HiMark Racing

The Saga continues..OK, one point for MIKE!! It does not look like the intake..got it all back together and I sealed it well and it leaked just like it did before..So I yanked it all off and guess what I found??? A few head studs are just hand tight and the sealant used looks to have deteriorated. Some of the studs go right into the water jacket, and some are blind. I am yanking all the studs and putting "The right stuff" on them". Any problem using this..It seamed to work well on the intake. Just questioning if this is the problem or should I send the heads in and have them surfaced and pressure tested..Only 15 days till Havasu.

Raylar

My suggestion is that the next time you have it all together, use a Stant type radiator pressure testing pump and pump up the water side of the system by blocking the outlet side and pump into the water intake on the circulating engine water pump or the crossover if thats what your engine has. You can put some radiator leak indicator in the engine before pumping it up and it will show up at the leaks if any on a re-teardown. Pump it up to about 14-15 psi and see if the gauge holds pressure and does not drop. If the pressure drops you may be able to see and hear where the leaks are.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I had same problem with my blower intake, water in oil in a matter of minutes.
As mentioned earlier, I also had to keep going around the intake torqueing the bolts until the 1st bolt was still tight once I got to the last one. With just 3 rounds, the 1st bolt tightened could be unscrewed by hand. I think at times it took 8-10 of going around the intake till the intake was pulled down tight. I checked it for flatness and fit, pressure tested block, had heads resurfaced chasing down this water in oil problem. Once I stumbled across this loose intake condition by accident and did the more than 3X around, all was good and never another problem. My stock Merc intake was never a problem, just the B&M blower intake

HiMark Racing

That is pretty much what I have done..I put a schrader valve on one side and a gauge on the other..I can't hear anything and it drops all in about 10 minutes. My next trick will be filling the motor with Hot Water and Dye and pressurize it again if this fix does not work.

HiMark Racing

I did exactly that this last time..probably went around 15 times over three days before I pressure checked it. There is no way it's the intake..

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

i use a product called leaklock on the studs that protrude into the water jacket,really seals good,put it on a small screwdriver and spread it on the threads in the block ,and torque the heads within 30 minutes.i think you just found the leak.

HiMark Racing

The head studs have got to be it..a few were like finger tight and the one's that go into the water jackets that go thru the dowel..looked like coffee residue all over them..I was thinking of having the heads pressure tested and surfaced..but the shop thinks I would be wasting money..and that money is my booze money for Havasu. (Big Booze Budget, Ha!!). There telling me my heads and block are pretty much bullet proof and should be the last thing to look at.
So, I just finished pulling ALL the studs, sealed them and tightened the studs into the block..Gonna let it sit over night and put the heads back on in the morning..need some ARP lube.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

DO NOT torque the studs into the head. Finger tight is good.

HiMark Racing

I hope you are right..gonna assemble tomorrow.

HiMark Racing

Uhhhh, I torque them into the block..20 lbs..not good..Why??