Buying a boat, what engine test should be done?
11-01-2010, 09:31 PM
#1
Buying a boat, what engine test should be done?
Looking at buying 10 year old boat with either a 454 Magnum or 502 Magnum.
Was going to have a compression and/or leak down test.
What should be done to check the condition of the engine?
Also, when buying private, how do I check if there is a lein or loan on the boat??
Was going to have a compression and/or leak down test.
What should be done to check the condition of the engine?
Also, when buying private, how do I check if there is a lein or loan on the boat??
11-02-2010, 12:20 AM
#3
Registered
If you are going to be doing a leakdown or compression test, you will pull the sparkplugs, make sure you look at them. A little rust on any of them can be indicative of a big problem with reversion/leaky riser or can show an overall lack of maintenance by the previous owner.
Definitely start the engine and sit in the engine compartment with it if possible.
Check the oil. Run the engine, then check it again.
Look at the overall cleanliness of the bilge. A dirty bilge is usually a sign of a poor maintenance plan, especially if it is full of oil.
If you have access to one, a lighted bore scope is very handy for looking at pistons and valves. They are pricey though.
Definitely start the engine and sit in the engine compartment with it if possible.
Check the oil. Run the engine, then check it again.
Look at the overall cleanliness of the bilge. A dirty bilge is usually a sign of a poor maintenance plan, especially if it is full of oil.
If you have access to one, a lighted bore scope is very handy for looking at pistons and valves. They are pricey though.
Charter Member
11-02-2010, 05:03 AM
#5
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Good Luck.
11-02-2010, 05:31 AM
#6
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iTrader: (4)
My recommendation is to make sure you go out and drive the boat. A lot of time this is not done. I'd agree on a price pending a sea trial. Run the boat and carefully look at it. While it's warm after the trial, look at the oil, make sure to check the drive fluid also. Then do a compression check. Easy to do yourself. If all that's alright I'd feel comfortable.
11-02-2010, 10:19 AM
#7
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If you want to save yourselft some time and money soon after getting it home here are some things that I would want to check before transfering money.
1. Inspect boat for signs of sinkage or water damage and stains inside the interior, gunnels, bilge where water may have been sitting for any length of time. Look for unusual stress cracks excluding the normal ones around radiuses. When most boats sink they incur stress cracks that are not consistent with normal operation.
2. Fuel – check contents of filter, ask when last changed, ask how long current load of fuel has been sitting in the tank(s), when was fuel last added?
3. Run engine (preferably under load) and take sample of oil and send to Caterpillar for analysis.
4. Leak down test (not compression) – pull all spark plugs out, inspect them and test cylinder leakage at tdc. Makes notes for % on each corresponding cylinder.
5. If leak test is good for all cylinders, pull of exhaust manifolds for visual of exhaust ports on both, the head and manifold itself. You’re looking for water trails on the inside of the exhaust that haven't yet caused any damage. If it is going to need exhaust replaced in the near future, now would be a good time to take that off the price.
6. Pull drive off and check for rubber leaks. Pull drain plugs out of drive and check magnets. Check color and smell of oil. If present, water will come out quickly before the entire lot of oil does. Check drive coupler and check splines on input shaft for knifing or lack of grease.
7. Inspect the bilge during AND after a run to look for oil leaks, antifreeze leaks, water leaks, broken hose clamps lying in bilge etc.
All the cosmetic stuff including broken door latches, damaged or faded carpet and sun damaged upholstery is also important in terms of what it costs to replace but these things are the very last thing to take interest in. A nice, covered, pretty boat is still very expensive to repair if the above doesn’t look good. This is true particularly for one who can not or does not do his own repairs. Upon arriving to check the boat out, notice if it has been stored with drive all or most of the way up. This stretches out the bellows and leaves them in the fully extended state. They usually die quicker this way. Based on common sense, if the owner did not know this than there are probably other things he didn’t know to do either… This is all just careful opinion.
1. Inspect boat for signs of sinkage or water damage and stains inside the interior, gunnels, bilge where water may have been sitting for any length of time. Look for unusual stress cracks excluding the normal ones around radiuses. When most boats sink they incur stress cracks that are not consistent with normal operation.
2. Fuel – check contents of filter, ask when last changed, ask how long current load of fuel has been sitting in the tank(s), when was fuel last added?
3. Run engine (preferably under load) and take sample of oil and send to Caterpillar for analysis.
4. Leak down test (not compression) – pull all spark plugs out, inspect them and test cylinder leakage at tdc. Makes notes for % on each corresponding cylinder.
5. If leak test is good for all cylinders, pull of exhaust manifolds for visual of exhaust ports on both, the head and manifold itself. You’re looking for water trails on the inside of the exhaust that haven't yet caused any damage. If it is going to need exhaust replaced in the near future, now would be a good time to take that off the price.
6. Pull drive off and check for rubber leaks. Pull drain plugs out of drive and check magnets. Check color and smell of oil. If present, water will come out quickly before the entire lot of oil does. Check drive coupler and check splines on input shaft for knifing or lack of grease.
7. Inspect the bilge during AND after a run to look for oil leaks, antifreeze leaks, water leaks, broken hose clamps lying in bilge etc.
All the cosmetic stuff including broken door latches, damaged or faded carpet and sun damaged upholstery is also important in terms of what it costs to replace but these things are the very last thing to take interest in. A nice, covered, pretty boat is still very expensive to repair if the above doesn’t look good. This is true particularly for one who can not or does not do his own repairs. Upon arriving to check the boat out, notice if it has been stored with drive all or most of the way up. This stretches out the bellows and leaves them in the fully extended state. They usually die quicker this way. Based on common sense, if the owner did not know this than there are probably other things he didn’t know to do either… This is all just careful opinion.
