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Old 11-13-2010, 07:50 PM
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Default Driveway Material

Double question. Need to replace the driveway. Installed concrete 18 years ago, but it's cracked in every single pallet. Im told if they lay proper wiring underneath, it'll prevent the cracking. So, the questions: Anyone have stamped concrete, and how's it holding up? I store a 5,500lbs boat/trailer on the driveway all summer. Most durable material to hold up to this? Any recommendations in long island?


thanks guys


EDIT: Wanted to maybe do an anchor brick design in the middle, any attempted this? Curious to see what it'd look like.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:19 PM
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You need re-bar in the concrete, reinforced concrete is
much stronger
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:25 PM
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Get the concrete that has fiber glass fibers mixed in. Very resistant to cracking and falling apart.
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Old 11-13-2010, 09:01 PM
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This house and driveway are down the street from me. I stopped by and checked it out,pretty cool stuff. I asked how durable it was and he pulled out a sledge hammer an took a few swings and nothing. As hard or harder than the gray stuff.

http://swamplot.com/the-recycled-gla...se/2009-01-14/
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Old 11-13-2010, 10:44 PM
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yes 6k psi mix with fibers,then re-bar and then if you have snow you can run radiant heat through it so you will never have to shovel it and ruin the finish of the stamped concrete and its surface..
we did it at my buddy's house, did the driveway,around the pool and the wrap around porch,,could be a blizzard out and the snow never sticks..

If you choose not to put heat through it it will look lile chit after the first winter from shoveling it, if you use salt it will distroy it to..
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Old 11-14-2010, 01:20 AM
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The secret to long lasting concrete is in the prep below it. Concrete is going to crack with big temp changes and freezes. The trick is making sure it cracks on the cut lines. Cut it 2" deep in about 8' squares. It will crack on the lines. Then make sure to caulk over the cracks so no water gets below it. If water gets down the cracks and freezes, it will definately lift and crack.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Griff
The secret to long lasting concrete is in the prep below it. Concrete is going to crack with big temp changes and freezes. The trick is making sure it cracks on the cut lines. Cut it 2" deep in about 8' squares. It will crack on the lines. Then make sure to caulk over the cracks so no water gets below it. If water gets down the cracks and freezes, it will definately lift and crack.
I agree.. I used to do driveways and sidewalks some years ago. I did my driveway about 18 years ago. Not 1 crack has formed. I used 4" wire to re-inforce it, Instead of the usual 4" thick, I dug out 2" deeper for the length of it. In the back, where I leave either my car,Tahoe or constantly have cars up on jackstands, I went 8" thick. Along the expansion joints, I cut out the top 1" or so, then filled the seams with Sonolalastic self leveling caulk,

http://www.dhcsupplies.com/aaadhesives/adhcaulksl1.htm
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:27 AM
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I am a concrete contractor in NY..dont do private but if you need an opinion could always stop by live on LI..but main thing is good 6" stone underneath, 6" concrete with wire will be fine if its done right..but also its getting cold i would wait till after winter ,concrete needs a good month to fully cure and by then we will have some frost..live with it till april..
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:12 PM
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Proper base prep, 5 in vs 4 in wire reinforced will take that weight easily. Stamp the side walks not what you drive on or it will look like crap if salt is on it after a couple of years. Just finished mine about 2 weeks ago. Nows a good time to get it done, most contractors are hungry in the fall.
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinny P
I agree.. I used to do driveways and sidewalks some years ago. I did my driveway about 18 years ago. Not 1 crack has formed. I used 4" wire to re-inforce it, Instead of the usual 4" thick, I dug out 2" deeper for the length of it. In the back, where I leave either my car,Tahoe or constantly have cars up on jackstands, I went 8" thick. Along the expansion joints, I cut out the top 1" or so, then filled the seams with Sonolalastic self leveling caulk,

http://www.dhcsupplies.com/aaadhesives/adhcaulksl1.htm
Did you saw cut your expansion joints or tool them? Thanks for the link on the self leveling sealant! Steve
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