Engines dies when shifting, need help here
05-25-2011, 05:56 PM
#12
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[QUOTE=zx14k;3409867]i have about the same problem with 2 different boat.first one was a bad connection behind the dash for the ignition switch as soon as i give some thhrottle engine die cause of more vibrations.second one, moisture in the fuse box,voltage was fine at the ignition switch at 650 rpm but lose it at 1200 rpm.all new fuses and contact cleaner at the fuse box and all is fine.
note in both case it appen to me early in the spring.[/QUOTE
i think you did not read my post but anyway try this it is the way i find my problems:take a long wire direcly from the battery to the ignition switch and bypas the kill switch this way you will see if you have something bad in the dash or in the fuse box.
note in both case it appen to me early in the spring.[/QUOTE
i think you did not read my post but anyway try this it is the way i find my problems:take a long wire direcly from the battery to the ignition switch and bypas the kill switch this way you will see if you have something bad in the dash or in the fuse box.
05-26-2011, 04:40 AM
#13
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[QUOTE=zx14k;3412808]
Ok, thanks, yes I read your post, and I'm going in that direction now. Thanks for your tips, will try that.
i have about the same problem with 2 different boat.first one was a bad connection behind the dash for the ignition switch as soon as i give some thhrottle engine die cause of more vibrations.second one, moisture in the fuse box,voltage was fine at the ignition switch at 650 rpm but lose it at 1200 rpm.all new fuses and contact cleaner at the fuse box and all is fine.
note in both case it appen to me early in the spring.[/QUOTE
i think you did not read my post but anyway try this it is the way i find my problems:take a long wire direcly from the battery to the ignition switch and bypas the kill switch this way you will see if you have something bad in the dash or in the fuse box.
note in both case it appen to me early in the spring.[/QUOTE
i think you did not read my post but anyway try this it is the way i find my problems:take a long wire direcly from the battery to the ignition switch and bypas the kill switch this way you will see if you have something bad in the dash or in the fuse box.
05-31-2011, 04:00 AM
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Anyway, i can't understand how these defects can make BOTH engines behave like this at the same time!?!
As I described earlier, both engines starts and runs excellent in neutral, all the time. Then when engaging drive on one of the engines, that engine dies. The other still running steady in neutral. Then trying to engage the other drive, it also dies. And stop instantly. The props just makes 1/8 turn. I have tried everything, for example engaging both drives at the same time, also with increased idle, also with only one engine running. Also tried reverse, but no difference.
AND suddenly it works again. I mean BOTH engines works again.
So, what except the fuel tank is common for both engines? Is there a vibration switch, or any other electrical system? Checked the kill switches, they are OK.
05-31-2011, 08:05 AM
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I had a similar issue and it ended up being the carb was to lean at idle, I backed my screws out a 1/4 turn to richenn it up a little and it was fine after that
05-31-2011, 10:00 AM
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Ok, but my problem comes and goes. And at exactly the same time for both engines. Engines runs perfect, very good low-end torque. So it hasn't anything with engine setting to do. The problem seemes "digital". When applying drives engines just dies. Instantly. Then putting shift in neutral and engines starts immediately which means engine has perfect mixture when killed, i.e. seemes like something makes the ignition fail...
05-31-2011, 10:39 AM
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Beak botr
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Please test the shift interrupt switches that MustangMark commented on above. The interrupts could be corroded/failing causing a problem now and then.
What these switches do is turn off the engine for just a moment in time when the shifter is pushed into gear. These are nothing more than tiny micro limit switches that do have a life, and once the number of cycles is hit and/or corrosion gets to the internal contacts it is done. Could be your moment in time is quite lengthy. For a test, just bypass the interrupt on one engine to see if the problem is solved, be very careful the idle speed on that engine is as low as it will go to avoid hurting the drive when doing the test. Or if you would trust a voltmeter, connect it across the contacts and see if the voltage is interrupted only shortly when shifting from neutral to drive with the key in the on position but the engine not running. This test with the voltmeter would work best with one the old school simpson analog meter where you can watch the needle move, as the interrupt may be too quick for a digital display to catch clearly.
What these switches do is turn off the engine for just a moment in time when the shifter is pushed into gear. These are nothing more than tiny micro limit switches that do have a life, and once the number of cycles is hit and/or corrosion gets to the internal contacts it is done. Could be your moment in time is quite lengthy. For a test, just bypass the interrupt on one engine to see if the problem is solved, be very careful the idle speed on that engine is as low as it will go to avoid hurting the drive when doing the test. Or if you would trust a voltmeter, connect it across the contacts and see if the voltage is interrupted only shortly when shifting from neutral to drive with the key in the on position but the engine not running. This test with the voltmeter would work best with one the old school simpson analog meter where you can watch the needle move, as the interrupt may be too quick for a digital display to catch clearly.
06-02-2011, 02:55 PM
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Please test the shift interrupt switches that MustangMark commented on above. The interrupts could be corroded/failing causing a problem now and then.
What these switches do is turn off the engine for just a moment in time when the shifter is pushed into gear. These are nothing more than tiny micro limit switches that do have a life, and once the number of cycles is hit and/or corrosion gets to the internal contacts it is done. Could be your moment in time is quite lengthy. For a test, just bypass the interrupt on one engine to see if the problem is solved, be very careful the idle speed on that engine is as low as it will go to avoid hurting the drive when doing the test. Or if you would trust a voltmeter, connect it across the contacts and see if the voltage is interrupted only shortly when shifting from neutral to drive with the key in the on position but the engine not running. This test with the voltmeter would work best with one the old school simpson analog meter where you can watch the needle move, as the interrupt may be too quick for a digital display to catch clearly.
What these switches do is turn off the engine for just a moment in time when the shifter is pushed into gear. These are nothing more than tiny micro limit switches that do have a life, and once the number of cycles is hit and/or corrosion gets to the internal contacts it is done. Could be your moment in time is quite lengthy. For a test, just bypass the interrupt on one engine to see if the problem is solved, be very careful the idle speed on that engine is as low as it will go to avoid hurting the drive when doing the test. Or if you would trust a voltmeter, connect it across the contacts and see if the voltage is interrupted only shortly when shifting from neutral to drive with the key in the on position but the engine not running. This test with the voltmeter would work best with one the old school simpson analog meter where you can watch the needle move, as the interrupt may be too quick for a digital display to catch clearly.
06-06-2011, 01:53 PM
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Ok, have been out a couple of times now. Everything working great, no problems what so ever, engines running very nice , tried WOT today, 75mph @ 5500rpm 
So what was the problem? Fuel, ignition? I'm not sure, but probably ignition. I found three things that I took care of. First, port ignition key switch was not working properly. Second, ground wire from port alternator was off. Third, there was a very poor clamping with alot of corrosion at two of the three batteries (+).
I cleaned every connection i could find, I replaced all fuses. And I emptied the fuelfilters/separators twice.
Thank you guys for your valuable input. As usual
So what was the problem? Fuel, ignition? I'm not sure, but probably ignition. I found three things that I took care of. First, port ignition key switch was not working properly. Second, ground wire from port alternator was off. Third, there was a very poor clamping with alot of corrosion at two of the three batteries (+).
I cleaned every connection i could find, I replaced all fuses. And I emptied the fuelfilters/separators twice.
Thank you guys for your valuable input. As usual
06-06-2011, 02:25 PM
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Beak botr
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Yep, my post confirms me as a true DA, I knew you had Bravo's and the little switches are so you can't start in gear, I have TRS's now and those switches are on the top of the tranny. But I did have an Alpha boat before this one and it had the switches similar to the bravo ones. Just got the interrupt stuff stuck in my head for some reason.
