Cone Clutch and Lube Question
08-20-2011, 11:58 AM
#1
Cone Clutch and Lube Question
Two years ago a friend had a problem with his drive not going into forward, especially after a long run on plane. But would go into reverse fine. Well, we looked all the linkage over and found the cable to the drive had some play and replaced it. After doing some research it appeared if it wasn't a cable/linkage then it was probably his cone clutch. At the time we also replaced the fluid and I talked him into switching to Merc Hi-Perf lube. Worked great the rest of that year and all of last year. A couple weeks ago it started doing the exact same thing.
He drained the lube and no metal, this time he used Amsoil full synthetic gear lube as someone told him it was better. He took it out and the problem is MUCH worse now. When he puts in it gear the prop does spin but very slowly. So, my guess is the cone clutch is slipping.
Here's my confusion. I'm sure it was his cone clutch two years ago as well, slipping after the drive got hot after a long run. So, why would it work fine for almost two seasons? Also, is it possible the full synthetic could make the problem worse?
He drained the lube and no metal, this time he used Amsoil full synthetic gear lube as someone told him it was better. He took it out and the problem is MUCH worse now. When he puts in it gear the prop does spin but very slowly. So, my guess is the cone clutch is slipping.
Here's my confusion. I'm sure it was his cone clutch two years ago as well, slipping after the drive got hot after a long run. So, why would it work fine for almost two seasons? Also, is it possible the full synthetic could make the problem worse?
08-20-2011, 12:25 PM
#3
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
iTrader: (1)
I am running the same/original cone clutch my original drive came with 11 years ago, had every kind of oil in it and never had that problem. I would dissassemble it and take a look, you can flip it over too while apart, Smitty
Blackhawk-did you order a rmk polaris-I see a user on sled tracker from your area tagged "Blackhawk"
Blackhawk-did you order a rmk polaris-I see a user on sled tracker from your area tagged "Blackhawk"
08-20-2011, 12:41 PM
#4
Smitty, I forgot to mention this is an OMC King Cobra. I agree we need to take it apart and he is getting tools lined up. I'm 99.9% sure its the clutch. I'm just baffled it worked fine for almost two seasons. And even more baffled that it got much worse after switching to full synthetic, unless it's a huge coincidence.
And no on the sled. I'm still riding my 10 year old ProX. My buddy was just giving me **** about it yesterday asking me when I was going to upgrade my "dinosaur". I told him when his new 800 could beat my 10 year old 600.
And no on the sled. I'm still riding my 10 year old ProX. My buddy was just giving me **** about it yesterday asking me when I was going to upgrade my "dinosaur". I told him when his new 800 could beat my 10 year old 600.
08-20-2011, 10:37 PM
#5
Banned
iTrader: (9)
The cone clutch could be part of the problem here - they become glazed and you can take valve lapping compound and deglaze them. I know you are talking about OMC King Cobra outdive but will pass this info on. We have done this in the past when OMC products were around and was successful along with some Mercruiser Bravo apps as well.
Volvo Penta before the SX and DP outdrives they had a Service Bulletin about this same problem & procedure. Volvo's outdrive from 1994 to current is not wise to do this procedure because the cone clutch has a Nedox coating on it & if you strip away that coating you will have problems. OMC / Cobra outdrive merge with Volvo in 1994. The King Cobra for OMC started in 1989 and ended in 1993. Hopes this helps
Volvo Penta before the SX and DP outdrives they had a Service Bulletin about this same problem & procedure. Volvo's outdrive from 1994 to current is not wise to do this procedure because the cone clutch has a Nedox coating on it & if you strip away that coating you will have problems. OMC / Cobra outdrive merge with Volvo in 1994. The King Cobra for OMC started in 1989 and ended in 1993. Hopes this helps
Last edited by BUP; 08-20-2011 at 10:55 PM.
08-21-2011, 12:54 PM
#6
The cone clutch could be part of the problem here - they become glazed and you can take valve lapping compound and deglaze them. I know you are talking about OMC King Cobra outdive but will pass this info on. We have done this in the past when OMC products were around and was successful along with some Mercruiser Bravo apps as well.
Volvo Penta before the SX and DP outdrives they had a Service Bulletin about this same problem & procedure. Volvo's outdrive from 1994 to current is not wise to do this procedure because the cone clutch has a Nedox coating on it & if you strip away that coating you will have problems. OMC / Cobra outdrive merge with Volvo in 1994. The King Cobra for OMC started in 1989 and ended in 1993. Hopes this helps
Volvo Penta before the SX and DP outdrives they had a Service Bulletin about this same problem & procedure. Volvo's outdrive from 1994 to current is not wise to do this procedure because the cone clutch has a Nedox coating on it & if you strip away that coating you will have problems. OMC / Cobra outdrive merge with Volvo in 1994. The King Cobra for OMC started in 1989 and ended in 1993. Hopes this helps
08-21-2011, 01:12 PM
#7
Banned
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We have not seen a King Cobra in years as they are a rare bird or should say snake. Trying to be funny here.
Even the original OMC Cobra is not seen that often. Current OMC cone clutch not a 100% sure to say no coating but years back no coating on the cone for the OMC ones.
I think that would still hold true today when ordering a new. You can tell if it has a coating on it - I know you can with the Volvos.
It is always wise if doing gears and all to buy new complete sets so they match up when breaking in. The break in is important for longevity also a 6 to 10 hour gear oil change is too.
Also OMC always had problems with their shift cables and their control boxes did not hold up well over time. I would also check the shifting parts of this app. Hope this helps
Even the original OMC Cobra is not seen that often. Current OMC cone clutch not a 100% sure to say no coating but years back no coating on the cone for the OMC ones.
I think that would still hold true today when ordering a new. You can tell if it has a coating on it - I know you can with the Volvos.
It is always wise if doing gears and all to buy new complete sets so they match up when breaking in. The break in is important for longevity also a 6 to 10 hour gear oil change is too.
Also OMC always had problems with their shift cables and their control boxes did not hold up well over time. I would also check the shifting parts of this app. Hope this helps
08-21-2011, 06:30 PM
#8
Thanks again BUP. He did double check all the cables, linkages, brackets, etc and they are good.
He pulled the U-joint assembly out so we could see the clutch, and when we used the shift mechanism to shift into reverse the prop would lock up within a 1/4 turn of the prop(clutch would grab). Shift into forward and you could spin the prop 2-3 full revolutions before it would grab. Shifting fork was moving the clutch into fully seted position. So it has to be the cone clutch.
We pulled the assembly out but that was s far as we could get without special tools. Hopefully he will have the holding fixture tomorrow so we can pull the clutch and gears off the shaft. I'm betting the forward side of the clutch is glazed big time. May try the lapping route if there are no grooves, etc.
He pulled the U-joint assembly out so we could see the clutch, and when we used the shift mechanism to shift into reverse the prop would lock up within a 1/4 turn of the prop(clutch would grab). Shift into forward and you could spin the prop 2-3 full revolutions before it would grab. Shifting fork was moving the clutch into fully seted position. So it has to be the cone clutch.
We pulled the assembly out but that was s far as we could get without special tools. Hopefully he will have the holding fixture tomorrow so we can pull the clutch and gears off the shaft. I'm betting the forward side of the clutch is glazed big time. May try the lapping route if there are no grooves, etc.
