454 (330hp) winter upgrades
#21
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CONCORD, CALIF
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I use the EMI Thunders, they are alluminum manifolds with stainless risers. The water is separated from the exhaust until the end. The log style were used mainly on jet boats so I am not sure what you have now. Do a little research on the different types, EMI, Dana, CMI, look at CP they have a few different brands also.
Last edited by mustangmark; 10-06-2010 at 08:55 PM.
#22
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I've been researching exhaust for awhile actually. I would really prefer to use a "header style" exhaust like lightnings or cmi but don't think I can fit them under the hatch. I'm gonna have to take some measurements. At this point I think I'm going to be limited to a "manifold style" exhaust of some sort. That's why I had mentioned Stainless Exhaust. Everything I've read or heard regarding them seems to be good. My 502 will redline at 5,800 so what ever I decide to go with, I'm going to have to make sure I have exhaust that will breath to at least that rpm. Any suggestions anyone has would be useful. Sorry for the confusion........I meant manifold style, not log style!
#23
Charter Member # 55
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Headers are not any taller than performance manifolds.
I would scrap everything in your plan that you can't use on the 502. Use the money that you were going to spend and get some CMI E-Tops.
There is certainly no way to tell what your WOT max rpms will be on the 502 engine until you have it done and its dyno'd.
Gil manifolds vs CMI Unitops
I would scrap everything in your plan that you can't use on the 502. Use the money that you were going to spend and get some CMI E-Tops.
There is certainly no way to tell what your WOT max rpms will be on the 502 engine until you have it done and its dyno'd.
Gil manifolds vs CMI Unitops
Last edited by Griff; 10-07-2010 at 01:16 AM.
#24
Charter Member # 55
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Griff, you really think that better heads, 1.7's, a new intake, a new prop, and a new exhaust is only worth 2-3 mph? I think the new heads will open up the rpm band 200-300 rpm, the add-ons should add a bit of power, and the combo should allow him to spin the 23's... That was my thinking anyhow...
Somewhere around 100hp increase depending on boost and how the engine is set up now.
#25
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I actually tossed around the idea of putting a 177 blower on it at one point and it's a good solution to getting some #'s rather cheaply but I have a couple hang up's with going that direction.
The first problem is clearance, I'm not sure I really want to cut into my upholstered engine hatch (I don't have a whole lot of room under the hatch as it sits so there's no way a blower would fit w/o doing some cutting). Also, I would have to move my rear seat forward 2-3 inches to clear the belt and build something to cover the gap at the end of the hatch where it would meet the back of the rear seat after I moved it forward.
The other issue which has always been on my mind is that I'm not to sure how the cast internals in the bottom end will hold up and I have already bought the holley carb to be n/a. You have a good point though!
The first problem is clearance, I'm not sure I really want to cut into my upholstered engine hatch (I don't have a whole lot of room under the hatch as it sits so there's no way a blower would fit w/o doing some cutting). Also, I would have to move my rear seat forward 2-3 inches to clear the belt and build something to cover the gap at the end of the hatch where it would meet the back of the rear seat after I moved it forward.
The other issue which has always been on my mind is that I'm not to sure how the cast internals in the bottom end will hold up and I have already bought the holley carb to be n/a. You have a good point though!
I know of a lot of people that have run boost on cast lowers, 496ho, 454no mag efi and the old 330's. Not one has blown up, and all have gained 7-11 mph. And you are not keeping this set-up right? Let her eat for a year...the used blower will be worth more than the used engine next year
Maybe find a used procharger remote mount?
#26
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http://www.procharger.com/M_engine.shtml
#27
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I agree. I wouldn't want to bolt a blower onto a 330 motor.
I also agree that an air-gap manifold is a good manifold for a 502, unless you want to get radical with it. You may want to discuss your Hp goals and what you're considering putting into your new motor with some people on here and base your 454 mods on your new motor. That said, I think an air-gap should be the better intake (more reliable, steadier power, more lower-end power, etc.) up to about 550 hp. Someone on here may have a more accurate #, but the RPM air-gap is a damn good intake.
Griff, you really think that better heads, 1.7's, a new intake, a new prop, and a new exhaust is only worth 2-3 mph? I think the new heads will open up the rpm band 200-300 rpm, the add-ons should add a bit of power, and the combo should allow him to spin the 23's... That was my thinking anyhow...
I also agree that an air-gap manifold is a good manifold for a 502, unless you want to get radical with it. You may want to discuss your Hp goals and what you're considering putting into your new motor with some people on here and base your 454 mods on your new motor. That said, I think an air-gap should be the better intake (more reliable, steadier power, more lower-end power, etc.) up to about 550 hp. Someone on here may have a more accurate #, but the RPM air-gap is a damn good intake.
Griff, you really think that better heads, 1.7's, a new intake, a new prop, and a new exhaust is only worth 2-3 mph? I think the new heads will open up the rpm band 200-300 rpm, the add-ons should add a bit of power, and the combo should allow him to spin the 23's... That was my thinking anyhow...
#28
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I actually tossed around the idea of putting a 177 blower on it at one point and it's a good solution to getting some #'s rather cheaply but I have a couple hang up's with going that direction.
The first problem is clearance, I'm not sure I really want to cut into my upholstered engine hatch (I don't have a whole lot of room under the hatch as it sits so there's no way a blower would fit w/o doing some cutting). Also, I would have to move my rear seat forward 2-3 inches to clear the belt and build something to cover the gap at the end of the hatch where it would meet the back of the rear seat after I moved it forward.
The other issue which has always been on my mind is that I'm not to sure how the cast internals in the bottom end will hold up and I have already bought the holley carb to be n/a. You have a good point though!
The first problem is clearance, I'm not sure I really want to cut into my upholstered engine hatch (I don't have a whole lot of room under the hatch as it sits so there's no way a blower would fit w/o doing some cutting). Also, I would have to move my rear seat forward 2-3 inches to clear the belt and build something to cover the gap at the end of the hatch where it would meet the back of the rear seat after I moved it forward.
The other issue which has always been on my mind is that I'm not to sure how the cast internals in the bottom end will hold up and I have already bought the holley carb to be n/a. You have a good point though!
#30
Charter Member # 55
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I don't think he should do anything other than the exhaust and maybe the MSD. The gains are not worth the $$ for the short term.