Hatch Lift Switch
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Las Vegas Nevada
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Hatch Lift Switch
I replaced my 3 position lift switch couple months ago be cause the old one fell apart. I was always having to help lift the hatch and the switch would time out.
After replacing the switch, the hatch would raise very well by itself. Now it is back to me helping it again.
I was told that I needed to install a relay.
Anybody have more info on this?
What kind of relay and how/where to install?
After replacing the switch, the hatch would raise very well by itself. Now it is back to me helping it again.
I was told that I needed to install a relay.
Anybody have more info on this?
What kind of relay and how/where to install?
#2
Here's something i made up a few years back. Its a negative trigger so if you get any shorts in the line between your dash and the relays it wont blow or fry anything. If you want to keep your switch as a positive trigger then instead of post 86 on the relay getting a 12v+ wire it would get a negative ground connection....
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-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
-Wally
Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy horsepower. And I've never seen a sad person hauling a$$!
#4
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iTrader: (4)
It's 2 basic relays together. You can get them at any auto store.
http://www.tristatetuners.com/forum/...ad.php?t=11349
#5
Offshoreonly Advertiser
Offshoreonly Advertiser
We have a hatch relay in stock that will cure your switch problem. It works by being the middle man between the switch, batteries, and the hatch lift. What could be happening is you are running to much power through your switches and it is killing them. With the relay, the switch will just turn the relay on. The hatch actuator will be basically ran from the batteries.
Give us a call and we can help it make more sense for you.
Hatch relay $55.00 and are in stock!
Eric
Give us a call and we can help it make more sense for you.
Hatch relay $55.00 and are in stock!
Eric
#7
Here's something i made up a few years back. Its a negative trigger so if you get any shorts in the line between your dash and the relays it wont blow or fry anything. If you want to keep your switch as a positive trigger then instead of post 86 on the relay getting a 12v+ wire it would get a negative ground connection....
Wally describes the option of going with a negative trigger via the dash switch. If I wire it this way, can I still use the existing DPDT switch in the dash? Is it simply a matter of disconnecting the power (+) lead going into that switch?