Raylar

Stevesxm:

Could not agree with you more about Fram high performance or Fram racing filters. Been probably hundreds of thousands of those particular oil filters used in Marine, High performance and Racing applications with total success. Having said that I have also cut open and seen a few of the standard inexpensive standard automotive Fram oil filters with cheap paper elements and cardboard ends where they have split and broken media paper elements with almost no real filtering going on with some even having paper media and cardboard ends clogging up top of filter return holes and passages. With Fram it's what type and number you buy and use that seems to be very important. Buy the simple cheap automotive filter versus the HP series Fram or Fram racing filters and you pretty much get what you pay for.
Fram is not alone with this problem of cheap paper elements and ends as a good many other filter manufacturers make these cheap (not worth the price) in my mind filters.
Just my two cents and always questionable opinion.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

stevesxm

you are right, of course. mine was just a knee jerk reaction to a generic condemnation of what i know to be a very very good company. in this single and unique instance, their R+D and manufacturing operation was actually in my home town and i got to walk thru there and talk to the engineers and work with them on a project i had going and i found them terrific. so many places that i dealt with had their engineering staff full of marketing and sales guys. not fram. therese were the old school, pocket protector , white shirt guys that if you asked them a question , you got the numbers and the math instantly.

i have a lot of respect for them. and , as i said, i'm certain you are correct about street stuff vs their HP stuff. by this time, i'm sure the bean counters have siezed control and the stuff probably comes from china anyway...like everyone elses consumer grade products.

stevesxm

i liked the mobil 1 synthetics and , in my OPINION, there are no lubricants better than those. you can argue this to death but i have never used any lubrucant mad eby anyone else that ever performed even close to how the M1 synthetics performed in the real world. as for filters... any quality name brand performance graded filter is as good as any other. again... you can agrue this until you get tired of doing and the difference in micron rating isn't going to be the difference in you motor living and dieing. oil change intervals will. correct oil and water temp will, correct air fuel ratio will , correct warm up and cool down will, correct long storage procedures will.

all the filter does is collect the trash that YOU caused to be there by running the motor too rich or too cold or too hot or any number of other things that are self inflicted. its like blaming the garbage can for your wifes lousy cooking.

Ironmanwb

When did you eat at my house?

Thanks I have been leaning to changing to Mobil 1 full synthetic.

jeffswav

The standard Fram filter sucks, cut one open compare, it uses paper media and poorly constructed. Now the racing filters may be different, so a general statment about all Fram filters may not be true.
I used the amsoil AE 25 for several years, this year I am using the larger one, cant remember the number. Its huge almost 2 quarts of oil.

stevesxm

this oil filter discussion and debate is the same as the oil line size debate. meaningless. what is necessaryin in a technical sense for application is all thats required. everything after that is nonsense. for example... there are a 100 people on this board that have -16 oil lines... 1 " inside diameter going into ports that are 3/8 in dia. its the same with filters. i have over a career installed , maybe 15,000 or 20,000 oil filters. i have never ever once, in my life seen one fail. i have never ever once seen one be the proximate cause of any failure. i have cut apart filters after motors have lost every bearing inside yet the drty sump pump was sufficient to maintain pressure while the filter elements were coated with bearing. why ? becaus eif the filter clogs, the bypass does its job. if you say that the frams explode their paper elemnts then i have to wonder what the hell you are doing to them. you are talking about requiring a differential pressure on both sides of the media sufficient to deform the screen etc. you are also suggesting that every other cheapo junk filter you buy for 3 bucks is somehow immune to this. nonsense again. the filter is just that... a particulate accumulator. nothing more. little pieces go thru. big pieces get caught. there is some restriction but it is inconsequential because pressure is constant in all parts of the system and the flow velocity is actually quite low in a relative sense. so you can make this into magic if you want... but it isn't. you COULD ( empasize could as opposed to should) walk into anywhere at any time of day or night and buy any brand of oil filter made by anyone that is the correct size and configuration for your motor and if your motor is mechanically sound , that filter will adequate to the task. but like all things some are better quality than other and as such will tolerate extremes better than lesser quality ones will. there is your choice. pay a little more for some additional capability you may or may not ever need. but that's a choice. not a requirement. my 502's made 25 psi at idle hot and 50 at speed. do i need some magic hi zoot filter for that ? no. but there are people on here making 1500 hp and need 120 psi and extreme filter media to control contamination... different problem/different solution required . just like the oil lines... engineering rule number two : " what's right is right and everything else is wrong to some degree"

AIRFOIL292

I have the same issue,My engines are rebuilt with about 10 hrs.First start oil pressure 55psi.gets warmed up goes to 40psi.Running 3500-4000 42psi hot 220F.Idle 20psi hot.cools down back to 35-40psi....