mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

2 things i question,maybe 3 things,why 10w30 for 10 hrs,an engine like that should have been set up with bearing clearances of .0025 to.0032 and should use 20w50 oil,next,what reasoning behind useing a high volume pump with a low pressure spring,im not going to ask the third question because i think you know what i am thinking,i again agree with mild thunder,dont run it anymore,at this point,you may get by with minimal cost to repair,if you keep running it,more damage will happen,i guarentee it.pull the motor and have a good engine guy take a look at it.you still have time before boating season is in full swing.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

There is absolutley no good reason a engine should have normal oil pressure, then at 30 hours have 5psi at idle, and 20 psi running. I've seen engines with 1000+ hours on them still have 50-60psi while running, and 20-30psi hot at idle. Im not gonna get into the volume debates, bottom line, his oil psi numbers are unacceptable.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

From a older post about this engine

"No compression on cyl 4 and 6, pulled head, blown head gasket, and head is etched about 1/4 in down between both cyl. My engine builder is blaming the intake not being seated properly on the heads (of course he picks the part that I installed after he rebuilt the engine) and it sucked in extra air, leaning out the mixture and causing the gasket to blow...I am not convinced, as I diligently followed the proper torque sequence. When I stopped by the shop today, the guy who built motor was not there, but his other tech was showing me marks on the intake gasket, trying to prove to me the intake was either warped or not installed right. What raised red flag was he was showing me the odd # cyl banks, whereas it was cyl 4 and 6 were the ones that got hot and blew the gasket. If it was sucking that much air to cause a bad enough lean condition to blow a gasket, wouldn't I have heard and air sucking sound/backfires/etc??? The intake was an old 454 mag sq intake, former salt water boat, so I acknowledge its not perfect, but 2 hrs of runtime (nostly idling in the slip trying to figure out what was wrong) to blow a head gasket between 4 and 6 and then etch a hole in head???
I noticed the tech was re doing the studs in the head today when reinstalling the repaired/resurfaced head...Maybe some of the studs came loose or they didn't torque the heads down right the first time??? Given the intake sat on these same heads for years with no prob before makes me suspicious. would appreciate input. This is a 489 with 188 heads, cam from Bob Madara ""

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

and another about this builder from the original poster

Took the engine back to the rebuilder. He said he would "take care of it" and have the boat back to me so I could go to Aquapalooza July 10. Didn't happen. Called me a week later to tell me I could pick it up, its running "perfect". Take the boat home, hook it up to the muffs, both batteries dead. I told him to please turn batt switch off because the fridge runs when the batt switch is on. So while charging batts, I look in the engine compartment and notice that the dist bolt washer is under the dist clamp and dist is loose as could be since the bolt is bottomed out, but can't clamp down. I also notice the clamp on the cannon harness plug is missing (its down in the bilge) and the TBIV module is just hanging by the harness on the bellhousing, ensuring that the first time I turn the steering wheel the PS ram would crunch it or at least disconnect the harness. So I fix that, then I try to start the boat. It starts, but the timing is 16 deg, turn it back to 10, but it barely will idle, sounds like its running on 6 cylinders again. Do a compress check...zero on 6, only 100 psi on 4, 170 on all others. Remove valve cover, exh valve on #6 is torqued down so hard, valve is hung open. Now #6 is 170 psi. Zero lash on #4 still only 100 psi, so not sure what is going on there. I watched him put the resurfaced head on with new gasket, so not sure if the one of the valves is burnt/not sealing on #4. I've missed 5 weekends in a row now, and I gave him a chance to "take care of the problem", now I'm inclined to just get in his face and get all/part of my money back and go somewhere else since each time I take it back it seems to get worse. Can I just drive it as is with one cyl a little low on comp and get through the summer and then take it somewhere else in the Fall, or could I be damaging the engine by running it this way. I'm not trying to win any races, just would like to get back on the lake and cruise around/pull kids on the tube etc. Tired of wrenching on this thing.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

i would not be suprised to see a spun bearing or two.

MASCH

I completely agree that those pressure are unacceptable. And after reading the previous post I can see why you are questioning the builder. I also agree that clearence should be around .0028-.0032 and 20/50 .Im just very suprised that if it was a clearence issue to begin with why did it take 30 hours to show up? And you are very correct about the eagle stuff not always being within tolerance. Im pretty sure he does have bearing issues but why not cut the filter first just to make sure.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

my guess is tight bearing clearance finally caused a main bearing to spin in its bore,causing the current low oil pressure issue.

Raylar

After reading your original threads and posts and your input and findings here as a professional marine engine builder I would advise you to get this engine out of the boat and get it to a GOOD marine engine builder and get it redone correctly!
End of Story!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

blue thunder

Ditto, thats some pretty shotty workmanship. I don't believe I'd let that guy work on my lawn mower.

AIR TIME

you should name the builder on here, if he did phuck up your motor. so know one else goes to him. and what dealership sent you to this guy??????