bck

I'm not sure if you can incorporate it with your fuel injection/ distributor, but just as info the Daytona ignition has an anti stall feature where it automatically bumps timing if engine drops below a preset rpm.

Tibbstoy2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Alex, Rob, Indysupra and Rob for the information!

I have updated my spark (to reflect in gear vs. neutral)... So far I basically blended what Haxby and hadleycat are doing. I also tweaked my fuel table slightly to try to richen slightly to catch the low idle jump to in-gear.

Alex,
1. I'm surprised to hear the IAC should be 10-15%, if you said that on the Holley Forums... they would have banned you, LOL. But as stated before, we're talking about boats, and I understand your reasoning. I assume this will mean the throttle blades at 0% TPS are slightly more closed (allowing the IAC to run more percentage). I will give it a try.

2. Another thing I noticed, both GimmeFuel and Hadleycat were running very similar programs (both from Haxby, makes sense). Most of my settings are very similar. One major difference was cranking fuel. I have tinkered with cranking fuel a fair amount a few years ago, but it takes 4-5 revolutions to start - and when it starts, the engines start pretty strongly hot or cold. I typically have not used the pre-prime because it only helps by 1 revolution. Bottom line, I use 16 lbs of fuel to start the engines and the Haxby configs all seem to want 2x the fuel. When I increased my cranking fuel by 10-20% in the past, it seems to backfire through the intake... Is it possible I need way more fuel and if I increase it to match the other guys, my engine will fire within the first 1-2 revs of the crank? In other words, it backfired because 16lbs was half of what it needed, causing it to not fire until another revolution? Then when I tried adding 10-20%, it backfired due to an "in between" amount? I do have DIS waste fire coils, so it possible it ignited on the off stroke?

-When I introduced the pre-prime, it only likes 100%, 110,120,130% all backfire occasionally.

3. One other question: what is the best way to set up a rev limiter (limp mode) when a sensor goes out of caution/warning - currently a timing cut is the easy limit, but nothing for RPM? I know people have used an custom input/output with rules set up to limit RPM. I also know the boost ICF has additional rev limiter control that removes the need, but since I run an NA motor and a 1 bar MAP sensor, I obviously can't use the boost ICF. If someone that has this figured out can post a few screen shots of the I/O and/or settings used to set this up - I'm sure it would help many people.

Thanks!

Tibbstoy2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the cross reference bck! Yes, the Holley EFI tables absolutely let you pick any timing you want at any rpm and MAP pressure. So the tuneability is limitless. The only trick is figuring out exactly how much timing Daytona adds to catch a stall. Is that programmable (if so we could match it) or is it built in to the box?

bck

I'll have to dig out my instructions for the details. It's a built-in feature you access with a laptop. edit- I looked it up. You can also find it as a download on Daytona Sensors website under FAQ CD1 Marine. It looks like you can manually program the rpm below which the timing will advance and how much you want the timing to advance. It can be deactivated for a set period during startup so it only works works while the engine is idling. I've never used this feature, I just know of its existence.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

With the daytona box, you can enable idle stabilization. You can add up to 20 degrees of advance with it, from your base setting, as long as it doesn't exceed your trigger timing. Example. Say your base timing in nuetral, at idle , is 16 degrees at 900RPM. You can set the idle stabilization, to say, 700RPM engagement, and when you shift into gear under load, the engine will now idle with 36* of timing while in gear (provided your trigger timing is 36 or higher). You can adjust the RPM that it kicks in as well. When data logging, you can clearly see idle stabilization doing its thing.

kvogt

You can activate the boost icf. Then in the safety setup use the switched trigger and select cut ignition. remember this actually act as a rev limiter at around 2500 rpm

Tibbstoy2

iTrader: (1)

I wish I could... Adding boost icf doesnt work on an NA motor because it forces you to use a different Map sensor (unless I'm completely missing something):

I just tried it with the Holley v4 software:

Tibbstoy2

iTrader: (1)

That's a great feature, I'm impressed you can load a map vs. rpm advance chart (just like full on EFI). The Daytona is definitely the way to go if you want CDI and reliable ignition unlike MSD. One big advantage of having coil packs versus a distributor (besides the obvious simplicity/less moving parts) is I don't have to worry about rotor phasing with a crank trigger. Otherwise, I can imagine the spark may not jump well in a 20 plus degree swing.

HaxbySpeed

Select custom 2 bar. In the top row change the far left of the scale to 0 and the far right to 105. Higlight all cells in the row, right click and hit fill row values. Done.
It will give you a couple warnings when you do it, just hit yes or ok or whatever until they clear.

Tibbstoy2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Alex, I will give that a try - pretty easy - sounds like that's common practice too. My plan is to use the Boost Safety setup to cut ignition for low/no oil pressure, low fuel pressure, high duty cycle, high coolant temp, and low voltage. I'll also tie a "warning output" aux wire to the rev limiter #1 input to create a limp mode at 1500 rpm for sensor ranges that are better than the cut ignition, where I'm not going to "hurt" anything, but shouldn't be on plane.

In case it helps anyone else, I Found this link illustrating it pretty well (except they were using 10kPa at 0V... I went with 0kPa since it made more sense and I also have different sensors selected per above...
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...php?p=53530538

Any thoughts on why my cranking fuel is so much lower? Or is 16 lbs/hr cold start normal? As mentioned earlier, other people have sent me files and they typically are 2x more... but just adding 10-20% more fuel and my engine is backfiring through the intake.