Rage

See answers above in red

Rage

Well even though the oil into the engine is 190F, as the crank case temperature goes up the oil pressure readings I record go down so the oil at the bearings is not staying at 190F as the crankcase temp goes up but is getting hotter and hotter as the crankcase oil temp reading increases. The other problem with that opinion is that as the oil is heated beyond its tolerance it becomes irreversibly degraded so next time the engine is run the 20W50 oil is now 10W30 or 5W20 or 0w10 or whatever and black burned/oxidized depending on how hot it got. Race engines get the oil changed after every race. Not looking forward to that requirement.

KWright

I understand what your saying my point is if your cooler is cooling it to 190 deg cooling it more before the cooler will only close the oil cooler thermostat
. right so its reaching those hot temps before the pan so the damage is already done.

Rage

Yes now, if I would continue at WOT. Knowing that I currently shut down before those temps are reached but I want to be able to run at WOT as long as I want w/o this problem so that is why I am looking for a fix.... interim now....permanent at the next refresh.

KWright

The fix is what you don't want to hear your motor is making the heat before the pan so you will have to go to the source there is no quick fix.

blue thunder

I wonder if you may not be asking for too much out of a closed cooling system hp engine? Mine with cc will start to climb if I run more than a minute or 2 at WOT. I ususally won't spend that much time at wot without settling back a bit to cool things down. How much coninutous wot time are you wanting to see with this setup?

dereknkathy

it doesn't matter if you run the oil line through an ice chest after the cooler, and it goes into the engine at 40 degrees. the engine heats it up where you need it cool the most. if it is 270 in the sump, it is hotter than that as it is trying to keep your crank away from your rods. that is why we are all trying to come up with possible causes.

SDFever

Post some good pics of your entire oil system. Can't take that long.

The default path of oil on that engine is:

Out of the remote oil filter adapter plate to the filter.

From the filter to cooler

From cooler back to block into the half-inch npt fitting on bottom of block.

Ideally, you want the stat plumbed in right at block exit.

I'd need to see it. What about the block by-pass valve? Is it being used (mostly) which would cause excessive temps at about any rpm respectively?

This isn't rocket science. Take the engineer hat off or get a buddy to look at it and see if you can find an error.

Trying to measure the inside crank case temp is just plain crazy even if you find a way to do it. What does it prove or matter? You got something wrong somewhere man.

Also, the answer to your prior question was "yes".

Post some pics of the port side of the engine(s). And some up close and some a foot or more away.

SDFever

Not to get off topic here but it's important to remember the fact that the knock sensors on that engine do NOT work for the most part.

The knock system on a 496 will let you lean it and burn down all day long. I don't care what the manual, Mercury or any diag tool tells you.

The sensors are there to keep the pcm happy but overall the system DOES NOT WORK like most others. NEVER trust it. You gotta go by what you know and not always what is "supposed to be".

friendly FYI -

vette131

I would try to add some fuel at wot to see if it has any effect. maybe raise your fuel pressure for a pass.
After all the testing that you've done I would have put a bigger cooler on it by now.