10 year old merc 575sci engines with zero run time, concerns?
#11
Registered
Just my opinion, but any performance marine engines that have been sitting pretty much unused and unserviced for possibly ten years could have some real issues after being put back in service. Sometimes marine engines unused and sitting can be a bigger problem than the same engines with lots of use and hours.
A good compression test coupled with a MUST leakdown test may show cylinder bore rust and ring degradation and valve and seat issues and if so that's going to require refreshing the engines. Valve springs should be changed as a MUST and the valve seals at that time as both can be done on the engine without head removal. There could also be some rust and deterioration on the head gaskets that were being used back then that were not stailess so head removal may be required. As for roller rockers, if the engine was cranked only (not running) to prime the oil system and get some oil onto the rockers they might be ok, but removing valve covers and checking and readjusting valve train is easy and should be done anyway. The other issues that may show up will be gasket and seal issues from drying and cracking and only some use will show that issue.
In all, obviously the boat should have been bought "RIGHT" and there should be money in your budget for eventualities!
Be careful to realize that if your boating season is short and you have issues early in the season you will probably loose your season waiting for repair or replacement.
Hopefully you will expierence limited problems but use the old addage "Plan for the Worst and Hope for the Best!"
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
A good compression test coupled with a MUST leakdown test may show cylinder bore rust and ring degradation and valve and seat issues and if so that's going to require refreshing the engines. Valve springs should be changed as a MUST and the valve seals at that time as both can be done on the engine without head removal. There could also be some rust and deterioration on the head gaskets that were being used back then that were not stailess so head removal may be required. As for roller rockers, if the engine was cranked only (not running) to prime the oil system and get some oil onto the rockers they might be ok, but removing valve covers and checking and readjusting valve train is easy and should be done anyway. The other issues that may show up will be gasket and seal issues from drying and cracking and only some use will show that issue.
In all, obviously the boat should have been bought "RIGHT" and there should be money in your budget for eventualities!
Be careful to realize that if your boating season is short and you have issues early in the season you will probably loose your season waiting for repair or replacement.
Hopefully you will expierence limited problems but use the old addage "Plan for the Worst and Hope for the Best!"
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
I bought a boat that was 10 years old with 50 hours on it, paid a boat mechanic to do a compression check on it before I bought it. He didn't and lied that he did, after the end of the first season I did a leakdown, two cylinders were so rusted I had to bore it out.
#12
Well for one, the achilles heel of these motors is the head gasket. I know, mine went at 200 hours! With the blower and EFI, they go without little fore warning. It ran like a demon until went. I had lost about 100-150 RPM before it happened then died. I was going to replace the gasket at 250 hours at the end of the season, but didn't make it. If yours are later motors (2003 I think) they will have a Cometic gasket which is what you want. The stock GM piece of crap I had on it cost me the motor. Burned one of the heads and block across THREE cylinders.
Also, the blower is known to loose screws and you know where they go...through the motor. Take the time to check everyone of them is tightened. It is a great motor when running, I loved the easy starting, idling and throttle response. But if not carefully watched ( I do mean compression tested weekly which is what I should have done) a problem can hit quickly. Incidently, I know where there are 575 SCi parts locally if you need them:^P
Also, the blower is known to loose screws and you know where they go...through the motor. Take the time to check everyone of them is tightened. It is a great motor when running, I loved the easy starting, idling and throttle response. But if not carefully watched ( I do mean compression tested weekly which is what I should have done) a problem can hit quickly. Incidently, I know where there are 575 SCi parts locally if you need them:^P
Have not heard anything about the screws, heard about bearing problems on the later blowers. What screws that can fall in are you referring to?
#13
OSO Moderator
Charter Member
Well for one, the achilles heel of these motors is the head gasket. I know, mine went at 200 hours! With the blower and EFI, they go without little fore warning. It ran like a demon until went. I had lost about 100-150 RPM before it happened then died. I was going to replace the gasket at 250 hours at the end of the season, but didn't make it. If yours are later motors (2003 I think) they will have a Cometic gasket which is what you want. The stock GM piece of crap I had on it cost me the motor. Burned one of the heads and block across THREE cylinders.
Also, the blower is known to loose screws and you know where they go...through the motor. Take the time to check everyone of them is tightened. It is a great motor when running, I loved the easy starting, idling and throttle response. But if not carefully watched ( I do mean compression tested weekly which is what I should have done) a problem can hit quickly. Incidently, I know where there are 575 SCi parts locally if you need them:^P
Also, the blower is known to loose screws and you know where they go...through the motor. Take the time to check everyone of them is tightened. It is a great motor when running, I loved the easy starting, idling and throttle response. But if not carefully watched ( I do mean compression tested weekly which is what I should have done) a problem can hit quickly. Incidently, I know where there are 575 SCi parts locally if you need them:^P
The better 575SCi blowers were the Weiand (sp?) ones. The had a "W" on front of blower. Holley made the later ones, and they had defects straight from MFG.
__________________
BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
'02 Cigarette Top Gun TS
'02 PQ 340
'00 PQ 280
'98 Scarab 22
'97 Baja Outlaw 20
'72 Checkmate
'65 Glastron
BillR
'00 Scarab Sport 302 CC
'02 Cigarette Top Gun TS
'02 PQ 340
'00 PQ 280
'98 Scarab 22
'97 Baja Outlaw 20
'72 Checkmate
'65 Glastron
#14
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Compression test every week on a twin engine boat? I would need to helicoil the spark plug threads by the end of the year lol. I see you are local, want to stop by once a week and perform the test?
Have not heard anything about the screws, heard about bearing problems on the later blowers. What screws that can fall in are you referring to?
Have not heard anything about the screws, heard about bearing problems on the later blowers. What screws that can fall in are you referring to?
If you really want to upgrade you could go full whipple 3300s and innercoolers. No worries about the hatch then and the FI system would be a big upgrade over the throttle bodies.
As mentioned earlier the cams are not over-achievers and the headgaskets are terrible. I would not run the headgaskets over a 200 hrs under stock boost. At 235hrs mine were just starting to leak between the cylinders.
#15
The screws come from the throttle bodies as the blower does not have any. Not sure how deep you want to get into this, but you might want to consider selling the blower packages (wieand/B&M) as they are worth quite a bit of money...and then replacing them with the Blowershop 250s. You might be close to even on the whole package. The Wieand 250/256 is not a very stout blower. You can even upgrade the packages to 671 or 871 with very little trouble and maybe at a cost less than a BS 250. Keep in mind the 671/871 height increase of a couple inches. If you keep boost near stock levels ecm calibration is not necessary.
If you really want to upgrade you could go full whipple 3300s and innercoolers. No worries about the hatch then and the FI system would be a big upgrade over the throttle bodies.
As mentioned earlier the cams are not over-achievers and the headgaskets are terrible. I would not run the headgaskets over a 200 hrs under stock boost. At 235hrs mine were just starting to leak between the cylinders.
If you really want to upgrade you could go full whipple 3300s and innercoolers. No worries about the hatch then and the FI system would be a big upgrade over the throttle bodies.
As mentioned earlier the cams are not over-achievers and the headgaskets are terrible. I would not run the headgaskets over a 200 hrs under stock boost. At 235hrs mine were just starting to leak between the cylinders.
That's some great info Rider
I have tons of hatch clearance, nice to know the options I have. For the short term I want to just run what I have, I am most concerned about the HG at this point, no hours but they have been sitting and may have possibly been degrading over time.
I will blue loctite the screws, thanks for the tip!
#16
Registered
Platinum Member
Pull the motors and do a teardown Bus.
Good time of the year to inspect all internal parts and install new gaskets, seals, bearings and drive train.
If the budget allows and it does as mentioned, why gamble with the short boating season we have.
Pay now or pay later I say.
This is cheaper than breaking something later......
Good time of the year to inspect all internal parts and install new gaskets, seals, bearings and drive train.
If the budget allows and it does as mentioned, why gamble with the short boating season we have.
Pay now or pay later I say.
This is cheaper than breaking something later......
#17
Pull the motors and do a teardown Bus.
Good time of the year to inspect all internal parts and install new gaskets, seals, bearings and drive train.
If the budget allows and it does as mentioned, why gamble with the short boating season we have.
Pay now or pay later I say.
This is cheaper than breaking something later......
Good time of the year to inspect all internal parts and install new gaskets, seals, bearings and drive train.
If the budget allows and it does as mentioned, why gamble with the short boating season we have.
Pay now or pay later I say.
This is cheaper than breaking something later......
I get what you are saying verb, but then there is the whole making problems because I am fixing something that aint broke. It will be a judgement call, if I see anything at all that I do not like I will pull them.
BTW I have a retired engine guy that just waits for us, he can usually flip engines in a week....we have taken out and sunday and dropped them back in on friday nights before. I won't be losing a season.
#18
Registered
Platinum Member
I would, but then I would have to send the engines all the way to polesmoker in TX because he is the only engine builder you can trust! hahah .
I get what you are saying verb, but then there is the whole making problems because I am fixing something that aint broke. It will be a judgement call, if I see anything at all that I do not like I will pull them.
BTW I have a retired engine guy that just waits for us, he can usually flip engines in a week....we have taken out and sunday and dropped them back in on friday nights before. I won't be losing a season.
I get what you are saying verb, but then there is the whole making problems because I am fixing something that aint broke. It will be a judgement call, if I see anything at all that I do not like I will pull them.
BTW I have a retired engine guy that just waits for us, he can usually flip engines in a week....we have taken out and sunday and dropped them back in on friday nights before. I won't be losing a season.
#19
Registered
iTrader: (1)
FWIW, my worry would be the cams going flat in short time, sending metal through your new motors, making a huge mess. -Given that they have spent so much time in the same position, flat tappet lifter/cam contact, over time the lube has squeezed out. The ramdom cranking with out firing is no good either as this area is lubricated by splash.
I was always instructed to minimize cranking on new flat tappet stuff and take steps so it fires instantly to avoid wiping out a cam lobe. Also todays oils are not very flat tappet friendly.
The 575's really like the 525EFI cam (or similar, see Bob Mardara) if it's in the cards, pull the top ends, swap out the head gaskets to Cometics and change out the cams to full roller.
I was always instructed to minimize cranking on new flat tappet stuff and take steps so it fires instantly to avoid wiping out a cam lobe. Also todays oils are not very flat tappet friendly.
The 575's really like the 525EFI cam (or similar, see Bob Mardara) if it's in the cards, pull the top ends, swap out the head gaskets to Cometics and change out the cams to full roller.
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: San Diego, California
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Wish I always had his lucky touch!
4Bus: You obviously have the lucky charm talent and if it's that good I would get yourself to a good gambling establishment and put some good money down on some bets you're bound to win with that lucky charm. Then you will have the big money for the parts and machine work, etc. you will need if one of those engines scatters and spits all that metal debris up into those (cheap to buy and rebuild superchargers) and the other expenses involved. Wish I had your luck, I'd prbably spend more time gambling versus building and repairing engines. Alas, I only know engines.
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar