454mag top end rebuild
#42
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Borgie, you joined here june of this year. I been on here almost 10 years, plus quite a bit of boating before that, and engines before that. I can tell you, that there ARENT many guys beating up 3/8 GM Truck rods in 38 Top guns, 42 Fountains, and 38 Scarabs. Tell me, who's running the 3/8 Truck rods to 5500RPM or better? Any examples?
#43
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That looks scary, I wonder what that felt/sounded like in the boat.
All, I'm not just going to bore and hone and call it a day. I will have the proper checks done that need to be done in order to know that I have good blocks to start with. I will be changing pistons due to boring. I won't be buying pro comp anything or none of that knock off crap. I will stay with what's proven. I'll be piecing this thing together over the winter so I'll decide on what brand/quality parts as the days go by. Where I may "skimp" is in reusing the current rods if they are worthy. My stock heads are for sale locally so If they go then I'll be getting new heads. If I still have them come early next year then I'll reconsider my options.
MT - oil coolers have already been purchased. 3x16 for the port motor and same but added PS cooler for the stb motor. The stock 5/8 lines are big enough but will upgrade the fittings. My last build I used 5/8 pushlock hose and fittings due to relocating the oil filter and it worked out well. I may do the same for this build. I need to incorporate some oil tstats so will be adding some additional plumbing.
All, please, no need to comment on whether pushlock is "ok" or not. It's been used and proven so not wanting to start another pissing contest on that front.
All, I'm not just going to bore and hone and call it a day. I will have the proper checks done that need to be done in order to know that I have good blocks to start with. I will be changing pistons due to boring. I won't be buying pro comp anything or none of that knock off crap. I will stay with what's proven. I'll be piecing this thing together over the winter so I'll decide on what brand/quality parts as the days go by. Where I may "skimp" is in reusing the current rods if they are worthy. My stock heads are for sale locally so If they go then I'll be getting new heads. If I still have them come early next year then I'll reconsider my options.
MT - oil coolers have already been purchased. 3x16 for the port motor and same but added PS cooler for the stb motor. The stock 5/8 lines are big enough but will upgrade the fittings. My last build I used 5/8 pushlock hose and fittings due to relocating the oil filter and it worked out well. I may do the same for this build. I need to incorporate some oil tstats so will be adding some additional plumbing.
All, please, no need to comment on whether pushlock is "ok" or not. It's been used and proven so not wanting to start another pissing contest on that front.
#44
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Also, taking back the comments about the heads. I'll will have to make a decision on whether new heads or not when I decide on buying the pistions so I have a good combo and static compression. Just know that I'm not "piecing" like I said in previous post, these motors together blindly. It will be done with good components.
Thank you all for your advice and comments so far. Some people use the terms "budget build" to represent knock off parts and cutting coners everywhere possible. I consider them meaning a good reliable build that will last.
Thank you all for your advice and comments so far. Some people use the terms "budget build" to represent knock off parts and cutting coners everywhere possible. I consider them meaning a good reliable build that will last.
#45
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Didn't know this was a popularity contest. Comparing a 800hp blown fountain build to a 500hp(maybe) N/A build?! Doesn't get more apples & oranges than that. Not everyone here is loaded. And there are quite a few "budget" builds that have shown what's possible. To each their own. I never implied I was an Internet expert. Didn't know hours of research made you an accomplished engine builder. Now I know!
You really are something man. Two days ago you were pm'ing me about what main bolts you should run, and if your stock GM oil pans would be suffice in your build, and how you want to run a high volume pump with it, and which block you should use, etc. . You were trying to use standard ARP main bolts with the stock windage tray. I suppose that would work. Maybe you could epoxy some studs on the bolt head to bolt the windage tray on. I went out of my way to look up the correct part # for the GM bolts you need. Nice.
And here you are, on several threads, pretty much arguing, and disagreeing, and twisting around everything I say. Where the hell are the videos of your stroker 496 you been building all year?? Any dyno sheets? You've talked about how bad a$$ your dart 275 ovals are, and two months ago you were installing a set of gm vortec heads on the engine. Your quick to call out how the "marine" engine builders around here overbuild and overcharge, and basically calling me a dumb a$$ for what ive chosen to do as far as machine work, etc.
I tell ya what. Good luck with your 496 stroker build. Don't bother PM'ing me, Mike Tkach, with your engine questions. Its proven you already have all the answers.
#46
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That looks scary, I wonder what that felt/sounded like in the boat.
All, I'm not just going to bore and hone and call it a day. I will have the proper checks done that need to be done in order to know that I have good blocks to start with. I will be changing pistons due to boring. I won't be buying pro comp anything or none of that knock off crap. I will stay with what's proven. I'll be piecing this thing together over the winter so I'll decide on what brand/quality parts as the days go by. Where I may "skimp" is in reusing the current rods if they are worthy. My stock heads are for sale locally so If they go then I'll be getting new heads. If I still have them come early next year then I'll reconsider my options.
MT - oil coolers have already been purchased. 3x16 for the port motor and same but added PS cooler for the stb motor. The stock 5/8 lines are big enough but will upgrade the fittings. My last build I used 5/8 pushlock hose and fittings due to relocating the oil filter and it worked out well. I may do the same for this build. I need to incorporate some oil tstats so will be adding some additional plumbing.
All, please, no need to comment on whether pushlock is "ok" or not. It's been used and proven so not wanting to start another pissing contest on that front.
All, I'm not just going to bore and hone and call it a day. I will have the proper checks done that need to be done in order to know that I have good blocks to start with. I will be changing pistons due to boring. I won't be buying pro comp anything or none of that knock off crap. I will stay with what's proven. I'll be piecing this thing together over the winter so I'll decide on what brand/quality parts as the days go by. Where I may "skimp" is in reusing the current rods if they are worthy. My stock heads are for sale locally so If they go then I'll be getting new heads. If I still have them come early next year then I'll reconsider my options.
MT - oil coolers have already been purchased. 3x16 for the port motor and same but added PS cooler for the stb motor. The stock 5/8 lines are big enough but will upgrade the fittings. My last build I used 5/8 pushlock hose and fittings due to relocating the oil filter and it worked out well. I may do the same for this build. I need to incorporate some oil tstats so will be adding some additional plumbing.
All, please, no need to comment on whether pushlock is "ok" or not. It's been used and proven so not wanting to start another pissing contest on that front.
#47
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I can see why all the respected engine builders stopped posting here on oso. The floor is yours borgie. I'm gonna go ice my a$$ and read some car craft builds . See how far I can stretch those 3/8 rods . Maybe swing by the race shop and tell them guys they been wasting their time and money, when all they need is to go to pick and pull and get some rods from a 76-00 suburban with a big block.
#48
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Baker did not touch the 300 hour short blocks other than to slightly notch the pistons due to the cam used. Brodix II aluminum heads, roller cams, WP single-plane intake, Nickerson 850 Holley's, MSD ignition, CMI E-tops. The top end parts are too big for a 454 but my buddy had 540's in mind down the road and figured if he could get a couple seasons out of the stock 454's that would space out the strain on the wallet. I teased him all the time about having ticking time bombs in the bilge. He didn't baby the motors but also was smart enough to know you couldn't leave the throttles in the kitchen all day long and not expect to snap a crank or put a rod out the pan. We were both amazed that 5 seasons later and 500 hours total on the short blocks they were still going strong. The block that hydrolocked was sleeved and they are now being made into 496's.