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Valve cover caps milky after 30 min on hose - condensation or something else?

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Valve cover caps milky after 30 min on hose - condensation or something else?

Old 06-28-2011, 05:41 AM
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What temp is your Thermostat ?
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:04 AM
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I have no stats and see what you have there consistently. I don't run the boat very hard to I get that on a consistent basis. it NEVER gets in the oil - my oil always looks brand new after 25 hours.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:13 AM
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I had similar issue, after you run the boat take a flash light and look up the exhaust pipes see if the water is reverting back into the minifolds, (you will see the beads of water and how far back they are traveling), i had to extend my inner pipes ten inches.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:16 AM
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Pantera what headers and pipes? ..seems all Shortys have this problem and Dry pipes "never"
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Rookie
Just to be safe, keep an eye on the dipstick. Make sure it is not getting higher.
I'll be watching like a hawk for the next 50 hours or so. Problem is, my dipstick is a royal beotch to get back in the tube, but oh well...
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pantera232
I had similar issue, after you run the boat take a flash light and look up the exhaust pipes see if the water is reverting back into the minifolds, (you will see the beads of water and how far back they are traveling), i had to extend my inner pipes ten inches.
I saw your thread, and I was totally amazed that you had to do that with those cam specs. My Lightnings have the divorced collectors that have an inner pipe that extends to within about 6 inches of the transom. My cam has 222/230 @ .050 and 114* LSA, so I would be surprised if it would tend towards reversion, but after reading your post, I guess anything is possible. Trouble is, I have muffled tips (Corsa) that do not allow me to look down the pipes.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Face It
What temp is your Thermostat ?
I'm not sure, because I just put the t-stat housing back on without pulling it out. I thought I was running a 140*, but it may be a 160* because it was consistently showing 150* - 160* on the gauge.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman II
I'm not sure, because I just put the t-stat housing back on without pulling it out. I thought I was running a 140*, but it may be a 160* because it was consistently showing 150* - 160* on the gauge.
My motor did the exact same thing. alum heads, and alum intake + cold water = condensation.

I added a water pressure gauge, oil Temp Gauge, and Oil thermostat, and Water pressure relief valve, and finally got a 3 day weekend in with no issues what so ever!

What I found out was

1. My oil never got over 150 degrees, so I adeded the thermostat

2. my water pressure was over 35 psi at WOT, so I blew an intake gasket. With the crossover I think the water psi was high enough that the water went through the motor so fast, it never had time to heat up.

Now I finally get 150 degree water temps. after I put the by pass in, and everything seems fixed.

Just in time for the boat to sit in the garage while my son races all weekend. Why the PHUCK do people plan things on holiday weekends?!!!

Last edited by cabin fever; 06-28-2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:45 AM
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I have a sandwich adapter for the oil filter that has a T-stat. Don't have the oil temp gauge hooked up yet. Hopefully this weekend. Will be adding a WP gauge as well. Where did you get yours? Do they come with the line and adapters for the engine?
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Old 06-28-2011, 09:58 AM
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Pretty sure I got mine from Hardin Marine.

I already had the hose ran from teh previous owner using CMI switchable exhaust (air operated) so I used that line, and bought all the fittings from our local hardware store. At idle or on the hose it barley shows any water psi, at wot Throttle it was up there pegging the gauge.

Last edited by cabin fever; 06-28-2011 at 10:01 AM.
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