FIXX

iTrader: (2)

if you have a crossover and no water pump ot thermotat then the engine is going to condensater and creat moisture which mixs with the oil or you have a internal leak..

remove the hoses goung to the exhaust risers and manifolds..loop the hoses st the thermostat housing ,,take the hose off the sea water pump that supplys the water to the engine..after the pump that goes to the t-stat housing or cross over which ever you have..take your garden hose and stick it in the end and clamp it with a hose clamp..now slightly turn your HOSE ON TO PRESSUREISE THE ENGINE AND LISTEN FOR WATER DROPLETS IN THE ENGINE..oops hit caps..dont turn the water on all the way because it puts out almost 50 psi,just crack it to pressureise and turn it off..you may have to leave it cracked on a bit.....i have made up all sorts of gadgets to pressureise a engine with the garden hose i have one set yo with a pressure relief valve set to release at 15 psi,,also have block off plates for the intake manifold ports to pressureise the engine with the intake off..

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the replys everyone.

I have pulled the valve covers and water pressurized the engine to check for seepage past the head bolts. Nothing. While doing this I also had the plugs out and drain plug out. Water pressurized the engine while turning it over by hand for 10 mins and no water came out of spark plug holes or oil drain hose.

When milked oil was first noticed it was running 190* oil temps so I don't think condensation is the problem.

I am going to run it on the water with fresh oil Thurs to get the oil temps up to 200+ just to make sure what is coming out now is not just residual. If it still is milkshaking the oil, I'm going to pull the heads and likely engine.

Knot 4 Me

What did the plugs look like? Any chance something has changed to where it is now reverting a bit of water?

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

Any of the plugs look clean like as if it was brand new compared to the rest?

Rbesola

I had the same problem this summer.First i put a head gasket in. Still bad. Then i milled the head and put another gasket in. Still bad. Ended up being an internally cracked exh manifold. One of the pricey Merc/Gil ones.

Expensive Date

I know you said you have aluminum heads, but check around your valve guides.

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Actually after looking over them again, #4,#6 are much cleaner than the others with no tan visibile carbon burn on the porcelin.

I'm going to check the exhaust manifolds tomorrow before I pull the heads.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

sounds like your head gasket is starting to go,or it did already,if its a 502 its common to blow between the cylinders..never seen one mikl shake the engine..also water passeges go through the valve guides on iron heads also..

Ryan00TJ

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the replys everyone. Turned out to be bad Risers. I pulled the exhaust riser combo and connected water to it. Upon shining my light up the exhaust extension I noticed water driplets rolling down the inner exhaust portion of the riser. Confirmed with small puddles forming in the middle runners of the manifold

The 2,4,6,8 side manifold riser combo was the worst with two steady streams spraying into the area of where my welded extensions are at. This water was pooling in the center runners of the manifold and was pretty bad!!

It looks as if the risers are cracked letting the outer water jacket water into the inner exhaust portion.
They were 1990 era FastGlass/Imco Stainless risers with 22" extensions.

I installed the manifolds w/o the risers and ran the engine to do a couple flushes to confirm that was the problem and after two flushes the oil coming out was looking great. The 2nd flush I was able to get oil temp to 150* on the hose and oil came out just as good as when it went in.

I plan on going with a set of Stainless Marine Dry manifolds and risers in the spring.

Fenderjack

iTrader: (2)

Glad ya got it figured out.

John