Bearings - dirt or oil starvation - need expert opinions, please
01-10-2013, 07:22 PM
#72
I think I would go with the "H" for both mains and rods. I would stay away from the narrower "HN's". You shouldn't need those with the smaller radius's on that eagle crank. I would think the chamfer on the "H's" should provide plenty of clearance. I assume the "HN's" would be chamfered and narrower?
01-10-2013, 07:40 PM
#73
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Like I said earlier, you need the HN. The only H I can find are old stock and they are getting rare. The replacement bearing HN have no radius, they are just narrowed which reduced a lot of cost to produce the bearing for FM. I prefered the H because I like the extra crush the full width gives, but they cannot be had. I actually use acl as much as possible because they still run the radius. On a side note, I'll be interested to see how you accurately mic a bearing to anything better than a .001precision. That's gonna be a real trick.
01-10-2013, 11:55 PM
#76
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For what it's worth! Just a thought!
A friend of mine (really not me) was building a small block Chevy for a sand rail. He bought all good parts, and had the block all done up by a shop including glass bead blast to make it look good.
He assembles the motor very carefully making sure all clearances are right. Fires the motor in the shop and all sounds great.
He brings the buggy out to the dunes and leaves camp on the maiden voyage. The motor ran for maybe 10 minutes before it seized.
Turns out he did not wash out the block after the bead blast and neither did the guy that did the blast. He ran all the glass right through the motor and ruined everything in it.
Point being, if your block was sand blasted or bead blasted in some way, "was it totally clean before assembly"?
Even if it wasn't blasted, what was the history of the block? There's a lot of places for crap to hide.
I learned this back in the day with 1960 Ford Starliner. I blew up a rear end. When I put in the new third member I cleaned out the junk in the pumpkin housing only and not the axle tubes. Lost 3 more gear sets before I figured out what was going on. There was all kinds of metal in the axle tubes and when I would put it back together, all this junk would just wash into the gears and blam-O.
He assembles the motor very carefully making sure all clearances are right. Fires the motor in the shop and all sounds great.
He brings the buggy out to the dunes and leaves camp on the maiden voyage. The motor ran for maybe 10 minutes before it seized.
Turns out he did not wash out the block after the bead blast and neither did the guy that did the blast. He ran all the glass right through the motor and ruined everything in it.
Point being, if your block was sand blasted or bead blasted in some way, "was it totally clean before assembly"?
Even if it wasn't blasted, what was the history of the block? There's a lot of places for crap to hide.
I learned this back in the day with 1960 Ford Starliner. I blew up a rear end. When I put in the new third member I cleaned out the junk in the pumpkin housing only and not the axle tubes. Lost 3 more gear sets before I figured out what was going on. There was all kinds of metal in the axle tubes and when I would put it back together, all this junk would just wash into the gears and blam-O.
01-11-2013, 09:25 AM
#77
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01-14-2013, 06:17 AM
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this is a very good post,and i totally agree,if the oil is not flowing through the bearings,they wont live long.maybe the term thicker is incorrect,a 20-50 engine oil is 50 weight at 210 degrees,and 20 weight at 32 degrees.it is my opinion that multi weight oil in conjunction with a oil thermostat and properly sized oil cooler will lubricate better than a system that has no oil thermostat,this is important in areas that get colder in the nite and cause the oil to get cold.some people feel that they should run straight 40 or 50 weight oil in there engines,i disagree unless it gets pre warmed before running the engine.again,i am talking about marine engines,not drag race engines.
Remember, the thickest an oil is going to be is at startup unless the oils is serverly oxidized. It is all down hill from there.
Ken
