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Old 09-26-2010, 08:36 AM
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Default oil filter lines crossed

guys, finally got my Brand new genVI 565 cuin motor in the boat, ran for less than 1/2 hour, noticed oil temp # 270, @ 3000+ rpm. (I did not exceed 3000) back to idle temps drop to 200, came back in to port, the builder has the center bypass removed and the filter pad blocked. I have him sending me the 30lb bypass for the filter pad, looking @ the remote filter lines, I noticed that they were reversed from the starboard, , outlet from remote filter adapt, going to the cooler instead of the block adapt. I noticed it rite away, ran back total run time less than an hour, I have since researched and switched tie filter lines to their correct route.
DO YOU THINK I HAVE CAUSED ANY DAMAGE TO THIS NEW ENGINE?, FRAM-HP-4 FILTER, when I corrected the lines, Idrained some oil. Looks good No metalics present.I plan on a new filter once I install the pad bypass, OR shouldI leave it plugged? Thanks Dave
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Old 09-26-2010, 09:14 AM
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Don't use a Fram Filter. Wix or K&N Filters
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:25 PM
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I don't think you would have hurt anything. I would change the oil and filter though.
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Scarab3DMC
guys, finally got my Brand new genVI 565 cuin motor in the boat, ran for less than 1/2 hour, noticed oil temp # 270, @ 3000+ rpm. (I did not exceed 3000) back to idle temps drop to 200, came back in to port, the builder has the center bypass removed and the filter pad blocked. I have him sending me the 30lb bypass for the filter pad, looking @ the remote filter lines, I noticed that they were reversed from the starboard, , outlet from remote filter adapt, going to the cooler instead of the block adapt. I noticed it rite away, ran back total run time less than an hour, I have since researched and switched tie filter lines to their correct route.
DO YOU THINK I HAVE CAUSED ANY DAMAGE TO THIS NEW ENGINE?, FRAM-HP-4 FILTER, when I corrected the lines, Idrained some oil. Looks good No metalics present.I plan on a new filter once I install the pad bypass, OR shouldI leave it plugged? Thanks Dave

Cut the filter open with a filter cutter. Once you get the "lid" cut off the filter. Take a razor knife and cut the paper element all the way around at both ends and then make one cut down the middle of the element. You will then be able to stretch it out like an accordian. Inspect both sides of it. I am not sure which side any particulate is going to be on since the lines were reversed. It should be normal to see a little bit of aluminum specs where the rings are seating in the pistons....etc. You may also still find some lint or silicone from the build. What you are looking for is anything that looks like bearing material. A little bit of superfine stuff that you cant really feel but glimmers in the light should be ok...but look for ANY chunks of anything. If you do find a chunk and you dont know what it is....see if a magnet will pick it up....that will at least let you know what it is made out of. I would also pour the oil that is left in the bottom of the filter (once you have cut the top off the filter and removed the paper element) through a couple of WHITE shop towels. I use the heavy duty one like a paper towel in your house just thicker. Examine that oil closely from any unusual particulate or large chunks of anything. Do that and report back your findings. 270 degrees didnt hurt anything....and cutting the filter will tell the rest of the tale. If all that looks good. I would change the oil every 10 hours and cut the filters for the next couple of changes to make sure you dont have something going on.
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Old 09-26-2010, 01:49 PM
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Also make sure that the oil flow is opposite of the water flow at the cooler.
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