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Old 01-19-2012, 11:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Raylar
Hey Steve, Love that story of scientific analysis of measuring frog jumping performance! LMFHO!

As with engine performance, there always is an actual reason, no matter how small or big that always answers the question of why did the outputs change. The reality is though sometimes its just not worth the trouble to find it depending on the net benefit.

An interesting fact here about the K&N filters for the Merc 496 which we have tested and saw some reduced power versus the good old stock Merc flame arrestor. The Mercury flame arrestor has a nice internal bell mouth opening into the throat versus the K&N filter that has a sharp edge opening into the throat. Air as most know likes to flow over and into bell mouth openings and at higher air flows this can make a measurable difference. Does the K&N filter filter air better than the wire mesh openings of the stock flame arrestor, YOU BET! Is its extra filtering needed in a boat, I guess that depends on the cleanliness of the boating enviroment you are in. If the extra filtering is not needed then the expense of the aftermarket filter and its resulting power loss make it not such a great buy.

It always kind of amazes me how much money, time and effort performance seeking users will spend trying to practice "Engine Alchemy" with some of the so called "magical" products that are supposed to make serious power and performance increases. If sometimes they would just spend their time and money looking at a lot of things on their boats especially hull straightness and condition, drive efficiencies in X-diemnsions, setbacks and prop setup and selections they would see and benefit from some much nicer performance increases.
I am an engine builder by profession and as such I can really appreciate products and knowledge that can and do create good added power and performance from marine engines.
I have to say though that there are small items like, which good oil I run, which good oil filter is better than another, which ignition coil I am using, what spark plug size wires I am using, and such really won't make enough improvement to be even measureable let alone translate into increases in boat performance on the water!
When a performance boater "GETS THE NEED FOR MORE SPEED!" they should try to spend their time and hard earned money on upgrades and improvements that will really translate into good measurable performance "IN THE BOAT - IN THE WATER!" , everything and everywhere else "DOES NOT MATTER!"

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
This is exactly why i love O.S.O. , outstanding information !! Thank you Ray
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:04 PM
  #32  
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Never really thought they would give or make any horsepower. I tend to use them more because of convenience, cost and appearance. But at the same time I'm not really interested in putting a restrictor plate on the motor either. Looks like some testing this spring is due.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by stevesxm
it was an easy fix. he finally remembered to take it out of the plastic wrap before he installed it.

seriously tho, smitty, why do you think that was ? that implies the thing acted more like a restrictor plate than a filter ... was it just sized way way too small for the demand ?
The k/n 3" x 9" air cleaner or for that matter most automotive filters in this size are just too small for bigger cube, hi revving engines and do NOT flow enough, in back to back test, a dyno"venturi" hat , a K/N 3X 14" dia filter with flow top and a auto parts store 4 x 14 paper filter all made within 1% of each other, no measurable difference. The K/N 3X 14 with a solid lid started to kill 2% or about 8-12 hp/ft lbs of tq. The car the motor is going in is My original looking 1974 Trans Am, I want to retain the factory shaker scoop when I put my motor in, I have no problem mounting it directly to the hood but I don't want to chop up the car. A common thing guys do for these is mount the scoop to the hood and put a k/n 3X9 air cleaner on the carb and it stick into the scoop just barely clearing. I have heard that these things kill hp, not because of the design of the k/n filter media but beacuse of the overall size/square inches/effective filter area of the air cleaner itself. I wanted to see this for myself, at the time we tried it we were making 565- 568 hp pulls and tuning the efi program/working bugs out. When we bolted the K/N 3x9 (which by the way I used to run on a 455 cu inch boat motor) the hp just died, back to back pulls showed hp in the 520's . The map went from 99kpa or so at 100% throttle to about 85, the air cleaner also sucked in and afr's went pig rich. Switched back to what we had been running and hp came right back. I found some tech that claimed a K/N filter will flow about 6-7 cfm per sq inch of effective area, at 3 x9x 3.14 there is 84.78 sq inches of media, 84.78 x 7= 593cfm hence the restriction. Now, its possible that there is more effective area once you account for the pleats in the design but still the same if you have a high flowing intake sytem something this small will choke it off, Smitty

Last edited by articfriends; 01-20-2012 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 01-19-2012, 11:05 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Raylar
It always kind of amazes me how much money, time and effort performance seeking users will spend trying to practice "Engine Alchemy" with some of the so called "magical" products that are supposed to make serious power and performance increases. If sometimes they would just spend their time and money looking at a lot of things on their boats especially hull straightness and condition, drive efficiencies in X-diemnsions, setbacks and prop setup and selections they would see and benefit from some much nicer performance increases.
I am an engine builder by profession and as such I can really appreciate products and knowledge that can and do create good added power and performance from marine engines.
I have to say though that there are small items like, which good oil I run, which good oil filter is better than another, which ignition coil I am using, what spark plug size wires I am using, and such really won't make enough improvement to be even measureable let alone translate into increases in boat performance on the water!
When a performance boater "GETS THE NEED FOR MORE SPEED!" they should try to spend their time and hard earned money on upgrades and improvements that will really translate into good measurable performance "IN THE BOAT - IN THE WATER!" , everything and everywhere else "DOES NOT MATTER!"

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Everyone has a learning curve Ray.

I am an exterminator and I suppose I could be just as "amazed" at what you or someone else doesn't know about bugs and how to eradicate them----I could make somebody look real stupid! No matter what a person's profession....a plumber, or an electrician, or a carpenter or a computer programmer or...

It seems that what we may have learned 20, 10, 5 or even 2 years ago or less suddenly becomes kind of redundant to us because now we already know it and somehow it now "amazes" us that someone else doesn't know what we already know.

Funny thing about my own profession as a bug killer after all these years---I am still a student,---but hey, don't tell anyone!
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:11 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by articfriends
The k/n 3" x 9" air cleaner or for that matter most automotive filters in this size are just too small for bigger cube, hi revving engines and do NOT flow enough, in back to back test, a dyno"venturi" hat , a K/N 3X 14" dia filter with flow top and a auto parts store 4 x 14 paper filter all made within 1% of each other, no measurable difference. The K/N 3X 14 with a solid lid started to kill 2% or about 8-12 hp/ft lbs of tq. The car the motor is going in is My original looking 1974 Trans Am, I want to retain the factory shaker scoop when I put my motor in, I have no problem mounting it directly to the hood but I don't want to chop up the car. A common thing guys do for these is mount the scoop to the hood and put a k/n 3X9 air cleaner on the carb and it stick into the scoop just barely clearing. I have heard that these things kill hp, not because of the design of the k/n filter media but beacuse of the overall size/square inches/effective filter area of the air cleaner itself. I wanted to see this for myself, at the time we tried it we were making 565- 568 hp pulls and tuning the efi program/working bugs out. When we bolted the K/N 3x9 (which by the way I used to run on a 455 cu inch boat motor) the hp just died, back to back pulls showed hp in the 520's . The map went from 99kpa or so at 100% throttle to about 85, the air cleaner also sucked in and afr's went pig rich. Switched back to what we had been running and hp came right back. I found some tech that claimed a K/N filter will flow about 6-7 cfm per sq inch of effective area, at 3 x9x 3.14 there is 84.78 sq inches of media, 84.78 x 7= 593cfm hence the restriction. Now, its possible that there is more effective area once you account for the pleats in the design but still the same if you have a high flowing intake sytem something this small will choke it off, Smitty
wow. on the gtp and gtp lights cars those motors were everything under the sun but they all made between 400 and 600 hp depending on the configuration. on the cars that i had control of, i made a large carbon airbox roughly 24 x 16 that sat over but not on the velocity stacks and used what k+n called an " air conditioner element which ws just a big rectangular deal. that was fed from a scoop over the cockpit and that seemed to work ok. when i rand the airbox on the dyno there was no dif w or w/out the filter but what i as thinking at the time was that over a 24 hr race, the filter would get dirty to some degree and i wanted extra capacity. your data is great. well done on that.
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by KAAMA
Everyone has a learning curve Ray.

I am an exterminator and I suppose I could be just as "amazed" at what you or someone else doesn't know about bugs and how to eradicate them----I could make somebody look real stupid! No matter what a person's profession....a plumber, or an electrician, or a carpenter or a computer programmer or...

It seems that what we may have learned 20, 10, 5 or even 2 years ago or less suddenly becomes kind of redundant to us because now we already know it and somehow it now "amazes" us that someone else doesn't know what we already know.

Funny thing about my own profession as a bug killer after all these years---I am still a student,---but hey, don't tell anyone!

i don't think thats fair or representative of what he was saying in any way. in your business i don't figure that you have much argument with the guy that goes to ACE and gets a can of ant killer to murder a a few that are bothering him on on is front porch but you might shake your head at the guy who just had a section of his roof fall in from getting termite eaten and then posts on a forum " gee my house is getting eaten by termites. i sprayed them with RAID but they didn't die. can someone please tell me how to kill them ? "

what would your answer have been ?
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ThisIsLivin
I have to admit I was skeptical of the claims, but I've known my engine builder for almost 20 years and he has never been one to exaggerate anything. It is entirely possible that this guy had a problem that the hotter spark masked. As far as the bridge goes, I'm from Michigan and the state doesn't like privately owned bridges. As to stupid, voodoo or folklore, it is possible that increasing the voltage, current and burn time of the spark generates more heat and that would impact the flame front. Remember, in the words of Smokey Yunich, "It is easier to find 100 ways to make 1 horsepower than 1 way to make 100."

That's actually not true. The Ambassador bridge is privately owned... If you want to get into the bridge owning business... Just sayin'...



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Old 01-20-2012, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by stevesxm
wow. on the gtp and gtp lights cars those motors were everything under the sun but they all made between 400 and 600 hp depending on the configuration. on the cars that i had control of, i made a large carbon airbox roughly 24 x 16 that sat over but not on the velocity stacks and used what k+n called an " air conditioner element which ws just a big rectangular deal. that was fed from a scoop over the cockpit and that seemed to work ok. when i rand the airbox on the dyno there was no dif w or w/out the filter but what i as thinking at the time was that over a 24 hr race, the filter would get dirty to some degree and i wanted extra capacity. your data is great. well done on that.
I'm not sure at what point air a cleaner sized like the one I saw the hp drop with starts becoming a restriction, this particular motor is 467 cu inches, has cnc'd aluminum heads that flowed 320+ cfm at .600 lift, Super victor intake thats cnc'd, Scorpion billet throttle body that is rated to flow 2000 cfm. This particular air cleaner I have owned forever, at one point I had a 455 Pontiac in a jet boat that turned 5000 rpm's with it on top that seemed to run just fine (I'm sure it made about 200 hp less than what I made with this build) and heres the best part, I raced a 69 gto that a friend owned a few times a year for about five years and we had stuck that same element on along with the velocity stack base (that I bought it with back in 1988) as the car had no hood because the intake/carb was too tall to fit under it. This car ran a best of 11.67 with the damn thing on it, we worked our way to that et from 12.20's BUT we NEVER tried a different air cleaner because it had worked on my old boat. We used to have to straighten the damn thing out bewteen passes because it would be all scrunched in. When I called my friend up from the dyno and told him about the hp drop I saw he was beside himself, coulda probably got into the 11.50's with the GTO if we would have tried something different.
This air cleaner has USCG approved stamped on the lid too, I have seen them on several boats thru the years. They also sell a 5" tall version that I have seen on quite a few race boats. The impression I get is the taller one will work with most of what we would ever run. I know this isn't a car forum and I got off track here, figured some of you would find it interesting though, Smitty
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Old 01-20-2012, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stevesxm
i don't think thats fair or representative of what he was saying in any way.
No worries Steve, I really meant no offense to Ray, you or anyone. It was late at night and I couldn't sleep---probably had too much sugar in my blood and too much time on my hands---so don't get too bent at me. I think I have been known a time or two for not always being articulate or tactful with my words.

Ray has been a great contributor on the board---I was just making light of something.

I think it's a very fair to say everyone has a learning curve, but if we can help a person get passed the "curve" with some short cuts, then that's great. I believe that is what Ray does!...and I am sure even Ray had to learn it for the first time himself back whenever he learned it.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:54 PM
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KAAMA: definitly no offense taken by myself with your comments. I respect everyones opinion as best I can and I definitly think we never stop learning. No one knows it all and no one ever will !
What I was trying to make a point of is that generally when boaters here on OSO post a thread with a question for the more knowledgable contributors here on OSO they do so with the hopeful idea that someone else's experience and knowledge will help them learn more and learn more quickly so that they do not always have to become the so called "guinea pig" or test bed for the part or system trials.

Let's face it its really to expensive for most in todays boating world to be guessing and learning about potential changes or additions that in many cases will be un-productive.

What I hope I can do to contribute here on OSO is help users sort thru some of the menusha and help them make good decisions about things I have good knowledge of and expierence with when they are about to spend good money and time investing in a new boat engine upgrades or builds.

You don't see me making a lot of comments here on OSO about boat hulls, drives, props, controls, etc. , beacuse I don't even consider myself to have enough expertise in thse areas to be making a lot of comments or recommendations. I try to comment and help with what I do know and what I feel may help performance boaters.

There is a underlying problem on forums and the internet and that is that generally there are a lot of "mostly intended to be helpful" replies and comments that are many times either off base or based on misinformation to begin with.

Lets hope the questions and asked for recommendations here on OSO receive the most accurate,knowledgeable and useful replies from those who can lend a hand!

Let us all post our threads and replies to show NOT SHOW HOW MUCH WE KNOW, but to help those who need the help with what we have direct knowledge of and can share with them.

This will make this forum a better place to receive and disemminate information.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Last edited by Raylar; 01-20-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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