Just changed the oil/filter and the oil pressure is higher than normal
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JGB,
I'd be surprised if the factory changed the stock senders. I bet you'll see the same the same increase in pressure I saw if you change them. I changed mine because one of my senders started to go bad. I usually change my oil at 20 hours unless I see a 2-3 lbs. pressure drop which indicates time to change the oil early.
Dan
I'd be surprised if the factory changed the stock senders. I bet you'll see the same the same increase in pressure I saw if you change them. I changed mine because one of my senders started to go bad. I usually change my oil at 20 hours unless I see a 2-3 lbs. pressure drop which indicates time to change the oil early.
Dan
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Formulafastech,
I agree about the electric gauges. Now you have me curious. When I change the other sender I'm going to put a mechanical gauge on to check. I know many Drag racers that preach high volume not high pressure. Thanks for the insight.
Dan
I agree about the electric gauges. Now you have me curious. When I change the other sender I'm going to put a mechanical gauge on to check. I know many Drag racers that preach high volume not high pressure. Thanks for the insight.
Dan
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JGB,
Not sure if anyone had mentioned this to you yet, but when installing a new oil filter, dip your finger in some oil and apply it liberaly around the rubber seal of the new filter you're installing. Then all you need to do is HAND TIGHTEN the new filter on the threads. This way the next time you go to remove the filter it should be much easier to remove.
Not sure if anyone had mentioned this to you yet, but when installing a new oil filter, dip your finger in some oil and apply it liberaly around the rubber seal of the new filter you're installing. Then all you need to do is HAND TIGHTEN the new filter on the threads. This way the next time you go to remove the filter it should be much easier to remove.
Last edited by KAAMA; 06-03-2002 at 07:45 PM.
#15
The pressure readings I quoted were with a high volume not a high pressure pump. I agree that too high of oil pressure is bad because it can push the oil too fast through the bearings and cause excess drag on the cam gear. But I still go by the 10/1000 rule of thumb. I have never had a bearing go out with this rule and I have run engines very hard in the past.
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Originally posted by KAAMA
JGB,
Not sure if anyone had mentioned this to you yet, but when installing a new oil filter, dip your finger in some oil and apply it liberaly around the rubber seal of the new filter you're installing. Then all you need to do is HAND TIGHTEN the new filter on the threads. This way the next time you go to remove the filter it should be much easier to remove.
JGB,
Not sure if anyone had mentioned this to you yet, but when installing a new oil filter, dip your finger in some oil and apply it liberaly around the rubber seal of the new filter you're installing. Then all you need to do is HAND TIGHTEN the new filter on the threads. This way the next time you go to remove the filter it should be much easier to remove.
thanks kaama, i knew about that. i had watched my mechanic change the oil before so i picked that up from him. even though he lubed the seal i still had a tough time taking it off this time around. but i am pretty sure he used a filter wrench to tighten it. so i guess next time around it will be a pain again cause i used the filter wrench to tighten it also. i did lube the seals though.
next time i'll just hand tighten and hope it comes off easy for the following oil change.
thanks,
james
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Originally posted by Tinkerboater
The pressure readings I quoted were with a high volume not a high pressure pump. I agree that too high of oil pressure is bad because it can push the oil too fast through the bearings and cause excess drag on the cam gear. But I still go by the 10/1000 rule of thumb. I have never had a bearing go out with this rule and I have run engines very hard in the past.
The pressure readings I quoted were with a high volume not a high pressure pump. I agree that too high of oil pressure is bad because it can push the oil too fast through the bearings and cause excess drag on the cam gear. But I still go by the 10/1000 rule of thumb. I have never had a bearing go out with this rule and I have run engines very hard in the past.
hi tinkerboater, i think the 10/1000 is valid. the 496 mags max out at 4800 rpm. so on the high end i should be looking at 48 psi. which makes my oil pressure fall righ tinto those parameters.
thanks again, i feel a sense of accomplishment after the fact. i have never changed the oil personally in a any machine with the exception of a riding lawn mower. At least i have my priorities straight with the interest i am showing in the maintenance of my boat. hopefully later on i will buy the service manual for the engines and try to tackle some other minor jobs as they arise.
currrently i still need to replace the fuel filters and noticed i have a small leak in the closed cooling system that needs to be addressed. i am hoping it is as simple as tightening a fitting. but i would need to tinker a bit to see exactly what the heck is going on with that.
are there any little secrets to getting leverage in hard to reach places in order to remove the fuel filters?
thanks again,
james
Last edited by JGB; 06-03-2002 at 10:36 PM.
#18
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regarding oil filter tightness.
I would consider loosening them NOW and retighten to hand snug, then 1/4 turn. do this before the tightened ones' seals swell or you will be in the same boat (no pun intended) as this last time. You will probably still use the filter wrench next time t o remove , but they will come off much easier without blowing a forehead blood vessel like I about did this spring.
another trick told to me by Waterfoul, use one of those plastic grocery bags. open it up ontop of the exhaust, yet under your filter, then unscrew and drop the filter into the bag. "NO MESS, no burning oil smell first time out" much easier/cleaner than 10 oil soaked rags. and you don't even have to get your hands greasy
I would consider loosening them NOW and retighten to hand snug, then 1/4 turn. do this before the tightened ones' seals swell or you will be in the same boat (no pun intended) as this last time. You will probably still use the filter wrench next time t o remove , but they will come off much easier without blowing a forehead blood vessel like I about did this spring.
another trick told to me by Waterfoul, use one of those plastic grocery bags. open it up ontop of the exhaust, yet under your filter, then unscrew and drop the filter into the bag. "NO MESS, no burning oil smell first time out" much easier/cleaner than 10 oil soaked rags. and you don't even have to get your hands greasy
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thanks rambunctious, i will try it next time out. i have spare oil filters so if i can get them off this time. i agree it would be well worth it.
thanks
james
thanks
james
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Could be filter used. Many or most have a bypass valve in the filter or engine. If you use a cheap filter the bypass valve may have opened and allowing more oil through. Keep in mind if the bypass valve opens to soon, your not getting any filtration.
Recommend using a High Quality Oil filter such as the Baldwin B279
Recommend using a High Quality Oil filter such as the Baldwin B279