zerotact

I am still collecting parts to build up my stinger 202.
I really like the dart Iron Eagle heads, I've caught some good deals on the 165CC runner, or the 230CC runners..
I am building a 350 with all new forged internals, and an XM262H camshaft..

Are the 165's too small? Are the 230's too big?

Itsallgood995

You already have those heads or just considering them?

Why not the vortecs?

zerotact

Two reasons...
1. I really wanted my motor to be all new... nothing rebuild or used..

2. For the money I can get a set of vortecs to flow like this
.200" 136/109
.300" 193/158
.400" 239/198
.500" 273/208
.600" 289/214
.700" 293/219

TEXASRPM

The newer Bowtie Vortec Heads are stated to be the best iron SB heads from GM. Performance as good as many CNC aluminum heads right out of the box at fraction of the cost.

darkostoj

I don't care whose doing them a vortec head will NEVER flow those numbers.

When looking at flow numbers don't look at numbers past .5-.6 since you'll never see that much lift depending on the cam. You want the best flow numbers possible when comparing intake/exhaust runner size.

If two cylinder heads have the same flow numbers but one has a 195cc intake runner and the other has a 185cc intake runner, the one with smaller runner will outperform the larger one due to increased velicity due to the smaller orifice(air moves faster through the cylinder head). Thats why the bigger the head you go the less low range power/torque you have...because air flow speed through the cylinder head is low because the runners are so large.

Uncle Dave

Lets back up a bit.

What kind of drive system in a "stinger 202"?

How much does it weigh? If you get past 70-75 with a heavy boat it want to run anymore without hydraulic steering - have you provisioned for that?

What kind of HP and torque are you expecting to get at what RPM range. what kind of exhaust are you going to be running - the factory stuff will flatten your engine and choke it so you will need a good aftermarket exhaust.

Aluminum vs Iron heads will either save you possible detonation if you get a tank of lousy gas (always a possibility with a boat) r let you run more static compression to begin with.

If you have the short block apart you might as well build in some bigger cubes.

I have much experience with small blocks and boats.

Uncle Dave

HaxbySpeed

The AFR 180's offer excellent bang for the buck on a 350. You can check out the dyno sheet on this thread.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...i-upgrade.html

Uncle Dave

That is a nice little package for a 350. Leave the bottom end in the boat and slap on a new top. Probably the way for this guy to go.

I see the base reading is at 3400.
Was there an issue stabilizing at 3K?

I spent a little more money on a this 406 combo and its pretty neat for a few bones as well. Idles like a kitten.

Raylar

Uncle Dave:

Those are excellent numbers and results from a 406 small block!
If this boater can get at or close to those numbers from his small block using your specs and examples, he will be a very happy camper!
Learn and profit from someone else's excellent design and results and you will be way ahead, don't re-invent the wheel!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

HaxbySpeed

No it was great down low and idles strong. That dyno didn't have enough water supply for long pulls. The 406 is a great combo the 434 works good too. I like small blocks