496 Water Pressure fault? Or??? HELP!
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496 Water Pressure fault? Or??? HELP!
Just started up the Velocity today for the first time with the Smartcraft hooked up. I immediately got an engine alarm on the display. (It is a System monitor). The only thing I could see that may be wrong is the water pump pressure. It is around 2.2 - 2.5 at idle. Is the error code coming from my computer or could it be stroed on the System Monitor from the last boat it was on (use Monitor). The gauges and rest of the Smartcraft display look goo. 160 degrees, 40 psi for oil, perfect idle at 640. I am NOT getting a Low Water Pressure alarm though...... Any ideas on where to start?
What is the acceptable ranges for raw water psi for the computer? Anything else I can check? Any way I can clear all codes with just the System Monitor?
What is the acceptable ranges for raw water psi for the computer? Anything else I can check? Any way I can clear all codes with just the System Monitor?
Last edited by Redhook98; 03-31-2012 at 12:38 PM.
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You cann't clear codes with system monitor need to hook engine to scan tool and check it out,water psi at 2-2.D5 at idle seems low alot of times the psi sender gets clogged the 496 will also go into guardian with low water alarm will start beeping and engine will be limited to around 4000,if you cannot find anyone in your area i am not too far from you and can scan the ecm for you and get you going Dave 443-223-6876 MDG Performance Marine
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JUst clear the fault code and see what comes back on restart. 2.0 to 2.5 psi at idle is just slightly low for a strong raw water pump but sometimes the error factor in the sensor and slightly low water pressure at idle are not an issue especially if it comes up quickly at higher rpms.
Depending on when the last time you serviced the impellor and how grooved the end plates on the raw water pump are you can loose pressure pretty easily. You can depending on access sometimes just remove the rear cover only from the pump and give the impellor a look see. If the impellor is old and needs replacing anyway them if the end plates are not badly grooved or such just pop in a new one and recheck the pressure. If the end plates are grooved, then just buy the new stainless replacement pump kit from CP Performance and don't invest or use the Mercury overpriced weak pump anyway.
Remember, If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
Depending on when the last time you serviced the impellor and how grooved the end plates on the raw water pump are you can loose pressure pretty easily. You can depending on access sometimes just remove the rear cover only from the pump and give the impellor a look see. If the impellor is old and needs replacing anyway them if the end plates are not badly grooved or such just pop in a new one and recheck the pressure. If the end plates are grooved, then just buy the new stainless replacement pump kit from CP Performance and don't invest or use the Mercury overpriced weak pump anyway.
Remember, If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar
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Thanks for the inputs guys. I am having it scanned next week by a local group. If it is a water pump issue, I am not even going to try changing the impeller. Just going to go with the stainless unit.
Hooked up the alarm behind the dash and it goes off as soon as power is applied to the system. I think I have a sensor stuck closed perhaps. Where and which sensors are monitored by the audible alarm? If I remember correctly, it is water temp, oil pressure and outdrive fluid level....
Hooked up the alarm behind the dash and it goes off as soon as power is applied to the system. I think I have a sensor stuck closed perhaps. Where and which sensors are monitored by the audible alarm? If I remember correctly, it is water temp, oil pressure and outdrive fluid level....
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Had the scanner hooked up yesterday. It was the Mercrusier laptop setup from a local Mercruiser certified marina (I do not believe it was Diacom, but very similar). It would not connect. The flashing light on the interface box kept blinking and it never saw the connection. He was not able to connect to my wireless system at home to re-verify his identity either... Hmmmmm.....
I broke the wiring schematics out on the diagnostic plug. I noted that the outside two wires were the +/- 12 volts, and the center two were data line. I had 14 volts on the outside wires, and saw appx 5 volts on the inside data lines. My PCM555 is putting something out.... Why wouldn't it connect? He said it was working before he got there that same day, and just inoformed me it was working back at the shop today..... Hmmmmmm....
If you can't re-verify your ID on the Mercruiser SW, will it kill the connection? If I had a wiring issue, I would imagine I would not be getting either voltage or data on the diagnostic plug, but I seem to be...... I know the computer is not bad. Starts and runs fine, and gives good indications on the Smartcraft monitor (except the fault indications that is).
Anyone know where to go from here?
Thanks!
I broke the wiring schematics out on the diagnostic plug. I noted that the outside two wires were the +/- 12 volts, and the center two were data line. I had 14 volts on the outside wires, and saw appx 5 volts on the inside data lines. My PCM555 is putting something out.... Why wouldn't it connect? He said it was working before he got there that same day, and just inoformed me it was working back at the shop today..... Hmmmmmm....
If you can't re-verify your ID on the Mercruiser SW, will it kill the connection? If I had a wiring issue, I would imagine I would not be getting either voltage or data on the diagnostic plug, but I seem to be...... I know the computer is not bad. Starts and runs fine, and gives good indications on the Smartcraft monitor (except the fault indications that is).
Anyone know where to go from here?
Thanks!
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He finally was able to connect. No alarms were present except the fuel levels, pitot, steering and trim alarms. The only issues in the freeze frame were a crank sensor and a TPS issue (from when I unplugged it yesterday). Otherwise it was very clean. Crank issue was at 159 hours and apparently repaired. That was the only "Guardian Mode" incident and took place at appx 20% power and coolant temp of 193..
Here are the run times. I think these are pretty decent for a 9-10 year old motor (271 hours)
0-750 RPM 60 hours
750-1500 81.6 hours
1500-3000 53.2 hours
3000-3500 45.7 hours
3500-4000 22.6 hours
4000-5000 6.7 hours
>5000 .3 hours (18 minutes)
No hits on the knock sensor in the history. No other faults or codes.....
So why do I still have faults on the Smartcraft System Monitor?
Here are the run times. I think these are pretty decent for a 9-10 year old motor (271 hours)
0-750 RPM 60 hours
750-1500 81.6 hours
1500-3000 53.2 hours
3000-3500 45.7 hours
3500-4000 22.6 hours
4000-5000 6.7 hours
>5000 .3 hours (18 minutes)
No hits on the knock sensor in the history. No other faults or codes.....
So why do I still have faults on the Smartcraft System Monitor?
Last edited by Redhook98; 04-03-2012 at 01:35 PM. Reason: Bad speller......
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