kook

Bought one of those portable jump starters. Now I need to come up with some remote battery terminals that are accessible (not under the hatch, 'cause it won't open with a dead battery).

I looked at PepBoys, and found nothing. A crude idea would be to cut the heads off a couple stainless 5/16" bolts, drill 2 holes through the back of the seat (to the storage area underneath the seat), and put nuts on either end, to keep the "terminals" in place. Concerned about shorting-out the terminals, if something metal happened to touch them.

Any better ideas?

thanks,
Mark

Cord

iTrader: (2)

Boat US or West Marine have them.

turbo2256

Kook,

I can open mine with out power not easy and have to prop it up my Seebold wont though

HiPerf2000

iTrader: (2)

My buddy did this after he learned the first time his batteries went dead and he couldn't raise the hatch to get to them.

His back seat had a "divider board" in the middle making it two separate "areas". he ran one post to one side, and the other post to the other side to prevent anything from touching both posts at once. He also found some type of plastic "box" to cover the positive terminal just in case. he secured th box with a couple screws and was done. Not sure if he ever used it, but at least he has some peace of mind.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I used a tupperware container for a plastic cover for the Circuit Breakers in my under seat compartment. I cut a hole in the lid, and screwed that down to the back portion of the seat compartment, and the bowl part of the tupperware just snaps into the cover (securely mouted) and it will take a seriously hard hit from an object to knock it off, but it twists off easily.

Also, I can just lift my engine hatch up. My cylinders have an inner liner sleeve that alow full manual movement when the hydraulics have no power. It came factory from Sonic like this.

Valley Boy

Summit Racing and Jeg's have these terminals. They are sold in set of Red-Positive and Black-Negative with the vinyl colored caps. We used these all the time in Drag Racing applications and they are designed for through panel mounting. I mounted mine just under the rear seat panel on the starboard side. They tuck up under the front edge of the seat and are out of sight until you need them.

hauling ass-a

Foutain boats came with this set up right from the factory you may want to contact them. I bought the same box you probley have, mine came with two chargers, one wall the other is a cig adp. If you have a dead battery, plug one end in the booster box and the other end in your cig lighter and you will be able to open your engine hatch. This way you will not need to do the set up with the terminals! Last year a mechanic left the lights on in my boat and I connected the booster box to the lighter, raised the hatch and then connected the booster box to the battery to start it and it worked fine. HOPE THIS HELPS AND SAVES YOU MONEY

Audiofn

You can get the stuff at boat us. The other alternative that I like is have you ever seen the plugs that tow trucks have on the front of them for jumping cars? They work very well. MAKE SURE YOU FUSE IT. No matter how you do it. If you do short it out that way it will blow the fuse and not damage anything.

Jon

Cord

iTrader: (2)

Actually Audio, because this has the potential to be a high amperage circuit, I'd use a fusable link instead of a fuse.

Audiofn

Cord if you are going to try and start the motor with it you are correct. However you have to take into account the size of the wire you are going to run. I think that most people just want to run say a 10ga or so wire to get the harch open then you can move your jumper to battery. If this is the case the fuse should be fine. They are easier to replace then a fusable link no???

Jon