a fresh battery then turn off the low battery. I have been doing car/marine audio for 12+ years and have always had the longest playing boats around. I do not sell caps to people, I sell better wire/altenators/and factory wire upgrades and that makes a HUGE difference. If people want to throw money at a cap thats fine but I feel they are old technology and are not effective enough for the money they cost.
08-10-2010, 11:44 AM
#47
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I dont have the system in my boat yet. That'll be a fall project. A friend has the same exact system in the same boat and it sounds better than anything I have ever heard IMO. I know there are better. But I know I will be happy.
08-11-2010, 08:45 AM
#48
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I have 2 SRM-29 Interstate batteries for the stereo only, and 1 SRM-24 for cranking and boat acc. The 200amp relays are basically similar to a starter relay, it allows you to use a rocker switch on the dash instead of opening the hatch or seat cushion to manually flip a switcher, much more convenient then the switcher and I think they flow more current (never tested that theory). I can email you a photo of a setup like that in a customers MasterCraft.
08-11-2010, 04:59 PM
#49
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I have 2 SRM-29 Interstate batteries for the stereo only, and 1 SRM-24 for cranking and boat acc. The 200amp relays are basically similar to a starter relay, it allows you to use a rocker switch on the dash instead of opening the hatch or seat cushion to manually flip a switcher, much more convenient then the switcher and I think they flow more current (never tested that theory). I can email you a photo of a setup like that in a customers MasterCraft.
I currently have 2 batteries and planned on adding 2 SRM-29 Interstate batteries.
Do you have a on board charger or do you rely on the alternator to charge them?
08-12-2010, 08:57 AM
#50
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If you want to see that relay setup I forgot there is a photo on my website in the gallery under the Master Craft XSTAR.
www.styleonecustommotoring.com
