oil change question
12-28-2011, 07:32 PM
#21
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All I can say is you guys worry way too much. Its a good thing you don't have 3 boats with 5 engines. Your carbon footprint would look like godzillas. Not to mention I have never seen evidence of these acids or byproducts of combustion ever causing internal damage to any engine.
wives tales
12-28-2011, 07:43 PM
#22
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Right on. The engines in my scarab are supercharged so they get a different schedule then my 350cid crusaders in the carver. In fact more often then not I rebuild them (the scarab) to winterize them. Just reloaded port back in last weekend all refreshed for another year of thrashing. A 496ho is a work horse of known tune which will make the oil stay clean unless like said originally the guy did the 20hrs at wot.
Last edited by blue thunder; 12-28-2011 at 07:46 PM.
12-29-2011, 03:08 AM
#24
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All I can say is you guys worry way too much. Its a good thing you don't have 3 boats with 5 engines. Your carbon footprint would look like godzillas. Not to mention I have never seen evidence of these acids or byproducts of combustion ever causing internal damage to any engine. Now if your oil is shot from over temp or dirty from too many hrs or other failure like fueling, change it. Otherwise you are just enriching those in the crude oil patch.
12-29-2011, 09:30 AM
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12-31-2011, 02:22 PM
#26
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Way too much fuss over all this. If you have a stock, non-juiced engine you can change your oil whenever using $.99 wal mart oil and you will never know the difference.
I used to change oil every year or two in a basic small block chevy engine using the cheapest oil I could find and got 3000 hours out of it. It does not make a big difference.
If you have a hot or super/turboed motor then you should change often and use good oil, otherwise it makes no difference.
As for storage, it will make absolutely no difference when you change the oil. Not the slightest.
I used to change oil every year or two in a basic small block chevy engine using the cheapest oil I could find and got 3000 hours out of it. It does not make a big difference.
If you have a hot or super/turboed motor then you should change often and use good oil, otherwise it makes no difference.
As for storage, it will make absolutely no difference when you change the oil. Not the slightest.
01-10-2012, 09:03 PM
#27
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Always change oil and filter at the end of the season. Use an oil that is recommended for long termed storage such and Mobil-1 20W-50 V-Twin or Mercury Oil and worries of corrosion are negated completely.
Piston rings can take a beating during storage and a potential dry strat the following season. M-1 coats very well and hangs on better than most.
If you want an edge then this is the way to go.
Piston rings can take a beating during storage and a potential dry strat the following season. M-1 coats very well and hangs on better than most.
If you want an edge then this is the way to go.
01-11-2012, 06:21 AM
#28
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If you just change the oil and let it sit in the pan, the only engine componet to see fresh oil is the pan. You basicly did nothing at all to protect the engine parts from seasonal layup issues.
Ken
01-11-2012, 10:41 AM
#30
Charter Member
Only if you re-start the engine and pump the new oil thru out the motor.
If you just change the oil and let it sit in the pan, the only engine componet to see fresh oil is the pan. You basicly did nothing at all to protect the engine parts from seasonal layup issues.
Ken
If you just change the oil and let it sit in the pan, the only engine componet to see fresh oil is the pan. You basicly did nothing at all to protect the engine parts from seasonal layup issues.
Ken
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