US1 Fountain

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Can I just simply swap my 20* V6 module with my 24* V8 module w/o moving distrib? Thunderbolt IV
I think I have a miss at mid rpms. I have replaced the coil, plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor with all new. It had this miss on the dyno with my stock ignition when cranked up and put under load, so we swaped it out for an MSD distrib, wires and ignition box. Miss was cured then. Only 2 things still original are my distrib and the V6 module for blower use. I'm thinking I can just plug in the V8 in order to eliminate 1 of these items as the culprut. Will this change my initial advance or full advance if I don't move the distrib? Only want to run it long enough to test.
Thanks

candyman35

US1 Fountain,
It will only effect your total advance. I had two bad ignition modules that only gave 20 degrees of advance. The third one was right at 24. Always check your total advance with a timing light.

Dan

jpclear

Yes, always check and set for the total advance at whatever total adv. you want at the rpm the module specs say it is at total adv. plus 200 rpm. Let the initial lie where it falls but record that figure for the next time you want to set it up at idle. I'm not aware of a Merc. V-6 Module with a 20 deg. advance. The V-6 mod. used in the T-bolt IV was a 14 deg. unit that yelded about 8 deg.(+or-) 2 deg. when used in a V-8. Unless you are going to a VERY mild engine, I wouldn't advise the 24 deg. mod. Instead , go to the 20 deg. V-8 mod. If you really want a 24 deg mod. (Merc pt.# 15248-A1) I have a perfectly good one to sell that I took off to replace with a 20 deg. unit for $100. PM or E-Mail me if interested. --- Jer

hotbeek

Sorry ! for the interruption. On the v-6 with 14* what rpm should full advance be attained ? 3000 ? or more ?

Plan on setting timing this weekend.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

jpclear, you are right. It is 14* Doh!

Just noticed the distrib had a slight film of oil inside of it on the bottom. It must have drained inside from the lower housing while it was out and more than likely laying on it's side during the rebuild this winter.

Hotbeek, I've always set my timing at 3500rpm, but then give it a quick rev just to make sure it doesn't advance any more.

27 FOUNTAIN

Jerry, good seeing you guys at Cumberland. Are you seeing any oil temps since the addition of the oil t-stat, I'm starting to get worried myself about oil temps.(not enough)

US1 Fountain

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Charles,
Yep, oil is running right around 210* from the pan during cruising with it hitting 250* on hard runs. The temp going back into the motor after the cooler is running about 50* less. No more condensation anymore finally. No just gotta work on the water temps. Goes up to 230 at idle speeds, then back down to 120. Water temp and pressure gauges act like a YO-YO while idleing with the stat going full open to full closed. Off idle it works great.
Going to try a regular t-stat vs the high flow stat. It acts like the high flow stats are sticking in the intake until the temp goes high enough to pop it loose. Tried 2 different ones. Both worked fine on the stove. Just throwing darts!

Can't believe you guys ran from Lees Ford. We just ran to Connely Bottom and plugged both my speedo pickup & drive shower with wood. I've seen less wood in the forrest.

Jerry