oil cooler vs condensation
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oil cooler vs condensation
ok guys want some input see what ya think....put in a 522 with dyno time only, put a brand new 3 x18 oil cooler as well.
boat fires up no problem, mechanic does a visual notices a small leak from one of the fittings (around cooler) and upon closer inspection of fliud ,looks like a milkshake coming out of cooler. assume it must be a faulty cooler or a gasket did not seat properly either intake or head gasket.
order another cooler install but bypass it to see if its still making a milkshake, all seems good so we continue along and remount hoses to new cooler and again all appears ok run it on the ears gets up to 170 so we are off for water test and engine runs mint, oil still looks a little off but continue. get boat home after a couple of hrs sitting look under valve cover and big glob of mayo.......multople oil changes later all seems good , but prob continues throughout summer. i did buy an oil tstat & will install this winter. so i guess my question is can a cooler run so efficently that it will condensate right at cooler even tho engine temp is at 170?
even when boat was winterized the oil in pan seemed ok but when we removed the filter it was a milkshake
and damn sorry for such a long post
boat fires up no problem, mechanic does a visual notices a small leak from one of the fittings (around cooler) and upon closer inspection of fliud ,looks like a milkshake coming out of cooler. assume it must be a faulty cooler or a gasket did not seat properly either intake or head gasket.
order another cooler install but bypass it to see if its still making a milkshake, all seems good so we continue along and remount hoses to new cooler and again all appears ok run it on the ears gets up to 170 so we are off for water test and engine runs mint, oil still looks a little off but continue. get boat home after a couple of hrs sitting look under valve cover and big glob of mayo.......multople oil changes later all seems good , but prob continues throughout summer. i did buy an oil tstat & will install this winter. so i guess my question is can a cooler run so efficently that it will condensate right at cooler even tho engine temp is at 170?
even when boat was winterized the oil in pan seemed ok but when we removed the filter it was a milkshake
and damn sorry for such a long post
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I've dealt with a lot of sunk boats, it can take many oil changes to get all the water out of an engine.
Also, the oil needs to be hot enough to boil off the moisture. Before I put an oil thermostat in the TG, it was a foamy mess under the valve covers.
As for the oil in the pan looking fine but the filter is a milk shake, once the water gets to the paper filter element, they pack up, stop filtering and by-pass the filer/cooler altogether. Unless the filter is continually replaced as you're working on getting out the water, this will happen.
Back in '05, a friend w a 39 525 Cigarette was seeing very high oil temps, the filter was getting contaminated w/water, by passing the filter/cooler. The root cause was the CMI header (forward mount motor) had cracked, letting water in the cyl, making its way to the filter....
Good luck,
Kurt
Also, the oil needs to be hot enough to boil off the moisture. Before I put an oil thermostat in the TG, it was a foamy mess under the valve covers.
As for the oil in the pan looking fine but the filter is a milk shake, once the water gets to the paper filter element, they pack up, stop filtering and by-pass the filer/cooler altogether. Unless the filter is continually replaced as you're working on getting out the water, this will happen.
Back in '05, a friend w a 39 525 Cigarette was seeing very high oil temps, the filter was getting contaminated w/water, by passing the filter/cooler. The root cause was the CMI header (forward mount motor) had cracked, letting water in the cyl, making its way to the filter....
Good luck,
Kurt
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That much water in the oil is not being caused by condensation alone most likely. I would suggest you plug the raw water hose exits at the exhaust and the put a short hose on the large entrance on the thermostat elbow and use a Stant or similar pressure tester and pump up the system to about 15psi and see if the pressure falls off quickly or slowly. If the pressure will not hold then you have a leak between the raw water system and either the crankcase ( head gasket, block,head, etc.) or a leak in the oil cooler. If this pressure test does not show a leak by pressure drop then I would suspect either some form of reversion or a cracked or leaking exhaust system.
Good Luck, hope the fix is simple.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Good Luck, hope the fix is simple.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
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Would there be any signs of water intrusion during dyno?.......I purchased this engine sight unseen etc from a respected oso member and believe him on all aspects of rebuild. Just trying to determine what's going on. Thanks again
Pat
Pat
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I always get a little bit of water during break in runs of new engines that manifests itself as a LIGHT coating mayo under the oil cover and in the breathers.
Ray and the others are giving you good advice.
Uncle Dave
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I use the high perf merc oil filter, not sure of the internals of that specific one though, thanks fellas!
And UD yea I'm pretty sure it was dyno'd with auto headers.
Cheers pat
And UD yea I'm pretty sure it was dyno'd with auto headers.
Cheers pat