Has anybody run the Crower offset trunion rockers with longer than stock valves?
02-05-2014, 08:04 AM
#33
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I have also read that pushing heavy weight 50wt oil, especially when it is cold, might not be such a good idea for the bearings, not to mention the fact that you are putting a lot of load on the distributor gear and using up power to turn it.
What kind of 30wt oil are you running? Full synthetic? Wondering what your oil temps and pressures are running at easy cruise, idle, and after an extended hard run. What are your bearing clearances? I'm thinking about running something lighter myself, but probably closer to 40wt, maybe closer to 15W40 or 20W40 if I can find it.
What kind of 30wt oil are you running? Full synthetic? Wondering what your oil temps and pressures are running at easy cruise, idle, and after an extended hard run. What are your bearing clearances? I'm thinking about running something lighter myself, but probably closer to 40wt, maybe closer to 15W40 or 20W40 if I can find it.
02-05-2014, 10:02 AM
#35
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I have also read that pushing heavy weight 50wt oil, especially when it is cold, might not be such a good idea for the bearings, not to mention the fact that you are putting a lot of load on the distributor gear and using up power to turn it.
What kind of 30wt oil are you running? Full synthetic? Wondering what your oil temps and pressures are running at easy cruise, idle, and after an extended hard run. What are your bearing clearances? I'm thinking about running something lighter myself, but probably closer to 40wt, maybe closer to 15W40 or 20W40 if I can find it.
What kind of 30wt oil are you running? Full synthetic? Wondering what your oil temps and pressures are running at easy cruise, idle, and after an extended hard run. What are your bearing clearances? I'm thinking about running something lighter myself, but probably closer to 40wt, maybe closer to 15W40 or 20W40 if I can find it.
Morel includes a note with their higher end lifters (I have the HIGH RPM) if used with straight 50weight the warranty is void. Just too thick to flow properly at start up , the way Bob M. explained it to me a air pocked forms in the lifter with the thick, cold oil.
After extensive reading on Bobs the oil guy I`ll be running synthetic 5W40 from now on.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rote...1-Gal/14958681
Last edited by ICDEDPPL; 02-05-2014 at 10:51 AM.
02-05-2014, 10:15 AM
#36
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It's all good man. I'm not sure what number lifters I have but they aren't the standard ones. They are high rpm and look totally different from any other lifter I've seen b4. I know guys that will put a .005 feeler between the valve tip / rocker arm and crank the adjuster until it bottoms out... Just the way some people do it is it right is wrong? I don't know?
I do wonder though how much oil viscosity affects the lifters because the do recommend no more than 40wt...
I do wonder though how much oil viscosity affects the lifters because the do recommend no more than 40wt...
The High RPM series. These have the .750 wheel. Recommended oil no thicker than 5w40. Operation to 7200RPM continuous. Recommended spring pressures of 200-225 at the seat, 500-575 open. 8620 alloy bar stock body and hardened.
The Race Endurance series (like my 4603). Also .750 wheel. No oil stipulation. Operation to 6600RPM continuous. Recommended spring pressures 150-160 at the seat. 8620 alloy bar stock body and case hardened.
Street lifter. This lifter has the wheel enclosed/shrouded by the lifter body. Visually it looks very different than the ones above. I was told this lifter is more or less a replacement stock type lifter. And shouldn't be used on a camshaft with more than around 230* of duration, and about 130-140lbs on the seat. Not only is the structure unable to continuously handle the loads, the internal valving isn't either.
This is just some info ive gathered over the past couple years regarding these popular lifters from various sources. It may or may not be 100% accurate.
02-05-2014, 05:45 PM
#37
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Budman, I just took a quick look at your post. Using the Miller Mid Lift method will drive you crazy. First of all; the lift on the cam is not excessive from what you have. Using a longer valve will change things but not to the point you probably think you have. Trying to keep the pattern narrow and centered and not getting over 1/3 of the valve dia is the process to take. Using an adjustable checking push rod is the best way, don't get all wrapped up in the push rod length, by what you think it should be just by valve length. You just want to make sure you do not run out of thread engagement on the stud with the nut.
You can use a shaft mounted rocker arm, most are already set for the geometry in accordance with the valve length. If not the stands are a different style, say like Jesel Sportsman; A/B/C stands, moving the pivot point of the rocker in or out from the center position, the stand height is also different and that can be shimmed also. This is done on the bench with checking springs installed and a dial indicator, so you are arching the lift of the cam.
You can be slightly off-center, just so you are not making a wide contact path. Guessing; you should have about .080 contact area. From what I see; it looks like you got it.
You can use a shaft mounted rocker arm, most are already set for the geometry in accordance with the valve length. If not the stands are a different style, say like Jesel Sportsman; A/B/C stands, moving the pivot point of the rocker in or out from the center position, the stand height is also different and that can be shimmed also. This is done on the bench with checking springs installed and a dial indicator, so you are arching the lift of the cam.
You can be slightly off-center, just so you are not making a wide contact path. Guessing; you should have about .080 contact area. From what I see; it looks like you got it.
02-05-2014, 09:34 PM
#39
Budman, I just took a quick look at your post. Using the Miller Mid Lift method will drive you crazy. First of all; the lift on the cam is not excessive from what you have. Using a longer valve will change things but not to the point you probably think you have. Trying to keep the pattern narrow and centered and not getting over 1/3 of the valve dia is the process to take. Using an adjustable checking push rod is the best way, don't get all wrapped up in the push rod length, by what you think it should be just by valve length. You just want to make sure you do not run out of thread engagement on the stud with the nut.
You can use a shaft mounted rocker arm, most are already set for the geometry in accordance with the valve length. If not the stands are a different style, say like Jesel Sportsman; A/B/C stands, moving the pivot point of the rocker in or out from the center position, the stand height is also different and that can be shimmed also. This is done on the bench with checking springs installed and a dial indicator, so you are arching the lift of the cam.
You can be slightly off-center, just so you are not making a wide contact path. Guessing; you should have about .080 contact area. From what I see; it looks like you got it.
You can use a shaft mounted rocker arm, most are already set for the geometry in accordance with the valve length. If not the stands are a different style, say like Jesel Sportsman; A/B/C stands, moving the pivot point of the rocker in or out from the center position, the stand height is also different and that can be shimmed also. This is done on the bench with checking springs installed and a dial indicator, so you are arching the lift of the cam.
You can be slightly off-center, just so you are not making a wide contact path. Guessing; you should have about .080 contact area. From what I see; it looks like you got it.
