GPM

[QUOTE=FogduckerIII;3334267]
The A/F reader I ordered comes with software and a laptop connection so I assume certain things can be changed.

Once again I may be wrong, but I think that just lets you set up the data logger.

28Eliminator

The LM2 will help you tons to see where you are at. I am no pro at A/F, but maybe someone on here can help once you have good numbers based on RPM's, A/F and boost levels. Details would be needed, but based on your statement of "My numbers on the dyno were 13.56 @ 3000rpm and dropped to 11.56 @ 4700rpm" depending on the numbers in between, that may not be far off. You are at 11.5 in boost and that is where your builder said you needed to be at.

28Eliminator

endeavour32, once you get the Innovate setup and see where you are, you will be able to adjust by changing your jets in the carburetor. Now what A/F should you be at? Too many variables for to me to help on a boat motor, but cars shoot for around 14.7 to get fuel milage.
FYI, that car is at cruising rpms of 2000 which is totally different in a boat.

FogduckerIII

iTrader: (-1)

I apologize, I did end up hijacking the thread....my bad......

GPM

14.7 in a boat might just pop the head gaskets, 11.5 at top end might wash the cylinders. 13.5 cruise 12.0 wot works for me, may not for you, timing, air temp, octane and boost change things.

jeffswav

With the aftermarket systems the fuel map is adjusted on the laptop. After you get the fuel map set, you set it to closed loop. The computer will add or subtract fuel to get it to your target O2. I set the correction limit to -5 / +15. You can also adjust things like accelaration enrichment (map & TPS), cold start, timing curve, and anything else you can think of. This took me a lot of hours of tuning to figure it out. You must be a patiant person and like to work on things untill you get it right.
Again, this is not the case for the Merc systems. You can monitor the O2 then get that info to somone that can reprogram it for you. There are a bunch of guys on here that can do it for you.

jeffswav

THIS THREAD HAS OFFICIALLY BEEN HYJACKED

formula 382 sr-1

iTrader: (3)

+ 1

STV_Keith

As mentioned, you first must start with a wideband O2 sensor of some sort. To get that into the motor, you need to have a bung welded through the water jacket, and into the exhaust stream. Depending on what motor/manifolds you have, you may be able to buy something like this, which goes between the manifold and riser: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGE...ssoriesQ5fGear

Many header manufacturers will include or add bungs to their systems...CMI, Lightning, Dana Marine, etc. Dana Marine will also install a bung in the 496mag/ho risers on an exchange basis for $115...just send your stock riser back as a core. (Ask for Don).

Once you have a safe place to put the sensor, you need something you like. There are quite a few systems on the market. The Dynojet WideBand 2 is one option. http://www.dynojetwb2.com You can connect a gauge or, for more data, you can connect the LCD display. With the LCD, you can record to an internal SD card (up to 1gb) all the parameters it records. It will read A/F ratio, and can be connected to RPM and a single analog 0-5v input (handy to use MAP if you're going to tune). With that, you'll have the data as to what to do.

Tuning is another thing though. I think the OP was carb'd, so he can just jet it. Not many end-user options for EFI applications, but I know of one that will be hitting the market in the next month.

HaxbySpeed

Fogducker don't even worry about the a/f numbers from the dyno. Check it out in the boat when it warms up and see where you're at. An engine running in a cold dyno cell with headers is worlds apart from an engine enclosed in a small hot humid engine compartment with wet exhaust. Also a dyno sweep test doesn't load your engine the same as the boat. You'll be in completely different parts of your fuel map on the water. It'll be all good