Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

But air does promote rust and corrosion. I like pink.

seafordguy

I don't have stats, so what I do is take a huge tub and fill it with A/F, and a harbor freight sump pump hooked up to my fresh water flush fitting. Turn on Pump, fire up engine, wait until A/F comes out the back end and then cut off boat.

My buddy across the street does the same thing. Removes stats, borrows my sump pump fires up the boat and then pumps if full of A/F. Then in the spring, he throws a new stat in it, and is ready to rock.

bonesmalon

iTrader: (1)

Closed cooling for me...CMI stainless headers and the various heat-X's better not have any ferrous metals or Merc's got some 'splain'n to do.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

I have been fogging engines when i do my winterizing for years,,i also do the 2 stroke mix..I have never had any issues with any sensors being clogged..FYI...all merc efi engines route the pcv hose to the intake or the ones that i have worked on were routed to just under the flame arrestor which sucks in the oil film wrom the valve cover which turns into a oil film inside the intake and what not..

ps ai also drain all the blocks but if i cant get my fat ass in their then the tank works best for me...i also use a refractor to check what the antifreeze is good for freezing.my target number is -50 below..then i fog..

i also mix the stable into a gas can with a half a gallon of fuel..when you put stable in the fuel tank most of the stable is stuck in the hose..whenn you mix it with fuel first you know most of it is getting to the tank..

verbi69

The pink you are referring to is the -50 plumbing antifreeze?

keith2500hd

I mix fuel stabilizer/cleaner with 2cycle oil, only need about ounce of each in fuel filter, I go easy with fog oil. allow it to break up/atomize, older tech used to just dump in intake. hard to reach block drains(Baja's) put 1/4mnpt to barb fitting in block and run hose to front of engine, put 1/4 fnpt to barb fitting and blue drain plug fitting. the river has lots of sediment, makes it easy to flush out during season and to drain, sand/mud won't will freeze, antifreeze won't get in it. use rv antifreeze to stop corrosion.

boatman1011

I'm new and just getting rolling on this forum. Being from the Midwest this is a thread subject is on my mind right now. I found this on the web and bookmarked it to use for the past 2 seasons

(Refer to each manufacturers specific flushing procedure as indicated in the owners manual.) Drain seawater section of cooling system, as specified in the owners manual. This typically includes the exhaust manifolds and exhaust risers, both sides of the engine block , oil/power steering coolers , and circulating pump . Don’t just assume that when you pull a hose or remove a plug that everything will drain. It’s a good idea to take a piece of wire and stick it into the drain hole to make sure no scale or sediment is blocking the hole from allowing full drainage. Be careful with this as manufacturers WILL NOT cover freeze damage. Another good option is to run the engine up to temperature then switch your supplied cooling water over to a 50/50 propylene glycol mixture. Run the engine until you have 50/50 propylene glycol coming out of the exhaust passages. This not only protects the engine from freeze damage in the event that a portion of water did not get drained but this also prohibits corrosion to the internal passages of the cooling system. On models with Closed Cooling Systems follow the manufacturers directions to drain the sea water section of the cooling system as well as testing the coolant to ensure that it will withstand the lowest temperature expected during storage. Most manufacturers utilize the normal maximum glycol content 50/50 mixture which is capable of withstanding freezing down to -30F. In comparison the minimum glycol content is 10% which prevents freezing down to +26F.

Fill the fuel tank with fresh non-alcohol gasoline. Add a sufficient amount of gasoline stabilizer which is specified for marine engines and then run engine sufficiently to bring it up to normal operating temperature while allowing the treated/stabilized fuel to circulate through fuel system. Before moving ahead you must have some way of preventing the flow of fuel from the tank to the engine. This is typically done with an inline shut off valve. For EFI motors - In a small container mix a small amount of fuel and a couple of ounces of 2 cycle outboard oil. Remove and drain the water separating fuel filter, and fill with this fuel oil mixture. Re-install the water separating fuel filter. Start and run the engine at idle speed until the engine stops from due to fuel starvation from emptying the water/fuel filter. Remove and discard water separating fuel filter. Install a new filter. For Carbureted motors: Remove the flame arrestor and restart the engine. Operate the engine at approximately (1000-1500 RPM) while “Fogging” the internal surfaces of induction system and combustion chambers. This can be done by squirting a small amount (about 8 ounces) of SAE 20W engine oil into the carburetor bores. Run the engine while squirting this into the carburetor until you have used about 75% of the oil. At this point rapidly squirt the remaining 25% of the oil into the carburetor to stall the engine. Turn the ignition to the OFF position. Lubrication Clean flame arrestor and vent hoses. Change oil and oil filter. Lubricate all items as listed in the owners manual. Throttle and Shift Cables, Steering, Coupler, U-Joints, Transom, Gimbal, Propeller Shaft, etc.

314joey

iTrader: (1)

Do like we did, move to Florida and you never have to winterize again, solved that problem.

boatman1011

Ha. That's the best answer so far!!

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

good answer but you have to flush unless you have a fresh water river to go through before you put your boat on a lift..