arrover

In the past my boat has been kept on a lift through the winter but I sold the lift when I sold my house. I do not own a trailer. My normal winterization for my 496MAG has been: use Merc quick drain air pump. Unscrew 4 blue drain plugs to make sure all water is drained. Pull end caps off of heat exchanger and blow it out.

My boat will have to spend this winter floating in a slip. I hate it but that's just the way it has to be right now. The lake is clear fresh water and gets down to around 50 degrees in the winter so the water doesn't freeze. I tried my normal winterization procedure last weekend but lake water just continues to enter the cooling system when I use the quick drain or unscrew the blue drain plugs. Water even creeps back into the heat exchanger after I blow it out.

What is the best winterization procedure for a 496 powered boat that is floating in the water? It seems that I need to pour anti freeze into the raw water side of the cooling system but where should I pour it in? Thank you guys for your help!

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I believe the only way you could do this would be to put a ball valve between your transom assembly and the sea water pump. This would be the only way to ensure that lake water does re-enter the engine and dilute the antifreeze.

Or buy a purpose built bilge heater, with a backup power supply.

What kind of boat is this?

A.O. Razor

First. See if you can clamp up and disconnect the raw water inlet hose at the raw water pump end. If you can't do this, don't use this method, your boat could sink. Then plug the hose up with a closed fitting and release the hose clamp. Now your inlet hose connected to the drive, should be completely water tight, also if your hose is long enough, tie it up so the end is above sea level. You might get some water into the bilge when removing and installing the closed fitting, but your bilge pump should take care of that. Just work fast and find someone to help you. Install another hose on the pump in the length you need for the next step. First, fill the closed cooling with AF as you normally should, dont leave it dry, there is a corrosion inhibiter in the AF, and a moter and cooling system left dry can and will get rust in them. Next, use the hose you connected to the RWP to run fresh water throug the motor from a hose near the slip. When warmed up, use the hose to run plenty of AF though the motor. When doing these two steps, do the usual other steps with oil and gasoline stabilizer ect. Again I will stess that only do this if you are 100% sure you can remove and plug up the hose comming from the drive.

Another method I've seen used, but not as effective, is simply to put the muffs on the drives while in the water and run fresh water on a hose. Then connect a tube, as large in dia. as possible, with a big funnel in one end and the other end to the muffs. Have one at the ignition and have one or two to help you on the stern end of the boat. Pour AF into the funnel as fast as possible to create a steady flow of AF to the moter. This is also why is important to have someone at the ignition, if you can't get the AF into the funnel fast enough.

I like to use this one. AMSOIL Antifreeze & Coolant

When you got the hose off the RWP, you could do a permanent flushing system with ball valves as Sydwayz suggested. It'll make things super easy and safe in the future. Nice little winter project.

arrover

Thank you guys for the suggestions! I really appreciate it.

The boat is a 2001 Formula 260BR. The dock where I am keeping it now has shore power and I have an onboard charger for my two batteries. The boat also has two large bilge pumps so I feel pretty secure in leaving it in the water. It's close to me so I can check on it often.

I like the idea of blocking the raw water inlet hose. Could you guys explain to me which hose that is? I'm thinking its a 1.5"ish hose near the starter (starboard side of the engine)? Thanks again for the help!

07DominatorSS

Maybe I'm not understanding properly, but why winterize if the water doesn't freeze?

A.O. Razor

I'd suggest you consult your manual, but yes it is at front starboard, low down. I think the hose inner dia. is 1.1/4", check your manual for this or ask a merc shop. The PDF I've posted should give you an idea about where is it is. My 496HO's are the Horizon inboards and I have a flush system I use on land, so it's been a little while since I've checked it closely and all the hoses from water pickup to pump are aftermarket. Regarding clamping the hose. If you can avoid it, do so. The aftermarket hose in my boat are quite flexible, so it was not a problem squeezing it shut for a short moment back then. But if the hose is stiff, it might break if squeezed. Just make sure you have a plug that you can get into the hose and tighten the hose clamp on, water will rush in when you remove the hose from the pump.

No matter what, when you have it off, install a fresh water flushing system. You won't regret it.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

That should be a very simple boat to haul and place on blocks. You can do that with a borrowed trailer and a couple bottle jacks.

tnc110

I bought two ball valves and a T with a garden hose adapter for a similar reason...mine was to flush out saltwater while still in salt water. Also going to hook a 5 gallon bucket with a short hose full of antifreeze prior to putting her up for the year. Only cost a few bucks...I hate muffs.

A.O. Razor

Exactly. I've installed it on the cruiser for the same reason + the fact that I can't use muffs. I chose to go with a setup for the twins that lets me backflush as well. One T in the middle on the inner transom with ball valve in the middle part that connects to a 5 ft. hose, so I got the garden hose connection outside of the boat when flushing and running AF. The left and right fitting goes to another T just behind each motor with a ball valve on each connection, so that I can direct the water as I need. Super easy to do, and life is sooo much better now.

Pismo10

Unhook the raw water heavy walled hose coming up from the drive from the raw water pump and lift the end up well above the water line and plug it. No more water coming in. Winterize as usual.