Winterizing 500HP???
10-01-2011, 08:57 AM
#11
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Location: Rochester, NY
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10-01-2011, 01:55 PM
#12
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Yeah! Finally someone who understands that air does not freeze. Drain it always.
10-01-2011, 02:23 PM
#13
10-02-2011, 11:15 AM
#14
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It is not insurance to do something that increases the chance of cracking your block.
Drain it totally, always, last step of anything in it.
10-02-2011, 03:05 PM
#15
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i drain both motors,make sure you have a small wire to poke in the drain hole so you no all the water is out and then tighten the drain plugs,put the muffs on and put antifreeze in a 5 gal bucket and start the motor, when the antifreeze comes out the exhaust im done.
10-02-2011, 04:16 PM
#16
This "pockets of water" thing is a myth if you are in fresh water. Drained blocks never freeze. Blocks that have not been drained or have been refilled with something are the ones that crack up. The more fluid you put in, the more blocks you are going to have to buy.
It is not insurance to do something that increases the chance of cracking your block.
Drain it totally, always, last step of anything in it.
It is not insurance to do something that increases the chance of cracking your block.
Drain it totally, always, last step of anything in it.
You are a braver man than me. I've seen motors that were totally drained and then blown out with air pop all their core plugs over the winter. I know that -100 doesn't ever freeze.
10-02-2011, 06:51 PM
#17
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I do it very similar, but I also drain exhausts, the lower recirculating hose, and main inlet hose that attaches to gimbal.
For everyone else that does not do the 5 gallon bucket attached to the muffs deal, here is one of my write- up's on making this home brew tool.
FYI: it has gotten as cold as -30F here. usually lowest temp of our winter is closer to -10F.
Originally Posted by SB/CFM
It's that time of year, so this is very appropriate and super helpful. I made this a few years ago also, and absolutely love it. Friends borrow it - okay, make me do it - to there boats, it works so well.
Super cheap and ultra effective !
OK. Here's my engine flush tool.
Parts needed:
1) Bucket - one with handle is much easier
2) Garden hose
3) Perko thru hull plastic fitting - 3/4" barbed fitting
4) hose clamp
5) sealant
Drill a 1" hole thru bottom of bucket in flat area. Usually middle has a ridge from manufacturing so don't do it here. Go off to the side where nice and flat.
Slide Perko fitting thru to make sure it will totally slide thru. When okay - remove and apply sealer to bottom edge of the outlet (rounded part) and insert fitting so that the hose fitting section sticks outside the bucket. Install fittings nut tightly and let dry.
Grab 3/4" garden hose and cut off female fitting. This side of the hose will slip over the male barbed section of the Perko fitting outside/bottom of bucket.
Find a place where suitable to hang bucket. You can see where I have it. I can see level while in boat with boat running. Can also fill it from ground so that none will be spilled inside boat. A bocket with hanger makes positioning very handy.
Install male section of hose on Muffs. Cut garden hose to length. Remember not to cut off garden hoses male outlet!
Note: Have bucket higher than the outdrive so that it is gravity fed. This will make sure there are no priming / drawing issues - especially on the weak draw of Alpha pumps. I have it so that it is actually higher than the engines coolant passages so that it will feed to the top of the engine itself, just in case.
Anyway - you get the idea. Take a look at the pic. It's simple, way cheap, and makes it a heck of a lot easier than most other methods.
Super cheap and ultra effective !
OK. Here's my engine flush tool.
Parts needed:
1) Bucket - one with handle is much easier
2) Garden hose
3) Perko thru hull plastic fitting - 3/4" barbed fitting
4) hose clamp
5) sealant
Drill a 1" hole thru bottom of bucket in flat area. Usually middle has a ridge from manufacturing so don't do it here. Go off to the side where nice and flat.
Slide Perko fitting thru to make sure it will totally slide thru. When okay - remove and apply sealer to bottom edge of the outlet (rounded part) and insert fitting so that the hose fitting section sticks outside the bucket. Install fittings nut tightly and let dry.
Grab 3/4" garden hose and cut off female fitting. This side of the hose will slip over the male barbed section of the Perko fitting outside/bottom of bucket.
Find a place where suitable to hang bucket. You can see where I have it. I can see level while in boat with boat running. Can also fill it from ground so that none will be spilled inside boat. A bocket with hanger makes positioning very handy.
Install male section of hose on Muffs. Cut garden hose to length. Remember not to cut off garden hoses male outlet!
Note: Have bucket higher than the outdrive so that it is gravity fed. This will make sure there are no priming / drawing issues - especially on the weak draw of Alpha pumps. I have it so that it is actually higher than the engines coolant passages so that it will feed to the top of the engine itself, just in case.
Anyway - you get the idea. Take a look at the pic. It's simple, way cheap, and makes it a heck of a lot easier than most other methods.
Last edited by SB; 10-02-2011 at 06:58 PM.
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10-31-2011, 02:05 PM
#19
The engine block itself is fine if your antufreeze is where it should be. But as you said, heat exchanger, oil/PS cooler and exhaust need to be done.
10-31-2011, 02:58 PM
#20
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RUn first antifreeze throw engine via drive. After that open main water pipe wich comes down to up to the thermostat hose and drain block.
After block is empty fill it with antifreeze by straining antifreeze
to main pipe so long that antifreeze comes out from thermostat hose.
After that block is full of antifreeze wich also protects against corrosion. Put main pipe back to the thermostat hose.
Done this many boats/inboards many years and our winters are cold!! -30 celsius degree, allways work !!
In chris cat i have run antifreeze and also have two heaters, in engine bay and cabin wich are controlled external thermostat set up to +10 degree whole winter.. Those keep engines/boat dry !!
After block is empty fill it with antifreeze by straining antifreeze
to main pipe so long that antifreeze comes out from thermostat hose.
After that block is full of antifreeze wich also protects against corrosion. Put main pipe back to the thermostat hose.
Done this many boats/inboards many years and our winters are cold!! -30 celsius degree, allways work !!
In chris cat i have run antifreeze and also have two heaters, in engine bay and cabin wich are controlled external thermostat set up to +10 degree whole winter.. Those keep engines/boat dry !!
