articfriends

iTrader: (1)

I have fought with belt slip for years on my procharged set-up, with belt rubber band tight you can get it to hold pretty well BUT it wears out tensioner exponentially faster and is hard on belts and still doesn't always make max boost. Two things I have saw in past few years (besides a cogged drive which I don't want as this is a pleasure boat not a race boat and I want belts to last for more than a few passes) is drilling the pulley on a rotary index table with hole breaking thru pulley surface slightly (Reichard does this) but I have been told that this too shreds belts quickly. A new thing I just saw was coating the pulley with tungsten, or carbonite- has anyone seen or used this yet:

http://www.carbiniteracing.com/coat/coatmine.php
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ProCharger-8...00944187617%26

KRAUSMOTORSPORTS

iTrader: (2)

Yes this stuff does do wonders. I come from a background of doing this and it does help. We use it on another forum. Svtperformance where belt slip is never uncommon. I myself run a reicherd pulley but Carbonite racing will not coat the reicherd pulleys. Possibly because of the drilling of pulleys for belt grip and temperature. I've contemplated doing to all my pulleys even on my N/A 454 build.

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

How long do belts last for you with the Reichard deal? I actually have a rotary index table and could easily do it myself on my mill BUT I have heard more about shredded belts than I am comfortable with as its a biotch to change blower belts on my boat (you almost have to unbolt procharger and tip it to get a new one on) and the size I run is only available from ATI for stupid money. I am more inclined to get the coating, do you use the Carbonite or the tungsten flame spray and who's the best place to get it done with? My boatmakes 13-14 psi of boost when everything is perfect and I run a 3.85 and 3.70 pulley and I'm turning my m3 sc at least 10% past its max rating which puts even more stress on the belt, when belt gets hot its real hard to get 10 psi out of it, sometimes even less so I am going to do something with the pulley, thanks, Smitty

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

years ago we use to use a guy by me in addison that made the belts out of some wicked material..ill check with him and se if he vam make you a belt..are you 12 rib? i know also if you add another pully close to the charger unit so the belt wraps around more of the pully helps out alot..akso another tensioner on the back side helps as well..i would also look into adding a support to the charger unit as well,,when it starts going into overdrive to ger higher boost i know the plate the charger is bolted to starts to pluu towards the crank..remember how the a4 compressor had a rear support on the older tbi engines to keep the ac compressor from flexing. i was going to try an copy that idea and incorporate it to the procharger.

MILD THUNDER

iTrader: (3)

My buddy who has them M4 prochargers......

Has the added idler pulley for more wrap around the pulley.....Friggin thing was tighter than a guitar string, with a new 12 rib gates fleetrunner belt. On the dyno this year, down on power. Also noticed down about 1.5psi of boost. He kept saying belt needs to be tighter. I was literally watching the bracket flex as he was cranking it down even more. Did another pull, got the power/boost back. Thing is CRAZY tight. I don't like it. On a small boat that wont be wot for very long, maybe it be ok. But in a 42 that might be held in high boost for a long period, I don't think things are gonna go well. Plus the friggin blower itself gets so friggin hot after just one pull. ???

I talked to the guys at boost power, they highly recommended he switched to a cog setup. He didn't want to, so we will see how this 12 rib works.

mike tkach

iTrader: (3)

with the belt needing to be this tight i dont think it is good for the crankshaft or the main bearings,also think it will cause premature wear on the bearings in the procharger unit.i also believe there is a lot of flexing in the bracketry for the procharger and that is not helping the belt problems.

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

What are you running the Reichard mod on and how are belts holding up? I can mod a pulley in my mill indexing rotary table just like they do but don't want to shred belts as they are a real challenge to change on my boat, Smitty

sbslinde

I used to do a lot of work with S/C applications on Ford powered vehicles. SVT and Roush to be specific. It sounds like those of you with belt slip issues should look into more belt wrap around the blower and crank pulleys and make sure the tensioner is sprung the correct way. I've had more than one design that would not change to the correct tensioner clocking because of cost and they fought with belts slipping and being thrown off for the history of the program.

Jeff

KRAUSMOTORSPORTS

iTrader: (2)

^^^^^this! Well said Carbonite coating is last resort unless you can run some type of snub idler to give your blower pulley more "contact" surface with out sacrificing belt tension.

GPM

Any chance you can run larger pulleys